Tig Welder

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Matt: In my area some of the welding supply houses have a demo try before you buy area. If you take a few pieces in You should be able to try some equipment. the other option is local vo tech night school.
Tin
 
I guess a question I have is... does a $750 200 amp welder on 110 volt welder set at 175amp weld the same as a $2500 225amp 220v welder set at 175amp? I understand that I may only have a 20% duty cycle with the $750 one, but really my welds are only going to be 3/4" long at the most.

Matt
 
Question – is there a reason you are leaning towards 110 volt machine? Do you not have 240 volts available in your shop? If you have a breaker panel, with two open spaces - a short run of 6-2 wire with a 50-amp breaker and outlet will run virtually all “smaller” 240-volt MIG, TIG, SMAW, etc, welding machines. The larger machines (over 50 amperes supply current) are usually hard-wired - unless you purchase very expensive high-amperage industrial outlets and plugs.

I would not recommend purchasing any type of 110 volt welding machine. I own a 110 volt MIG welder, and I can’t stand it. It is only good for welding thin sheet metal. If you try and accomplish a multi-pass weld on thicker steel, the joints are cold, and they fail when stressed. There simply is not enough heat for adequate penetration. I am probably going to sell my 110 volt MIG, and purchase a Lincoln 255XT, and set it up for dual-shield.

My TIG welder is a Lincoln 275. It will crank out 2 to 340 amps. It requires a 150-amp 240-volt breaker. For the majority of mild steel welding, I set the upper current limit on the machine to about 180 amperes, and I will run as low as 60 amps for thin stuff, up to 150 amps for thicker stuff. You must remember that TIG is not a high-penetration process. It’s a slow process, which requires multiple and multiple of passes for any type of significant weld buildup. If you try to make a large weld beads (the size of US dimes) on mild steel with a TIG torch, the arc will boil out and spatter the metal – thus it’s really only good for small and delicate low-production work. For TIG welding aluminum, I normally run between 220 and 250 amperes. I have only occasionally dipped into the 300 amp range of the machine, when welding cast aluminum. If you desire to weld aluminum, you need a TIG welder that will do AC also, and is capable of at least 250 amperes. If you go smaller, you will be disappointed.

That being said – “IF” you only desire to weld steel and/or stainless steel (DC only, which means no aluminum), the new solid-state TIG welders that run on 110-volt will accomplish the task nicely.
 
No I don't have a 220 plugin in my shop. My shop is in the basement next to our breaker box and a window, but figure I better weld out in the garage which would be a little more PITA to get a 220 plugin to. If I have any heavy welding to do I just take it to work and do it there. I need a welder at home just for this prosthetic wrench deal.

Not a name brand, but what do you think of the #'s on this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Eastwoo...70564139477?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item56475809d5
 
I have never heard of the Eastwood brand - - - ever. . .

I've met some of the best welders in the word. The only TIG machines they use are Miller and Lincoln. Miller and Lincoln are both top-notch brands, and both companies stand by their products. Replacement parts are readily available, and reasonably priced.

If I were in your shoes, I would keep an eye on craigslist for a used Miller or Lincoln.

http://www.weldingmart.com/maxstar-150-stl.html

Or if you want to purchase new, I would recommend the above machine over the Eastwood.

In answering your earlier question, 18-8 stainless is very similar to 304 stainless – with regard to chemical makeup, and welding properties. They are both austenitic stainless steel.
 
1hand said:
No I don't have a 220 plugin in my shop. My shop is in the basement next to our breaker box and a window, but figure I better weld out in the garage which would be a little more PITA to get a 220 plugin to. If I have any heavy welding to do I just take it to work and do it there. I need a welder at home just for this prosthetic wrench deal.

Not a name brand, but what do you think of the #'s on this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Eastwoo...70564139477?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item56475809d5

I weld in my basement shop. Mig welding for the last 5 years and tig welding for over a year. All you need is a vent/fan. Tig welding is very clean compared to mig or any other type of welding.

And before you spend the money on a brand name. Inverter type welders are less then half the size and weight of the standard welders but cost twice as much when it comes to the 2 main brands. Check out Everlast, they are made in china but have a local distributor both in the USA and Canada. They offer a 5 year warranty and great tech support as well as a forum. They will ship to your door Via UPS.
I have went through 2 of the larger tanks of argon and have had no issues. Mind you the first tank was all practice...LOL

Good luck

Forgot the link. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/
 
I was thinking.....
Have you ever thought of adapting an ER16 collet assembly to thread into your swivel mount. If you did something like that, you could then turn almost anything down to 3/8" or less with a 1/2" shoulder. Then modify the collet nut with a ring so you don't need a wrench to change tools.

This guy made his own holder for a lathe.
5303d1216705654-er-collet-chuck-options-9-sb-cc4.jpg
5300d1216705622-er-collet-chuck-options-9-sb-cc1.jpg
 
1010011010 - The mark of the beast in binary ? - a 29A Hex on you sir.

What on earth is S3MIH3MI or is it just arbitary ?

Ken
 
Ken I said:
1010011010 - The mark of the beast in binary ? - a 29A Hex on you sir.

What on earth is S3MIH3MI or is it just arbitary ?

Ken

LOL
I was born the 26 day of the 6 month of the 66 th year.
My street address is 1666.

Semi Hemi............ I drive a 2010 1500 dodge with a hemi...lol
 
O.K. Got it - kinda obvious really. After the binary 666 I thought there might be something to it but couldn't figure it out.

Back on topic - don't ever buy a "lift start" / "scratch start" TIG get the HF start.
I had a lift start and hated it with a passion - I was relieved when it was stolen = then bought HF start.

Ken
 
Was talking to a guy at work about my dilemma, and he said that his brother has a couple year old Lincoln Precision TIG 185 that he wants to get rid of. So after work I went to look at it, and it has only welded one rear quarter panel on his old GTO that he restored. It still has 2000psi of argon in the first tank that's ever been on it. Comes with a really nice cart that he built with over sized casters and wheels also has storage drawer in the bottom for the foot pedal and cables. This welder is like brand new, no scratches or dings. Would easy pass for a brand new unit. At $600 less than a new Precision 175 without the cart and regulator and 3/4 tank of gas, and a half ass approval from my wife, think I'll be picking it up after work tomorrow. ;D

Matt
 
S3MIH3MI said:
I was thinking.....
Have you ever thought of adapting an ER16 collet assembly to thread into your swivel mount. If you did something like that, you could then turn almost anything down to 3/8" or less with a 1/2" shoulder. Then modify the collet nut with a ring so you don't need a wrench to change tools.

This guy made his own holder for a lathe.
5303d1216705654-er-collet-chuck-options-9-sb-cc4.jpg
5300d1216705622-er-collet-chuck-options-9-sb-cc1.jpg

Cool Idea! I retro fit existing Prosthetic quick change tool holders into my wrist. The bushing that threads on to the wrench or what ever tool has a small spring in the end, and when you push the the button on the quick change the tool pops out. I Incorporated this into my wrists because people that already prosthetics out there use this quick change. Now my tools and wrist will work with their existing prosthetics. I figure it didn't pay to reinvent the wheel so to speak. ;)

Matt
 
Matt sounds like a good deal on the lincoln.

If you have a place to work in your basement near a window and your breaker that should be Ideal.
Should be easy to hook up a 220 outlet and a vent hood.
A range hood from home depot or lows should work fine $60 -70 and if they have a dent/bent one cheaper.
tin
 
Tin Falcon said:
Matt sounds like a good deal on the lincoln.

If you have a place to work in your basement near a window and your breaker that should be Ideal.
Should be easy to hook up a 220 outlet and a vent hood.
A range hood from home depot or lows should work fine $60 -70 and if they have a dent/bent one cheaper.
tin

That's a great Idea! Thanks.
 
Well I was able to go and pick up my welder today ;D

004-37.jpg


005-31.jpg


As I said I don't have a 220v plug-in yet in the basement nor the garage. On the way home I remembered that my generator has a 220v plug-in on it. Its only a 5000/6250 watt with a 30amp breaker, but I thought it would be worth a try.

006-25.jpg


Made an adapter for the plug-in and gave it a try. Set the welder at 140amps attempted my first ever TIG welding try.

001-62.jpg


003-42.jpg


At 140 amps the generator grunted a little bit, but it turned the wrench and the bolt bright orange while welding.

Matt
 
Is the welder of the inverter type? If so, avoid using a generator. The powerfactor of these machines play havoc on the power line and the generator's electronic regulator thus, generating high voltage spikes that destroy the welder. To run a inverter type welder on a generator this should have at least 3 or 4 times the capacity of the welder.
 
Noitoen said:
Is the welder of the inverter type? If so, avoid using a generator. The powerfactor of these machines play havoc on the power line and the generator's electronic regulator thus, generating high voltage spikes that destroy the welder. To run a inverter type welder on a generator this should have at least 3 or 4 times the capacity of the welder.

No it is not an inverter type.

Matt
 
Money well spent.

And very nice looking welds for someone just learning to TIG weld.

You will be very happy with that machine.

The only thing left, is to install a breaker and outlet in your basement.

And remember - just because there's very little smoke when TIG welding, doesn't mean that the vapors are safe. You'll want good ventilation. . . .
 
Entropy455 said:
Money well spent.

And very nice looking welds for someone just learning to TIG weld.

You will be very happy with that machine.

The only thing left, is to install a breaker and outlet in your basement.

And remember - just because there's very little smoke when TIG welding, doesn't mean that the vapors are safe. You'll want good ventilation. . . .
Thanks for all the great information!!!! Had a guy stop tonight and he is going to install a 60amp breaker and run 6-wire out to my garage next week. ;D I'm starting to out grow my basement shop and some day I would like to add a big mill and lathe to the mix, so having 220v out there will be good idea in the long run I think.

Working on a small 36x42 welding table out of some scrap from work, so by the time that's done I should have juice out there also. Ordered filler rod, some consumables, an arc cable/holder, and a auto darkening helmet. "Merry Christmas Me" :big:
 
Those autodarkening helmets are fast but not lightspeed fast - they protect you from the UV but you still get momentarilly flash blinded in the split second it takes to darken.

You learn to do a slow blink as you strike the arc - when you open your eyes the helmet has darkened.

Just a tip - 2c

Great looking welds & welder by the way.

Ken
 
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