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Peewee V4

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Cogsy

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I'm not familiar with the Sherline and I don't know it's work envelope, but although I couldn't have turned the cam (in it's fixture) on my 7X mini-lathe, I could've done the crank easily. The blank is only a 1" round bar by roughly 6-7" long. Hopefully that helps you visualise it.
 

Davewild

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Curiosity got the better of me and I couldn't go off to work without trying to get to pins out of my messed up crank, it wasn't easy I used the smallest punch I have and managed to drive out two of the pins, as these two moved I left it there and will dismantle when I get back, make a new main journal and rod journals and piece it back together again.

image.jpg
 

stevehuckss396

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Sherline should have no trouble. Just do some milling on the blank before you start turning to speed things along.
 
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Metal_slicer

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I have the sherline 5400 mill and I think you can do the job, it just might take a little longer to cut because you cant take quite as much off at one time as the larger millis.

I don't have a sherline lathe, but plan to get one at some time. Right now I have the HF 7 x 10 mini lathe and I need to replace the saddle and cross slide due to poorly cut ways. it will work fine with tight gibs but I can't stand the stiff hand wheels.

I see a lot of people cutting cams and cranks with drill rod material. Whats wrong with 1144 stress proof round rod? You can cut the 1144 then harden it. I plan to use 1144 steel for my crank and cam.
 

stevehuckss396

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I see a lot of people cutting cams and cranks with drill rod material. Whats wrong with 1144 stress proof round rod? You can cut the 1144 then harden it. I plan to use 1144 steel for my crank and cam.

Nothing wrong with 1144. Both my cranks pictured above are 1144. That is the metal of choice for many many model builders. Camshafts, I prefer drill rod.
 
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Metal_slicer

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Nothing wrong with 1144. Both my cranks pictured above are 1144. That is the metal of choice for many many model builders. Camshafts, I prefer drill rod.
I have never tried to cut drill rod and I can't imagine trying to mill a cam with this material. I understand drill rod resist wear very well, but is it really necessary for an engine that will only run unloaded for a few minutes at a time? If there is something to be learned, take me to school. ;D
 

Cogsy

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Drill rod machines quite nicely (in my opinion anyway). I'd never used it before my current project but I made my cam with no troubles. My crank is 1144 though.

Dave - Congrats. Looks like you're going to be able to fix it easily. I bet you're glad you didn't head off to work not knowing.
 

Davewild

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gus

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Now in Ipoh,Perak,admiring your good work.
Still stuck with the V-2.
Take care.
 

Davewild

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Hi all

Things have been very slow for me, but I am again at work, I brought my mini sherline with mill attachment with me and have been making parts, unfortunately I only had 4 hours notice to leave and forgot many things like my 4 jaw chuck, I normally sit down before I leave and work out what I need and make a list, I will try and post some pics but the internet is very poor.
Cogsy did you get your new castings yet? I may need a new block but that's another story!!!
 

Cogsy

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They're some nice looking valves. I have some made although I don't think they look that good, but they'll probably be usable.

No castings yet - the foundry still can't pour any without gas bubbles. Dirk thinks he might have a block or two in stock somewhere so I may get at least that in the near future, otherwise it'll have to be hogged out of solid somehow (not sure how I'd do that though). What has happened to yours? Fingers crossed, it's fixable.
 

gus

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8 valves and they look alike. Great job.
 

Davewild

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Hi all
I have finally got some time to write a few words on my progress, as you can see from the photos I have made numerous pieces while on my last two offshore trips.
There was a good supply of Brass onboard and that would explain the many pieces cut from brass, one of the heads was very disappointing in that it contained a lot of porosity, I proceeded anyway and apart from it not looking very nice I think it is usable.
One of the biggest problems I face while offshore is if I forget to take that certain size drill bit or some other item that is not available on-board, last trip it was a very small drill bit that prevented me from completing numerous tapped holes and a 6mm reamer that also snookered me somewhat.
The flywheel is also made from brass because it was available and free, will it be to heavy? Only time will tell, only problem I can see is that the engine won't de-celerate very quickly, I don't have a radius tool, but I remember Steve Hucks saying that he used graph paper to create the coordinates for a radius, so that's what I did, very easy and worked very well, once I had created the stepped shape of the radius a file smoothed out the ridges, one of those things that makes you think "why didn't I think of that" more pics to follow!!!View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986609.634474.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986658.165985.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986689.768115.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986709.186896.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986744.577929.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986761.708601.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986787.708635.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986816.913440.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986845.963062.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986870.719726.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453987028.644501.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453987094.769483.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453987123.104141.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453987197.160687.jpg
 

michael-au

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Good work Dave, the flywheel looks nice in brass, it is a shame that the castings are so porous, hopefully they will be ok and work for you
It won't be that much longer and it will be finished


Michael
 

Davewild

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I enjoyed making the exhausts, someone on here in another thread ( sorry can't remember name or thread) suggested reading a link to Hi Tech Alloys, whoever you are thanks, I followed these instruction for the use of Cerrobend and apart from some other issues the bending went great.
Luckily there was a tube bender of the correct size at work, I followed Hi Tech Alloys instructions and first filled the tubes with olive oil sourced from the galley, after draining the oil I filled the first two tubes with molten Cerrobend and then dunked them both into ice cold water. Once the tubes had cooled suitably, I made a couple of test bends to get a feel for what I was doing, both were failures with the tube splitting and the force required to bend the tube felt very excessive, it just didn't feel right, I could tell by feel that the brass was very brittle, so it was of to the welding shop to get the tubes annealed. After annealing I again oiled the insides and filled with Cerobend again, the difference was amazing like I was bending a different material, while applying pressure to the bender it felt soft and smooth.
After another couple of test bends I started on the exhausts, it was all done free hand with no calculations, I have to say I admire you guys that have built radials and the associated very convoluted pipe work. Not sure how many pieces I messed up before I got something I was happy with, There is rather a large pile of scrap!!!View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484723.929353.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484801.167810.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484834.554132.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484879.442191.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484894.875745.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484920.694794.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484962.348331.jpg
 
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