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Peewee V4

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Naiveambition

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If you are using a ipad to post, I also could not post more than one pic at a time. I downloaded the hmem app and have no problems posting multiple pics now. It may also be used with phones this way, though I have not tried it.
 

gus

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Will be watching every move you make!!!! This another engine on my ''must build list''. Take it slow and easy.
 

Davewild

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View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1425042162.531368.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1425042205.361981.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1425042231.396595.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1425042250.704887.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1425042268.454198.jpg

Got a little more done today, this is the work I thought I would never be able to achieve with my very small machines, next I will attempt the boring of the cylinders, If I can get that done then I think that the whole engine can be done with Sherline machines, albeit very slowly, took a lot of drill changes and passes with the boring bar but that's the crankshaft and cam tunnel done.
 

Cogsy

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Looking great Dave. Can you explain how you went about drilling the deep holes? (I want to copy your successful procedure)
 

Davewild

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Looking great Dave. Can you explain how you went about drilling the deep holes? (I want to copy your successful procedure)
Hi Cogsy

I thought it would be very difficult to drill both the crank and cam tunnels especially the cam tunnel but it turned out OK albeit very slow it took me about 3-4 hours to complete both.
I started with the crank tunnel as I thought this would be much easier because of the voids in the crankcase, having no long drill bits I started with a 4 mm bit, after centre drilling I drilled with this until it was at its full depth, this reached through the centre main bearing cap, I then went straight up to a 6mm bit and drilled through again this bit was long enough to punch right through, I then went up in 1/2 mm drill bit sizes until I got to 10mm, it was now time for the boring head with a modified boring bar ( attacked with an angle grinder until it would give enough relief to get it to full depth) I took light cuts .2mm until I was nearly there then I went down to cuts of .01mm until the bearing was a nice snug fit, I wasn't as close as I thought I was and this took many passes and over an hour.
I started with the same 4 mm bit on the cam tunnel and pecked away with this until it was at its full depth again I went up to 6 mm and drilled to the same depth, this gave me a 6mm hole about half way through the block, I then went down to a 5 mm bit and pecked away again withdrawing the bit a lot and blowing the hole out with compressed air, the 5 mm bit was about 15 mm short of breaking through. I then went up again to a 7 mm bit and drilled approx half way through the top of the block again, back down to a 6mm bit this went through the last 15mm easy, so I now had the bottom 50% of the hole at 6mm the the top 50 % at 7 mm, but I had broken through, I thought this was going to make the going easier but I hadn't really thought about it, I now went back up to a 7 mm bit a started widening the bottom 50% of the hole, once I was nearly there I could hear my machine under strain because now the hole and drill were both the same size for the full depth of the block, (about 75mm)I broke through again with this size and went up 1/2 mm to 7.5mm it was ok at first but once I got over about 50-60 mm the friction was to much and I withdrew the drill, by chance there was a can of Harley Davidson 60 weight oil on the bench next to me, I put a few drops of this down the hole and on the bit and it cut through easily, again increasing in 1/2 mm drill sizes I drilled the hole to 10 mm and then back to the boring head and the same story until it was at 15 mm, hope this makes sense and is of some help to you. I'm using metric bearings what about you?
 

Cogsy

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Thanks for the explanation, I'll file the info away for when I need to do mine.

I'm using imperial bearings, seals and fasteners for this build. It meant buying some imperial tooling but I didn't want to risk a conversion error or some other complication coming up, especially since this project is already a bit complex for me! I still need to source the seals but it'll be a while before I need them.
 

gus

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Thanks for the explanation, I'll file the info away for when I need to do mine.

I'm using imperial bearings, seals and fasteners for this build. It meant buying some imperial tooling but I didn't want to risk a conversion error or some other complication coming up, especially since this project is already a bit complex for me! I still need to source the seals but it'll be a while before I need them.
I made a big mess with imperial to metric conversion on two engines. With the Howell V-4 ,I am not gambling too much. So far so good.
 

kadora

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Hello friends
Where is possible to buy castings for PEEWEE engine?
I sent message to Mr Tollenaar /he is probably casting producer/ but no answer.
Thank you
 

Cogsy

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Hello friends
Where is possible to buy castings for PEEWEE engine?
I sent message to Mr Tollenaar /he is probably casting producer/ but no answer.
Thank you
Dirk Tollenar is the guy to contact. His email address is DTollenaar@SBCGlobal.net.

There has been foundry problems and the last few sets of castings have been porous and unusable. Dirk is currently dealing with the foundry and trying to solve the issues but at the moment I don't think the castings are available.
 

kadora

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Thank you Cogsy
 

Metal_slicer

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Dave,

What material did you make the cam out of? Do you have any more pictures of your build? I'm following your build closely since I have similar machines and will likely end up using the same setups. I have another question regarding the crank, were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?
 

Davewild

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Hi metal slicer

The cam was made from drill rod, the crank is going to be built up from pieces, sherline are so small I don't think you could turn the crank, should be an up date coming soon.

DaveUOTE=Metal_slicer;265231]Dave,

What material did you make the cam out of? Do you have any more pictures of your build? I'm following your build closely since I have similar machines and will likely end up using the same setups. I have another question regarding the crank, were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?[/QUOTE]
 

Davewild

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Finally I got some shop time. Unfortunately I messed up the crank, it was all going very well until I cut the centers out, I made a terrible mistake and cut into one of the rod journals, I was going to put some protection on them but I thought that as I'm using the DRO I will never hit the journal!!! Not sure how I'm going to get it apart as when I was building it I was going to use some 2 mm drill rod I have for the pins, well the work shop gremlin had hidden it and I was unable to find it, I have a nagging suspicion in the back of my mind that that the gremlin is me and I have put it in a safe place for easy location as I knew I needed it for this project. Well as I had no drill rod but did have two blunt 2 mm drill bits I cut the shanks of of them and used them as pins making it impossible for me to drill them out, I will try tomorrow to punch the pins out, they are glued in with permanent loctite. Will update you soon how I get on, I really don't want to make the whole thing again.
 

Cogsy

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I have a couple of ideas (suggestions is too grand a word for them). First, maybe some gentle heating would loosen the loctite. Depending on which sort you used, you could be looking at 200-400 degrees C but that shouldn't hurt the crank I don't think.

Second, if you can't get it apart, how bad did you ding the journal? It's tough to tell from the picture, but maybe you can set it up in the lathe and skim the journal til it's good again? Just means making those 2 rod bearings a little different size.

I'm sure you can fix it, it looks great apart from that little scuff...

Edit to add : When I made a built up crank I used a hacksaw to manually remove the extra rod and then cleaned up the end with a file. It was a bit of work but I didn't trust my milling capabilities. Even then I managed to nick the journal with the hacksaw...
 
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stevehuckss396

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were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?


Both my crankshafts are one piece. I tried to make a multi-piece but I didn't like the way it turned out. Also my Peewee crankshaft is one piece. I would recommend the single piece crankshaft.



 

Cogsy

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I just had a thought Dave (dangerous, I know) but aren't drill shanks soft? At least on the larger drill bits I believe they leave the shanks soft and only harden the cutting portion. I know I've turned down the shanks of reamers with no problems as they're made the same way.

You've probably got it all sorted by now anyway.
 

Davewild

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I just had a thought Dave (dangerous, I know) but aren't drill shanks soft? At least on the larger drill bits I believe they leave the shanks soft and only harden the cutting portion. I know I've turned down the shanks of reamers with no problems as they're made the same way.

You've probably got it all sorted by now anyway.
Not sorted it's laying on the bench where I chucked it, I'm going back to work again tomorrow in Malaysia, so am spending the day with my son, when I've calmed down a bit I will have a look at it again, I may try the one piece crank, I just don't think my little Sherline will handle it, I will get it sorted, thanks for your comment and hopefully your right, could be a quick job and I might get to look at it next week.
 

Davewild

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Both my crankshafts are one piece. I tried to make a multi-piece but I didn't like the way it turned out. Also my Peewee crankshaft is one piece. I would recommend the single piece crankshaft.



Thanks for the comment Steve, I would love to have a go at a one piece crank I just don't see the little Sherline lathe handling it, if I can't fix what I've got I will give it a go, thank again.

Dave
 
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