mklotz
Well-Known Member
Bernd said:
It's because they drive on the left side of the road over there.
Show Us Your Lathe
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It's because they drive on the left side of the road over there.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Bernd,
Many years ago I used to own a very old Myford ML2, which I restored and modified like I did with the Atlas.
That also had the wheel on the RHS, but it wasn't instinctive. When you turned the wheel to the left, instead of going towards the head like a normal lathe, the saddle moved to the tailstock end. I quickly made an idler gearbox to reverse the direction after very nearly running the toolpost into the chuck a couple of times.
I think the right hand thing is just keeping to their own old fashioned style that had served them well for many years. People tend to stick with what they know.
Because of the lever for the half nuts being on the left hand side, it is very easy to make an auto disengage for it. No worries then about running into the chuck, if you get distracted whilst threading.
John
BTW Marv, right means right, left means WRONG.
It is all to do with the time of stagecoaches (not the wild west type), and sword arms.
Many years ago I used to own a very old Myford ML2, which I restored and modified like I did with the Atlas.
That also had the wheel on the RHS, but it wasn't instinctive. When you turned the wheel to the left, instead of going towards the head like a normal lathe, the saddle moved to the tailstock end. I quickly made an idler gearbox to reverse the direction after very nearly running the toolpost into the chuck a couple of times.
I think the right hand thing is just keeping to their own old fashioned style that had served them well for many years. People tend to stick with what they know.
Because of the lever for the half nuts being on the left hand side, it is very easy to make an auto disengage for it. No worries then about running into the chuck, if you get distracted whilst threading.
John
BTW Marv, right means right, left means WRONG.
It is all to do with the time of stagecoaches (not the wild west type), and sword arms.
David Morrow
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Bogs, when I turn my wheel counter clockwise ( top to the left ) the carriage moves left. Perhaps they saw the light of day.
Now if only we could do something about that left hand driving habit of theirs...
Now if only we could do something about that left hand driving habit of theirs...
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Dave,
That old ML2 is still used almost every day by a friend of mine. I will try to get a piccy of it sometime.
With regards to their driving on the left. They haven't realised yet, that if you are changing gear with your right hand, they are attempting to steer with their normally weakest arm. Methinks that is why they wander all over the road and have so many accidents. Leave 'em to it I say.
John
That old ML2 is still used almost every day by a friend of mine. I will try to get a piccy of it sometime.
With regards to their driving on the left. They haven't realised yet, that if you are changing gear with your right hand, they are attempting to steer with their normally weakest arm. Methinks that is why they wander all over the road and have so many accidents. Leave 'em to it I say.
John
Bernd
Well-Known Member
Bogstandard said:
That's why they invented the automatic shift. Only two peddles to worry about on the floor and you can keep both hands on the wheel while driving. :big:
And thanks for the explanation of the hand wheel on the Myford. Still seems odd, but what the heck if that's the way they did it then that's the way it will be. My curiosity has been satisfied.
Bernd
It doesn't matter so much on smaller lathes but the standard of mounting apron handwheels on the left is bloody dangerous if you use a machine anywhere near it's limit.
You hands are directly in the stream of hot chips trowelling off the chuck.
I have both types here, the British and European have theirs on the right, out of the way and the American pattern has had to have a chip guard fitted to protect my pinkies.
I don't know the true reason but it's been around for a long while Colchester's made 2 aprons, the home model on the left and the US export model with the handwheel on the right.
You hands are directly in the stream of hot chips trowelling off the chuck.
I have both types here, the British and European have theirs on the right, out of the way and the American pattern has had to have a chip guard fitted to protect my pinkies.
I don't know the true reason but it's been around for a long while Colchester's made 2 aprons, the home model on the left and the US export model with the handwheel on the right.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Very nice writeup John, it is nice to know the reason why.
John
But maybe the opposite way around.
John
David:
I am curious about the chip tray under your Myford Super 7. Is it a commercially available item? How is the overall stability of the lathe on the Kennedy workstation? I have a similar lathe and thought of using a Kennedy workstation as a base. Congratulations on your find, it looks like a fantastic lathe.
Regards, Mike
I am curious about the chip tray under your Myford Super 7. Is it a commercially available item? How is the overall stability of the lathe on the Kennedy workstation? I have a similar lathe and thought of using a Kennedy workstation as a base. Congratulations on your find, it looks like a fantastic lathe.
Regards, Mike
David Morrow
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moconnor said:
The seller had the chip tray made up. It's quite good but I also put a nice flat cookie sheet underneath which is far more convenient in that I can slide it out and dump the chips and coolant.
I didn't get the Kennedy bench with the lathe. I made my own out of 1" MDF and integrated into my existing work bench. I made it good and solid and built a large cavity underneath and dropped in two 50 Lb. bags of sand from Home Depot to add a bit of mass to the whole thing. Rock solid.
K
Kludge
Guest
Due to numerous requests and a few assorted threats to drive me sane, I have finally gotten pictures of my lathes.
First, the infamous Clisby:
Note the brass "dust" on the cross slide. It really does work with the "sharp tools & light cuts" approach
And now the requisite quarter match. That's the quarter on the tailstock.
The woodworking tool rest, which will serve admirably with gravers as well, arrived after the pictures were taken but I may add one with it later.
Now for the Peerless:
Yes, that's more brass "dust". The clip-on loupe under the bed is part of my optical enhancement set. The lenses are a smidgen over quarter sized (A quarter covers the glass but not the rim) so I decided to use it instead.
I keep the belt loose on this one when it's not in use and I usually do on the other belt-driven machines. (I should on all of them; I'm just a lot more careful with the watchmaker's equipment.)
This and the one above it show the headstock indexing holes. The pin is just below the spindle handle. I can't remember how many holes there are so I guess I should count them. Again.
Aside from cleaning up the ways and a few other assorted necessities, it's still in "as received" condition. It may be ugly right now, but it works nicely. That's the indexing pin kind of hidden under the handle. The lever thingie locks the headstock onto the way while the big screw thingie under the bed is for tightening the cross slide in place.
Wasn't all that a lot of fun?
BEst regards,
Kludge
First, the infamous Clisby:
Note the brass "dust" on the cross slide. It really does work with the "sharp tools & light cuts" approach
And now the requisite quarter match. That's the quarter on the tailstock.
The woodworking tool rest, which will serve admirably with gravers as well, arrived after the pictures were taken but I may add one with it later.
Now for the Peerless:
Yes, that's more brass "dust". The clip-on loupe under the bed is part of my optical enhancement set. The lenses are a smidgen over quarter sized (A quarter covers the glass but not the rim) so I decided to use it instead.
I keep the belt loose on this one when it's not in use and I usually do on the other belt-driven machines. (I should on all of them; I'm just a lot more careful with the watchmaker's equipment.)
This and the one above it show the headstock indexing holes. The pin is just below the spindle handle. I can't remember how many holes there are so I guess I should count them. Again.
Aside from cleaning up the ways and a few other assorted necessities, it's still in "as received" condition. It may be ugly right now, but it works nicely. That's the indexing pin kind of hidden under the handle. The lever thingie locks the headstock onto the way while the big screw thingie under the bed is for tightening the cross slide in place.
Wasn't all that a lot of fun?
BEst regards,
Kludge
M
MadKad
Guest
This is mine, I plan doing alot of extras to it when I get time and some cash
I had the hobby one for 2 weeks and it was just way to small for me, so I went up two grades I think it was, and I love this one ;D
I had the hobby one for 2 weeks and it was just way to small for me, so I went up two grades I think it was, and I love this one ;D
K
Kludge
Guest
MadKad said:
Was that the C0? It's on the "to buy" list here. I'm well aware of the problems but the size is perfect for me and the problems are fixable.
Best regards,
Kludge
M
MadKad
Guest
Kludge said:
yep thats the one
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=559017&name=SIEG+X2&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44
I got all the bits for it etc also, but I make jewellery and it just didnt like being on and off most of the day, as I switched it on and turned up the speed it sometimes would work and other times it just did nothing, then it started slowing down and cutting out while I was working on it, they sent me another control board I replaced it and the same still happend, I am not fully sure but I think my self it was the bushes in the motor.
I was happy as I talked to them on the phone and they were happy to take it all back and I paid the difference for the C2A and I think it has to be the best thing I did, not any problems yet touch wood.
K
Kludge
Guest
MadKad said:
The C0 has to be taken down to nothing and completely rebuilt, cleaning off burrs and other impediments to smooth its operation in the process. Quality control at the factory is spotty on a good day but these are made to be cheap and no expense is spared to achieve that goal. Properly dressed up and made mechanically pretty, it's actually not a bad machine within its capabilities. And, miracle of miracles, the factory does listen to complaints, the greatest number of which center on the tailstock alignment. The fix isn't perfect but it is a step in the right direction.
Overall, with some effort, it's not a bad machine but it's not for someone not ready to do a complete teardown and rebuild.
Best regards,
Kludge ... who strips all his machines as a matter of course.
B
baldrocker
Guest
Why it pays to be on friendly terms with the
local scrap merchant.
The beast that started it all
Twin bar something cant find any ID
Rescued today from the scrap muncher.
Myford not sure what model also rescued today from
the muncher still on the floor cos me back gave out.
BR
local scrap merchant.
The beast that started it all
Twin bar something cant find any ID
Rescued today from the scrap muncher.
Myford not sure what model also rescued today from
the muncher still on the floor cos me back gave out.
BR
B
baldrocker
Guest
Oops
DickDastardly40
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BR
I think the Myford on the trolley is an ML7.
Al
I think the Myford on the trolley is an ML7.
Al
DickDastardly40 said:
Yup definitely an ML7 ............... Click Here Many are still giving good service.
Over here in the UK that would fetch a few hundred pounds on Eblag ... For Instance .... good find at a scrapyard
CC
