Tiny I.C. Engine

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Well here's the latest update. I have both valves made an lapped into the head. I made one keeper for the exhaust. My valve stems are .062 so the notch for my keeper is .047 diameter. I made the rocker post with my twist on the design and I made my rocker arm. Although the pushrod is adjustable I have an 0-80 adjuster screw on the tip of the rocker. I should be able to finish up the other keeper and the springs tomorrow. That will finish up the head.
A special thanks goes out to Gail for the spring wire he so generously supplied. I got it in today's mail.
I won't get any more done till Monday as my buddies and I are off dirt biking over the weekend. The weather is supposed to be in the low 80's. I'll take it while I can.
George

TINY HEAD 5.jpg


TINY HEAD 6.jpg


TINY HEAD 7.jpg
 
Brilliant stuff there George.

I haven't studied the drawings properly for this yet but does anybody think there is scope to add a governor to flywheel and make it hit & miss?

Nick
 
Very nice George. I think relocating the spark plug as you did is a good idea. In all fairness however, the only time I had an arc over to the rocker post was when the plug was fouled with raw fuel in a flooded condition. Naphtha in a much better insulator than air and I was using a surface discharge plug which compounded the problem. It was not all bad either. It gave me a visible and audible indication that I was flooded. After I learned how to adjust the engine, modified the plug and made the fuel mixer less sensitive there was no more problem. Glad you are able to make use of the wire. I still have a 1/2 mile to a mile of each size here. A one pound coil goes a long way.

Nick: I have done a couple of back of the envelope sketches of a Hit-n-Miss setup. Most practical so far seems to be to use the flywheel on the far side from the cam and put a catch on the cam follower actuated by linkage coming across from the far side. I lso wanted to put an over ride on it so it could be operated in a non H-n-M conventional mode. No drawings, just sketches, but I think it can be done without too much grief.

Out of town house guest arriving Monday for a week, so nothing will be done next week.

Gail in NM


Gail in NM
 
Gail,

Thanks for the info, think I will have a closer look at the drawing tonight to see exactly what you mean. Do you think hit n miss would be effective visually pleasing on an engine this small though? Will the flywheels be sufficiently heavy to provide a few revolutions coasting? I can imagine it hitting a lot with not much time between.

Nick
 
GailInNM said:
Very nice George. I think relocating the spark plug as you did is a good idea. In all fairness however, the only time I had an arc over to the rocker post was when the plug was fouled with raw fuel in a flooded condition. Naphtha in a much better insulator than air and I was using a surface discharge plug which compounded the problem. It was not all bad either. It gave me a visible and audible indication that I was flooded. After I learned how to adjust the engine, modified the plug and made the fuel mixer less sensitive there was no more problem. Glad you are able to make use of the wire. I still have a 1/2 mile to a mile of each size here. A one pound coil goes a long way.

....

Gail in NM

Gail, how did you make the fuel mixer less sensitive? Chuck
 
Nick,
I think it will work quite well. When running my TINY at about 2000 rpm, I held the exhaust valve open with my thumb. I am guessing that it took about 10 to 15 revolutions for it to slow down to a point it would still restart when thumb was removed. This would improve if the mixture was leaned out more. There is lots of flywheel mass on this engine as the Tiny is such a small displacement.

If a little bit of thought is put into the governor arm pivot point VS angle and the spring attachment point, the some hysteresis could be introduced into it to get a higher than normal start hitting to start missing range. If you went too far on this however it would have to hit several times to get back up to RPM so it could start coasting. Would take some playing to get the most pleasing action.

Gail in NM
 
Chuck,
I went through my stock of #10 Sharps sewing needles and found one that measured 0.0195. A #10 is nominal at 0.018 but mine are all oversize. The drilled out the spraybar opening for the needle to 0.020 so the needle would just fit in it. It wont quite shut off the fuel, but with the long taper the small annular opening can be adjusted by withdrawing the needle very precisely for small fuel flows. Fuel flow is small on TINY. I am now up to 40 minutes of run time on 5 cc of fuel with the engine running at about 1800 rpm. I keep reducing the oil in the fuel mix and am now running 0.2 percent which is 1ml to 500ml naphtha. Still plenty of oil collected on the o-ring so it can probably be reduced further. At 40min/5ml that would mean that it should run 500 hours on a gallon of Coleman fuel.

I do want to try Jerry Howell's mixture of 30 percent naphtha to 70 percent methanol alcohol + oil. He claimed it ran much cleaner than straight naphtha and the naphtha addition to the alcohol made ignition easier and more reliable.

Gail in NM
 
Gail,

thanks for the reply, good point that the flywheel intertia is quite high compared with the rest of the engine and making some sort of setup that you can play tunes with would be a good idea.

I have 3 projects I really should complete before this but I'd say 2 of them I'm over 50% of the way and am actually working on those so it shouldn't be long. Maybe the turn of the year!

Nick
 
Hi everyone,
Here's the latest update to my 'Tiny'. I have Firefox so I haven't posted in awhile. I switched over to IE to get on line.
I have the crankcase finished except for final polishing, I'll get to that when I tear everything apart. I made my head competely round and made the crankcase match. I put and angle on the sides of the water hopper and radiused all the corners. I lowered the rail that the main bearings sit in.
I used round stock for the crank so I left counterweights on it. As fast as this thing runs it might help the balance a little.
I found out that there is very little clearance between the rod an cylinder sleeve so I had to slightly radius the edges of the rod at the point where it's closest to the sleeve.
Everything is a little oily because I was running it in on the lathe.
I have the flywheels roughed out and they just need the lightening holes and set screw holes to finish them up.
This is a fairly easy project and I would encourage anyone thinking about getting into and IC engine to give this one a try. You could even scale it up a little if it's too small for your taste.
gbritnell

TINY CRKCASE 1.jpg


TINY CRKCASE 2.jpg


TINY CRKCASE 3.jpg


TINY CRKCASE 4.jpg
 
I had a request for the revised spark plug hole that I put in my head. I made up a drawing in Autocad and saved it as a PDF file. I am posting it here for anyone who might like to use it. I am going to use a 6-32 plug in my engine. You can still use a 10-32 plug with this configuration but you will just have to make the counterbore large enough to fit that plug.
britnell

View attachment TINY HEAD PLUG REVISION.pdf
 
Nice work, George. Is the crankcase made out of steel?

Chuck
 
Hi Chuck,
No, the crankcase is made from 6061 aluminum. I have just finished up the flywheels except for final finishing and polishing. I made them from 12L steel.
George

TINY ENG 1.jpg


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TINY ENG 3.jpg
 
Nice work on the flywheels, too. Did you cut those by hand or did you use CNC? What size milling cutter did you use?

Chuck
 
It looks very nice, George. I am looking forward to watching it run.

I had an out of town house guest here for the last week. He is a model engineer, but not normally into IC engines. He and I have worked on joint projects from time to time for many years and get together once or twice a year for a week of toy building. He does not do much machining, but is a wizard with a file and sheet metal. So, while he was here I machined parts for our current project for a few days and he became intrigued with TINY. He played with it for hours and I would occasionally make up a new part for it to try and he would install it and test run. This is a summary of some of the findings plus a little bit of things after he left.

I had been running on naphtha plus 5 percent WD40. We continued with this mix for the first day. On a whim, we mixed up regular gasoline with 5 percent WD40. The first thing noticed was that starting was much easier. Once fuel had filled the fuel line, one revolution with finger over the air intake to choke it and starting routinely became one twist of the hand starting knob. With With naphtha 4 to 5 twists were the norm. The needle valve also became less sensitive. On naphtha full rich to lean was a half turn. On gasoline it went to 3/4 turn. In addition the cylinder fin temperature dropped about 15 degrees. Fuel consumption dropped a little bit from about 7 minutes per ml on naphtha to 6 minutes on gasoline.
The biggest down side is the smell of gasoline, but the improvement in performance makes this OK for me.

Looking for further improvement on ease of adjustment, a series of mixer bodies was made up, identical except for the bore. I had been running with the 0.093 hole as specified by Arv. Tubes were tried with holes from 0.073 to 0.098. Performance was definitely degraded at each end of the range, with a slight improvement with 0.082 and 0.086 holes. I settled on a 0.082 hole. All these tests were run on gasoline. Before anyone decides that this is gospel truth for Tiny, keep in mind that I live at almost 6000 feet of elevation and mixers act different up here than at low elevations.

Early in our playing, we did a sustained wide open throttle test. It cooked the Viton o-ring in about 20 minutes. The cylinder fin temperature was reading about 165-170 degrees F as measured with an IR thermometer.
We repeated the test now that the cylinder fin temperatures were lower, about 150-155 deg F. It cooked the o-ring in about 20 minutes the same as before. The o-ring showed no sign of wear in either test, but became hard and would not seal. On low speed running the o-ring holds up fine.

That's about the point we were at when Jim packed up and hit the road for a 10 hour drive home. All told, we used about 30 ml of naphtha based fuel and 120 ml of gasoline based fuel through TINY. That's about 14 to 15 hours of running bringing the total at that time to about 45 hours running time on TINY. Except for the first 10 or so hours using a PTFE insulated plug, a Corian insulated plug has been used. Thanks to George for getting me to try it is this small a size. Still looks good and works well. I have pulled it a couple of times for inspection and other than cleaning off the oil and soot build up from running rich no maintenance has been needed on it. It was not needed then, but since it was out it was cleaned. I used a 0.020 gap most of the time, but increased it to 0.025 the last time I had it out.

The saga continues with what has been done since Jim left. That's for another post.

Gail in NM



 
Hi Chuck,
Nope, just plain old milling and hand work. I drilled the upper corners with a .125 drill and the base of the spokes with a .187 drill. The tangent angle came out to just under 2*. I went in with a .125 endmill and cut the remaining stock out. I debated about putting a full radius on the spokes but I'll leave that for another day.
I got them drilled and tapped this afternoon so they're finished.
I had roughed out some hob type cutters awhile back, one 36 DP, one 42 DP and one 48 DP. I fluted them, cleaned up the burrs and hardened them so that I could cut the gears for 'Tiny' and have the others finished for the transmission that I'm going to build.
Gail,
I have never used anything but regular (86) pump gas in my engines. The smell isn't pleasing but I have never had any problems with performance. I thank you for your input on the carb. Being that I don't live at the same elevation as you I should be able to use the smaller diameter with no problem.
George
 
Gail, I'm curious as how you change the gap on your plugs. How are they built.

And George, you are using 6-32 thread on your plug. Can you post your design on that plug. Do you just allow the spark to jump from the electrode to the bore diameter in the head?
 
Gail, I have had to replace the cam due to wear. I am curious what your cam looks like after 45+ hours of running.

I am using brass for the cam and steel for the follower so it is no surprise to me that mine is wearing down. What materials did you use?

Kel
 
Thanks Steve, my current project will use that combo.

Did you harden the cam? Is this necessary? If so, did you have to accommodate for shrinkage? Also, my valves are made out of drill rod. I made them to final dimensions. If I harden them (which I have no experience or equipment to do) would they be scrap?

Kel
 

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