South Bend 8K photos

[mikbul]

In between insulating and sanding my ice rink I made another part, I would say this one took half the time. Center drilled, pilot drilled, drilled oversize 1.5," ( still leaves 1.25" of thread on that end) tap drilled with a 5/16" x 6" bit, then power tapped all the way through without stopping with the tailstock loose to slide. The 8K didn't drop a rev., unlike the plug taps you could hear and see the revs drop and time to stop and clear chips. Not with the spiral, it just pushed them out the other end. These spiral taps save time and effort, for a through hole anyway. Then faced and turned that half then switched ends and only had to face, turn, & chamfer, done. A dead center was used in all turning.
I also shot safe tap through the hole until it ran out the other side, all that was needed.

 

[bazmak]

What speed did you tap at and did you use cutting fluid ?

 

[mikbul]

What speed did you tap at and did you use cutting fluid ?

Tapped at 75 rpms in low range with safe tap tapping fluid. The 45 rpm's in the photos it was already tapped and I let it idle through for the photos.

 

[Philjoe5]

That looks like a seriously long tap. Length?

Oops, got it from the post before the pix. Still long though. Tap drilled 5/16" for a 3/8" - 16 NC? That's pretty darn good for a small bench lathe under power.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[mikbul]

That looks like a seriously long tap. Length?

Oops, got it from the post before the pix. Still long though. Tap drilled 5/16" for a 3/8" - 16 NC? That's pretty darn good for a small bench lathe under power.

Cheers,
Phil

True but 1.5 H/P at low range (50-500 rpm, high is 200-2300) is still a lot of power. I think they could have made this lathe a 9" with a longer bed and had plenty of power.

 

[Wizard69]

True but 1.5 H/P at low range (50-500 rpm, high is 200-2300) is still a lot of power. I think they could have made this lathe a 9" with a longer bed and had plenty of power.

That is a big endorsement right there!

 

[mikbul]

Just some photos of how you change the feed rate by switching out pulleys and for threading belt and pulley changes. Pretty easy to do, takes longer to think about what you're doing. The first six feed rates you change just one pulley out, the B pulley. All feed rate changes are done with B&C pulleys. There's one main adjuster for the primary belt from the spindle and the upper and middle pulleys in the back is a nut on a t-bolt to slide the pulley up or down for belt tension. The lower pulley is the leadscrew and they all pivot on the leadscrew. Pretty simple really

 

[mikbul]

I've been off the air so to speak due to spindle bearing issues. Someone at the factory fell asleep at the grease gun and greased my spindle. The SB1001 requires an ISO32 light weight oil, anything heavier will cause excessive machine wear. Hearing a noise from the bearings I pulled the pulley side bearing flange off, which is easy by the way, and found the same black grease that's in all spots that call for it.
I can't fault the lathe for human error. Tech support has been responsive and helpful and I already have the bearings and races. The spindle was out of stock but they put in a special order for it. I'm not sure what that means but hopefully a spindle at my door sooner.

 

[mikbul]

Yesterday I did a dry run with an old race and my homemade puller/press. I still need to completely clean the seats and surrounding area so nothing gets were it's not supposed to.

 

[mikbul]

The races are in, my homemade puller worked great. A fine threaded bolt like on my other pullers would have been better but I couldn't find a fine thread in 1/2" 8" long at the hardware store. Needed a push with the old race to get the last 1/4". ( ground down the OD so it wouldn't stick.)
I did find a high spot on the shoulder on both sides where I relieved it. The piece of race I cut out would rock on the high spot, I scraped it flat.
Should anyone ever need the puller just pay for shipping both ways.

 

[FSG]

Did Grizzly tech service give you any indication if the grease in the spindle bearings was something they are seeing a lot of? It seems like the kind of thing that would have been done to every machine coming off the assembly line for that batch. I've been giving very serious consideration to one of these lathes, but I would really prefer not to have to overhaul it prior to serious use.

 

[Wizard69]

I've been off the air so to speak due to spindle bearing issues. Someone at the factory fell asleep at the grease gun and greased my spindle. The SB1001 requires an ISO32 light weight oil, anything heavier will cause excessive machine wear. Hearing a noise from the bearings I pulled the pulley side bearing flange off, which is easy by the way, and found the same black grease that's in all spots that call for it.
I can't fault the lathe for human error. Tech support has been responsive and helpful and I already have the bearings and races. The spindle was out of stock but they put in a special order for it. I'm not sure what that means but hopefully a spindle at my door sooner.

What happened to the spindle that it needs to be replaced also? More importantly what are your intentions for the old spindle?

 

[mikbul]

Did Grizzly tech service give you any indication if the grease in the spindle bearings was something they are seeing a lot of? It seems like the kind of thing that would have been done to every machine coming off the assembly line for that batch. I've been giving very serious consideration to one of these lathes, but I would really prefer not to have to overhaul it prior to serious use.

No indication of a wider issue. My serial # is 1111 manufactured in 2011 almost four years ago so if there were a batch they would know by now if it were more than an isolated issue. I asked the tech at Grizzly two weeks ago the same question and his answer was no, no other grease issues.
Also I've seen photos of the factory floor and they don't do assembly line with one guy standing at the end with a grease gun!
Also the bearing can be inspected by taking three screws out of the pulley side flange or cover. Page six post 59 shows it in place.

 

[mikbul]

What happened to the spindle that it needs to be replaced also? More importantly what are your intentions for the old spindle?

If you look at the raised portions of the spindle those are the bearing seats and their spun. That was the chatter I was getting.

 

[Swifty]

No indication of a wider issue. My serial # is 1111 manufactured in 2011 almost four years ago so if there were a batch they would know by now if it were more than an isolated issue. I asked the tech at Grizzly two weeks ago the same question and his answer was no, no other grease issues.

I know that time flies when your having fun with a new lathe, even if it was manufactured in January 2011, it would only just be 3 years old.

I see that there are grease nipples above each bearing, a definite trap, perhaps they should have the spring ball oil points instead. Have you been oiling it during the time that you have had it, what are the factory recommendations ? With a variable speed motor, there are no gears spinning around to splash oil on the bearings. How do they contain the oil in the bearings, I see no sign of oil seals, any excess oil must flow out into the hollow headstock and find it's way onto your bench.

Was it the drag of the grease in the bearings that caused the spindle to rotate in the inners.

The problem may be due to a loose fit of the spindle in the bearing inners. Sorry about all the questions, it looks like a very well made lathe.

Paul.

 

[mikbul]

I know that time flies when your having fun with a new lathe, even if it was manufactured in January 2011, it would only just be 3 years old.

I see that there are grease nipples above each bearing, a definite trap, perhaps they should have the spring ball oil points instead. Have you been oiling it during the time that you have had it, what are the factory recommendations ?



Paul.

I'll forget you asked me if I've been oiling my lathe! stickpoke I read the manual online before I got it to make sure I had the correct lubricants on hand. Also I've posted more than once that the spindle takes an ISO 32 light weight oil.
Post #59 page six will answer that question for you.
Also post #68 page 11 on CNC Zone.

 

[barnesrickw]

I use to know common ISO to SEA oil conversions. I'm sure there is a chart out there somewhere

 

[mikbul]

I use to know common ISO to SEA oil conversions. I'm sure there is a chart out there somewhere

Hydraulic fluid is ISO 32 like mobil DTE light or John Deere low viscosity Hyguard, Regular Hyguard would be ISO 68.

 

[Swifty]

I'll forget you asked me if I've been oiling my lathe! stickpoke I read the manual online before I got it to make sure I had the correct lubricants on hand. Also I've posted more than once that the spindle takes an ISO 32 light weight oil.
Post #59 page six will answer that question for you.
Also post #68 page 11 on CNC Zone.

Ouch, I wasn't implying that you weren't oiling it, it looks so new that I thought that you may have had it for a while before you used it, when I referred to the factory recommendations, I was meaning the oiling intervals. The oiling point for the bearing appears to be straight above the outer shell, is there a hole in the shell for the oil to make its way through? I still don't understand why the oil doesn't just flow straight out of the bearing.

I went back and read post 59, and I do recall reading it before but I did not remember it. I usually read every posting on every topic, and it's not possible to recall everything.

Paul.

 

[mikbul]

Ouch, I wasn't implying that you weren't oiling it, it looks so new that I thought that you may have had it for a while before you used it, when I referred to the factory recommendations, I was meaning the oiling intervals. The oiling point for the bearing appears to be straight above the outer shell, is there a hole in the shell for the oil to make its way through? I still don't understand why the oil doesn't just flow straight out of the bearing.

I went back and read post 59, and I do recall reading it before but I did not remember it. I usually read every posting on every topic, and it's not possible to recall everything.

Paul.

No worries! I couldn't remember where the posts were and actually which site there on so not remembering a post a month or two ago is normal.
Right below the oiler is a straight down hole. Then there's a groove or oil galley machined into the bearing seat from front to back above the race. When you oil it the oil drops straight down on the race and since it can't go towards the headstock because of the shoulder it go's the other way and runs straight down into the rollers and sticks to all the bearing surfaces. Through normal use the bearing will use up the oil through friction, evaporation, etc. So you oil it every day before use and no problems, if you run it hard an extra squirt part way through the day and you're good. I believe it's called total loss oiling, which is nice because you start out every day with new oil and a little left over old. Other than the grease fittings it's a simple but effective design, a couple good squirts and off you go. If you think about it a two stroke motor's bearings run in a mist of oil and gas!
Mikbul