South Bend 8K photos
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Swifty
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60 replies and nearly 4000 views, is pretty good. Most postings come to a natural standstill at some stage, don't be disillusioned, that's one nice lathe that you have there.
Now try posting a build log on the item of your choice.
Paul.
Now try posting a build log on the item of your choice.
Paul.
Philjoe5
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I agree with Paul. You've given us a lot of information on this lathe that you don't get from the manufacturer. I've read all your posts and appreciate your efforts. I have 2 lathes now, and probably won't be trading soon, but if and when I do you've given me a good possibility. Especially so since I'm a few hours drive from Grizzly.
As a side note, I'm doing a Work in Progress thread here and sometimes I put up a few posts and I don't get any replies. But when I check the views there might be a few hundred between posts.
Cheers,
Phil
As a side note, I'm doing a Work in Progress thread here and sometimes I put up a few posts and I don't get any replies. But when I check the views there might be a few hundred between posts.
Cheers,
Phil
What do you expect? This is is a small community to start with. It isn't that we aren't interested in new machinery, there are a bunch of tool nuts here but after the juicy details thread naturally slow up. I just don't think a "lack of interest" is the right way to phrase the natural course of events.
Swifty
Well-Known Member
Mikbul, I just checked your postings, of the current total of 49 postings that you have made, all but 4 were on your "South Bend 8K Photos" topic. Perhaps if you join in a bit more on other postings, you will get a bit more from the site, I feel that you are pulling out way too early.
Even just a welcome to new members or a comment about someone else's work will make you known to other members. I liked your posts, but remember that it's a two way street.
Paul.
Even just a welcome to new members or a comment about someone else's work will make you known to other members. I liked your posts, but remember that it's a two way street.
Paul.
First let me say I've enjoyed all your posts and "Lack of interest" was probably not a good choice of words. I'm not an engine machinist and just wanted to bring some info about what I thought could be a useful tool to those of you that are. I'm amazed at the machine work on this site but have no experience so that's why I don't post on any threads, but I have read some. It wasn't an emotional decision, I just don't keep track of the views and thought I was talking to myself!LOL
Anyway, thanks for the reality check
Mike
PS Swifty your right I should join in on other postings but keeping up with three threads has been keeping me busy, Practical Machinist, CNC Zone and HMEM. I had been waiting for that adapter to finish up some tests of headstock alignment etc.
Anyway, thanks for the reality check
Mike
PS Swifty your right I should join in on other postings but keeping up with three threads has been keeping me busy, Practical Machinist, CNC Zone and HMEM. I had been waiting for that adapter to finish up some tests of headstock alignment etc.
I think my version #2 of the aluminum spacer prototype and he said since it's a prototype no charge! I got rid of the expensive and timely aluminum tube and brass ends for a simple solid aluminum bar drilled and threaded. It took 1/3 the time to make and to boot it may be a vibration dampener. I'm waiting for a long spiral tap with an undercut shank to finish the last 1.5" by hand on one end.
Tin Falcon
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The pictures are great . and do not feel bad I have posts with 300 to 600 looks or readers and 0 or one response. And there are folks here that lurk for years and never or rarely post. It is part of what forums are about.
It is sad but most not profit groups churches service groups etc 10% of the people contribute 80% of the effort.
I encourage people to get involved but sometime folks come to get get what they want and are never heard from again . Peoples is peoples what can I say. Just do what you know to be right and do not worry to much about what others do or do not do.
And for others that like this lathe Grizzly just knocked another $300 off the price.
Tin
It is sad but most not profit groups churches service groups etc 10% of the people contribute 80% of the effort.
I encourage people to get involved but sometime folks come to get get what they want and are never heard from again . Peoples is peoples what can I say. Just do what you know to be right and do not worry to much about what others do or do not do.
And for others that like this lathe Grizzly just knocked another $300 off the price.
Tin
Another 300?
That will almost buy you the 5" D1-3 chuck, that chuck is fantastic. I drilled a short 3/16" brass rod out I was going to use for an oil galley and both ends are centered, and I haven't touched the tailstock alignment, that's collet territory(almost LOL). That piece of brass looked like a toothpick in the 5" chuck! I haven't been able to verify yet but I'm starting to believe the factory test record. (for the lathe)
That will almost buy you the 5" D1-3 chuck, that chuck is fantastic. I drilled a short 3/16" brass rod out I was going to use for an oil galley and both ends are centered, and I haven't touched the tailstock alignment, that's collet territory(almost LOL). That piece of brass looked like a toothpick in the 5" chuck! I haven't been able to verify yet but I'm starting to believe the factory test record. (for the lathe)A bit off topic but interesting and is the type of work I've done and the type of prototypes and parts I make. I just re-machined a small .965 diagonal for a guy in California, all small parts now.
I was contracted by Bridgeport CT. High School to get their Telescope back in working order, as you can see lubricant never saw theses parts. The bearings, races and shafts all cleaned up nicely. Take note of the large brass RA gear, the Dec. shaft threaded (double square) for CI weights and if you look closely fine threads to capture & adjust the setting circles and bearings. The fifth photo is re-assembly, note the small sliding counterweights, that's what the brass weight I just machined on the 8K. The last photo is re-assembled with all secondary scopes attached. The knobs that sick out are for the RA and DEC clutches, and the other is to the Tangent Arm (Slow motion, no motor in Dec)
The third photo shows worm and main gear and worm gearbox. The motor is down below on the pier and drives the gearbox through 4 or 5 universal joints.
In the 4th and 5th photos you can see the setting or degree circles, a lot of machining there. Also the 6th photo shows the large hand wheel to flip the telescope from one side of the pier to the other, perfect balance is needed.
Last photo is brass sliding weight I just machined that would mount on a rod like photo #5.
Sorry , realized photo was sideways
I was contracted by Bridgeport CT. High School to get their Telescope back in working order, as you can see lubricant never saw theses parts. The bearings, races and shafts all cleaned up nicely. Take note of the large brass RA gear, the Dec. shaft threaded (double square) for CI weights and if you look closely fine threads to capture & adjust the setting circles and bearings. The fifth photo is re-assembly, note the small sliding counterweights, that's what the brass weight I just machined on the 8K. The last photo is re-assembled with all secondary scopes attached. The knobs that sick out are for the RA and DEC clutches, and the other is to the Tangent Arm (Slow motion, no motor in Dec)
The third photo shows worm and main gear and worm gearbox. The motor is down below on the pier and drives the gearbox through 4 or 5 universal joints.
In the 4th and 5th photos you can see the setting or degree circles, a lot of machining there. Also the 6th photo shows the large hand wheel to flip the telescope from one side of the pier to the other, perfect balance is needed.
Last photo is brass sliding weight I just machined that would mount on a rod like photo #5.
Sorry , realized photo was sideways
Thanks Phil, whenever I'm in CT I can use the machine shop at Yale's Bethany Observatory, with Dave's permission of course. There's a 10K, Bridgeport, vertical and horiz. band saws, drill press, big belt sander, welding equip. etc.
Dave used to do machine work on the atom smasher at Yale and the Big telescopes down in South America and tons of other interesting projects.
If I remember correctly a couple parts were taken to the machine shop That I couldn't repair on site.
Mike
Very interesting work on that telescope. It is unfortunate that stuff like this gets so neglected in our schools. It doesn't matter if it is a high school, college, private or public, if there is no one there taking a personal interest in the equipment from a mechanical standpoint it gets neglected. Sad really!
Glad to see that you are doing a good job resurrecting this telescope. Science education is something we can't neglect either as it leads to a gullible populace.
The thing here is that I've had an interest in building a telescope from the ground up but have been sidetracked by other interests, especially the interest in getting my shop built up. There is a lot of mystery in the night sky.
Glad to see that you are doing a good job resurrecting this telescope. Science education is something we can't neglect either as it leads to a gullible populace.
The thing here is that I've had an interest in building a telescope from the ground up but have been sidetracked by other interests, especially the interest in getting my shop built up. There is a lot of mystery in the night sky.
If you ever get to that point pm me, When I was out of work and lot's of free time on my hands I built a 12" reflector that took 3rd place at the Stellafane convention. Stellafane's (On the historic landmark registry) an interesting place founded by Russel Porter, Springfield VT machinist, amateur telescope maker and Arctic explorer. As a matter of fact most of the original members also worked at Vermont Machine tool, still open after 30years. He also did all the 3-D drawings for the Palomar telescope.
The Porter Turret telescope looks like a wwI bunker with a turret and girder with two mirrors on it. You can sit inside in the cold and warmly look through the telescope!
It was too damn cold to warm up the shop and I was itching to try out the spiral tap so coffee table will do. The tap went through the 1.5" deeper in no time holding the piece by hand and turning with a little adjustable. If this is any indication the 8K will make short work of it if I don't jam it with chips and break the tap. That's a six inch tap with 2.75" in the hole. I pre-tapped both ends with a plug tap but I might not need to do that, we'll see. Actually to be accurate I center and pilot drill both ends then run the 5/16" drill bit through so it doesn't wander.
I was checking out changing the feed rates and the first six rates your only changing out one pulley, the C pulley. Actually for just feed rates you only change out the B&C pulleys. Loosen thumbscrew tensioner, take off nut and C pulley, put different C pulley and nut on and re-tension belt with thumbscrew. About a minute I think. Of course more involved procedure for threading but as much of that I do it's no problem.
For example:
15T/15T= .0030"/rev. 15T/16T=.0033"/rev. 15T/18T=.0037"/rev. 15T/19T=.00.0039"/rev. 15T/20T=.0041"/rev. 15T/21T=.0043"/rev etc.
For example:
15T/15T= .0030"/rev. 15T/16T=.0033"/rev. 15T/18T=.0037"/rev. 15T/19T=.00.0039"/rev. 15T/20T=.0041"/rev. 15T/21T=.0043"/rev etc.
I dilled out 1.5" of the 2.75" of thread on one end and left me 1.25" which is plenty. Also that's 1.25" less I have to tap. I think I can do all the drilling and tapping from one end.
The first prototype is ready to go to the powder coater, I just have to figure that out since he's not open on weekends. I have more blanks made up so I'll try the new procedure out and maybe have more than one powder coated.
Philjoe5
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Until I used a spiral or "gun" tap I could never understand how you could use a mill or a lathe under power to tap threads. Now I do. The first time I used one for a 10-32 thread, I thought I'd used a larger pilot drill than I normally use for 75% threads. Nope, it just goes right through it
Cheers,
Phil
