Tiny Inline 4 Cylinder IC

[hobby]

Kel,

Wow, that is very, very nice work,
it takes patience to do work like that, and your moving along so fast at it,
A very enjoyable thread for inspiration on learning how to machine the details that go into a build.

Keep up the great work.

 

[NickG]

Wow, nice project and great engine block Kel :bow: you are certainly rattling these projects out at high rate and high quality!

Nick

 

[kcmillin]

Thank you everyone for your reply's, and your input. I got the CI yesterday and practiced with the end of it. I does indeed cut nice, and the swarf is kinda strange, like little pebbles of iron. Almost like cutting brass or bronze. I will use the cheap newspaper method to protect the lathe.

Kel

 

[kcmillin]

I have been working on the heads over the past few days.

I am making it like the Tiny by using a completely solid brass head.

I started with a 3/8 x 1.414 x 3.5" block.

Here is what I am trying to make

There Is alot of holes so I summed them up on a dry erase board

Drilling and countersink for the head bolts.

The six valve cover screw holes.

And the valve and pushrod holes.

I made a tiny spot where the spark plug goes, this is so I can line it up when I need to drill the funny angles.

Okay, so here is the setup for drilling the spark plug holes. There is a 30 degree angle on the X and a 7 degree angle on the Y.

Then I flipped the head around to drill the thread holes for the spark plug. I used a 1/8" end mill to locate the holes.

Countersink with an endmill to create a flat spot.

Drilling the exhaust ports.

The intake ports line up under the surface of the head. So I had to mill a .055" deep slot before drilling the holes.

I visually lined up the holes.

Here you can see where the holes meet.

Next up was to make the rocker arm holder thingy's.
I used a dial indicator instead of a vice stop to drll the cross holes

Then using an 1/8" end mill I profiled the parts.

Here they are.

And a last minute design change.

And that Is how I made the head

Thanks for looking.

Kel

 

[rudydubya]

Great work, Kel. And great documentary photos. I learn so much from builds like yours. Looking forward to the rest of your project.

Regards,
Rudy

 

[hobby]

Very Nice accuracy,
and all around good visual documentation,
with the pictures taken close up.

Great looking machined parts.

 

[Jack B]

Hi Kel: That is a spectacular project. Your machining is top of the line. Your photography is also first rate. I am enjoying your build. Jack B

 

[kustomkb]

Great looking head Kel!

That sure is going to be a good looking engine.

 

[NickG]

This does look fantastic Kel - way too bloomin complicated for me but your ports and stuff have turned out spot on.
:bow:
Nick

 

[tel]

Very impressive indeed! Made my head hurt just looking at the pics.

 

[Omnimill]

This does look fantastic Kel - way too bloomin complicated for me but your ports and stuff have turned out spot on.
:bow:
Nick

Me too! Fantastic build Kel, another must watch series.

Vic.

 

[krv3000]

HI I can not wate to see this completed brill work :bow: regards bob

 

[Lakc]

Flipping the part over a dozen times, multiple angles to the drilling, it must be a cylinder head your working on. Brings back memories.

 

[putputman]

Looks great!! That is really going to get crowded when you get all those push rods and linkage in there.

Are you going to make your own distributor?

 

[kcmillin]

Thanks Rudy, Pat, Hobs, Jack, Kevin, Nick, Tel, Vic, Bob, Jeff, and Arv. WOW!

Thank you all for the kind comments, it really keeps me going on the projects, and the quality goes up when so many people are watching. These pictures are a far cry from when I started with HMEM. All I had were blurry cell phone pictures, and I am now just learning the picture taking part of the new cam.

I gotta say I think I lost about a million hairs scratching my head, I did not want to make the spark plugs a compound angle, but the exhaust ports were just to darn close to the plug holes, so I had to incorporate the 7 degree offset in the Y.

Arv, yes I am going to make the distributer. I will have an aluminum flywheel disk with two magnets to "Time" the engine, and the distributer, run off the cam, will only "Distribute" the spark. Still scratchin the old noggin though, I don't want it to be to big. I was hoping to keep the OD of the distributer below 7/8, but 3/4 would be better.

How small can I make the thing before the spark starts jumping around willie nillie?

Kel

 

[cfellows]

Impressive build, Kel. Lotta work figuring the position of everything on those little multicylinder engines. Looking good.

Chuck

 

[Lakc]

How small can I make the thing before the spark starts jumping around willie nillie?

Thats where the real fun begins.

For DC voltage, its close to 900v per ten thousandth of an inch, or 3000v per mm, higher under pressure like inside the cylinder. If you add a sharp edge it gets lower.

One trouble is that the higher the rpm, the more DC voltage is acting like AC voltage. Then it becomes a lot easier to jump any gap.

I suggest making it as small as you dare, try doubling (rotor gap+plug gap) and dont fall in love with it you may have to make it a bit bigger.

 

[kcmillin]

Chuck, You can say that again :big:

Jeff, thank you for your advice on the distributer. I am about 8 times more than the "Plug gap+rotor Gap" formula. Does that mean I can make it smaller?

Kel

 

[kcmillin]

Okay, I got some more work done the last couple nights. Working on the valves.

I started With a 3/16" peice of drill rod. I stuck it out past the chuck about 1 inch.

I cut it down to plus .001 in about .2" at a time. I stepped it to decrease deflection.

I then stepped down the area above the valve seat to increase air flow.

Each valve was finished with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. It took me about 12 minutes to get each valve to this point.

I got this Poland indicating micrometer of Ebay for $30USA. It was a priceless tool to have when making many parts to close tolerances.

I simply cut each valve to the same setting on the dial, then finished with sandpaper and only using the indicating micrometer to measure it. I would highly recommend an indicating micrometer if doing any repetitive procedures.

I then made a brass collet to hold the valve.

I first cut the keeper slot with a cutoff blade.

Then I setup the lath to a 45 degree angle using some angle blocks, magnets, and a dial indicator.

I first cut the valve seat cutter blank.

Then the valves.

Here they are.

Then I cut the valve seat cutter.

here it is in use.

The valve seats.

I sill need to lap the valves. I used auto store lapping compund.

using a drill chuck I held the valve for lapping.

I decided to keep them all in their respective places after lapping.

Then I taped the head to protect the valve seats and head surface.

I used a vacuum gauge to test the valve seat. This is actually testing the valve seat and the valve guide for leaks.

I think this is good enough. You tell Me.
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Thats all for now. Time do design the valve rocker arms.

Kel

 

[Lakc]

I am about 8 times more than the "Plug gap+rotor Gap" formula. Does that mean I can make it smaller?

Kel,
I have only gone at this conceptually so far, I have no practical experiance to back it up yet. As there are a lot of factors like atmospheric pressure, and how sharp an edge is between potential voltages, its anybodies guess. The good thing is the smaller you make it, the less material gets wasted if it doesnt work.