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ShedBoy

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Messed about with some foam and ali today and got a engine block for my troubles. Engine is based on a plan I have in a reprinted book from 1933. 25mm bore and stroke.
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Do something with it next week. Back to work tomorrow :'(

Brock
 
Any more info on this engine? Is it double acting? Vertical... Horizontal?

Chuck
 
Chuck the engine is from a book I bought called unusual projects from the first year of model craftsmen magazine 1933.
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This is what it looks like. It is a single acting high speed marine engine. I am making a metric version with a few changes. The block is going to be square shaped (simple) and I will be using bearing for mains. I wanted to cast something. When I go home I will cast a sump and valve chest. The valve chest will hopefully be bronze or brass.

Brock
 
The monolithic block has been sitting at my computer looking very boring so I had a go at making another more to the picture.
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This was the second go at it the first had some issues, this one may need a touch up with some weld but it should be okay :-\.
For all the foam building check out this thread called lost foam. The monolith is still looking at me but now has a companion. May be another engine in it
Brock
 
Got some shed time today :) First up was fix that casting error
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Hit it with the die grinder and roughed it up a bit
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I am getting better with the tig
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Flycut the top
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Same on the bottom.
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Faced the sump in the 4 jaw as it was easier to grab solid
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Bolt together
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Two become one
Brock
 
Cleaned up the sides
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The rear end was clean in the 4 jaw on the lathe. The front had to be done in the mill because the valve drive mount is in the way. Next job was to remove the centre so the crank has somewhere to spin. If I done this again I would dig out the foam to save some time.
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Set up for angled sides.
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One side done, one to go.
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Done. Time for the sump while the vice is set up.
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First side.
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How i set it level with the jaws. The maget hold the jaws and slide as you tighten. One less hand required ;)
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After finishing the bottom I thoght I would take advantage of my sloping casting and put a drain groove in it. I just pulled the deeper end up a couple of mm.
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Then cut the groove.
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Said groove.
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I think they look okay 8)
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Back with the monolith near the mouse. Back to work for a week tomorrow :(
Thanx for looking in.
Brock

 
I see that you have the same "Tilt-a-Whirl" vice that I have. They are not a real great vice for accuracy, but they sure are versatile!!!----Brian
 
They must of had a world wide special as I have 1 as well ;D
Pete
 
I find the vice only as accurate as the setup applied. It certainly is solid when locked down. I need one a bit smaller though as this one weighs about 25kg.
Brock
 
Got some more done on this one.
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Serious overhang figured it would be okay as it is not continuous all the way.
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Forgot to take a finished pic but it came out fine.
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Started on some bearing carriers.
Brock
 
Got the bearing carriers done nearly just need to drill some holes and clean up the outside faces
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Front in
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Some precision ground bar to check alignment so far so good. Hope it spins okay once bolted down :-\
More later
Brock
 
Decided to take a break from bearings for a bit a started on the crank. The plan said CRS flat bar or round and doesn't mention any hardening, I decided on flat but I didn't have 1/2" thick only 10mm. The journals are all 8mm so I guess it should do. This is my first go at turning between centres so I quicly whipped up a drive pin to go in the chuck mount holes.
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Does the trick :)
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Marking out
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Removed a heap with the mill
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Ready for the dreaded intermediate cuts. Found a seat to go in front of the lathe. Was not looking forward to this bit.
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Overhang :-\
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Some time later one is done.
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This is where it sits at the moment, just need to polish it to final size then start on the rest. I think it is going okay so far.
Brock
 
Got some more time on the crank this arvo. Really sick of intermitent cutting.
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Big ends done, set up for mains
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I am nearly happy
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Now just need to fit it to the other bit. I am happy with my first attempt at turning a crank but it takes alot of patience. Don't know how I would go at something with more throws. Thanks for looking in.
Brock
 
Very interesting post Brock. I never thought that aluminum castings that ugly on the outside could be cleaned up into decent engine parts. Don't take that as a put down in any way, please. My previous experience with aluminum casting was with Volkswagen of Canada, where we used H13 steel die-casting molds for our aluminum wheels, and they were always very clean appearing fresh out of the molds, with no visible porosity or rough surfave finih. They then went directly to the big CNC lathes that cleaned off about 2mm of material and left beautiful sparkling wheels, which went directly for clear powder coating. My education continues------Brian
 
No offence taken Brian :) I am new to casting but enjoying the journey. I call it a 5metre casting, it looks good at that distance :big: The picture shows up with alot of shadows which don't help. I am having fun which is what matters to me. The sump does have some porosity but I think the min bearing carrier sorted it.
Brock
 
Hi Brock
If u push ugly hard enougth, it becomes beautiful :big:
nice job Mate
Pete
 
Beauty is just a light switch away :big:
Question for the masses, is bronze okay for making conrods?

Brock
 
metalmad said:
Hi Brock
If u push ugly hard enougth, it becomes beautiful :big:
nice job Mate
Pete

Except for "Nuff Nuff" ;D (If you served in the RAN during the 50's-60's - you know who I mean)

Best Regards
Bob
 
It's nice to see other guys casting come out as rough as mine do. but hey at least we didn't pay top dollar for them and if you mess that one up there's plenty more in the sand box were that came from. cant wait to see it all finished. olllllo
 

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