Not so easy EZ engine

[xr6t]

Hi everyone.

Started getting my act together for the build of an EZ Engine.

Gathering the materials in itself has proved to be very challenging.

Most sizes have been unattainable here in Hobart, the model shops do not sell anything and the metal merchants have limited stock and are basically not interested in such small quantities.

Cutting 2"x1" alloy to 1" x 1""with an angle grinder has been somwhat interesting.

The oversize rod is OK, this will give me the chance to try my hand at reducing. Remember I am a complete novice

Tools are also proving to be a challenge, conssidering I just bought the lathe (9x20) three week ago and had no idea about "tooling" I find that I now have to purchase things like "tool holders" "parting tools" "reamers" "hss tool blanks" "measuring stuff' etc.

The project so far:-

 

[xr6t]

Photos have not come out, will try again.

 

[tel]

G'day xr6t - in a word - Oztion, George Vesely (Offcuts Galore) usually has a good range of most stuff listed.


http://www.oztion.com.au/Business/Industrial/Metal/auctions/490.aspx

All that other stuff will come with time mate, just add things as you need 'em.

 

[black85vette]

Hi everyone.

Started getting my act together for the build of an EZ Engine.

Gathering the materials in itself has proved to be very challenging.

Most sizes have been unattainable here in Hobart, the model shops do not sell anything and the metal merchants have limited stock and are basically not interested in such small quantities.

Cutting 2"x1" alloy to 1" x 1""with an angle grinder has been somwhat interesting.

Tools are also proving to be a challenge, conssidering I just bought the lathe (9x20) three week ago and had no idea about "tooling" I find that I now have to purchase things like "tool holders" "parting tools" "reamers" "hss tool blanks" "measuring stuff' etc.

If you can't find things locally then buying from an on-line company is a good option. They sell in small quantities. You pay a little extra but don't have to buy larger pieces.

Might be better to cut the piece with a hacksaw than an angle grinder. Less work after the cut to get it cleaned up.

Tools can be bought as you need them. Get a set of basic cutting tools and some blanks so you can make specialized tools. Ask questions here about the kinds of tools and where to look for them so you get the most for your money.

What other tools do you have? Drill press? Grinder?

Also: if you can get some scrap stock cheap spend some time getting comfortable with your lathe before you start cutting actual engine parts.

 

[xr6t]

Well I'm still at it and the mistakes are coming thick and fast, all good fun though and I am learning heaps.

What looked like an easy job is proving to be a jig saw puzzle.

The lathe threw a whammy a couple of days ago, looked like the 4th July, not quite sure at this point in time what went wrong other than a dead lathe. The agents are sending me another printed circuit board to install and hopefully I will back on the job again.

Your not wrong about hacksawing instead of cutting with a grinder. I thought that grinding it would give me the chance to size it in the 4 jaw chuck, and it did, but it was during this process that the lathe died. I am sure it was not because of this though.

See photos.

As for what gear do I have.

Drill press, hand drills and 5" grinder. Various hand tools.

After today I now have QCTP, live centre, digital calipers, dial indicator, 6x5/16" hss tool blanks, countersinks.

Will place another order in aagain now that I have some idea what is required, any suggestions welcome. Still shooting in the dark.

Cheers

KenM

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Nice looking lathe.

As far as what else to get...it looks like you're in good shape. I could only come up with...(and you probably already thought it)...taps.

Looking forward to seeing more. Ever since the EZ engine was introduced I've been interested in seeing what people do with it.

 

[Deanofid]

Sorry to hear about the lathe troubles, Ken.
Just by way of encouragement, what you have there for a lathe will do you well for lots of projects, as far as its capacity and size are concerned. Sometimes electrics are a problem, (for anything that plugs into a socket, not particular to your lathe!).

Hope you get 'er fixed up soon. Keep an eye on that four jaw.
Ask as many questions as you can think up!

Dean

 

[kvom]

There's another Tasmanian on the board 'penguingeoff'. Perhaps he can help you out as needed.

 

[xr6t]

Hi All,

Back in action again after the agent supplied a new circuit board. Speed range has now improved to 50-2220rpm.

I have finished the body of the EZ, done the flywheel and piston, had two attempts at the valve in mild steel but each time it breaks off at the jaws?? when reducing the shaft size to .125

Finding the drawings somewhat confusing.

KenM

 

[black85vette]

Hi All,

Back in action again after the agent supplied a new circuit board. Speed range has now improved to 50-2220rpm.

I have finished the body of the EZ, done the flywheel and piston, had two attempts at the valve in mild steel but each time it breaks off at the jaws?? when reducing the shaft size to .125

Finding the drawings somewhat confusing.

KenM

Glad to hear you are back in action.

How far out from the chuck are you cutting when doing the valve? If it continues to be an issue run the part with a live center in the tail stock to prevent stressing it at the chuck.

If you have a question on the drawings just ask.

 

[xr6t]

:Thanks, I gave the live centre a thought, but was not confident with my ability to use it on such a small diameter part.

Each time the valve broke off it was very close to the jaws, the protruding part of the valve that I had already machined seemed to get up a wobble, signifying a balance problem, the break. At first I thought it may have been poor quality material, but I have now tried two different pieces.

Will keep on trying, I have included a couple of photos, one of where I am up to and the other of the broken valves.

Cheers

KenM

 

[black85vette]

It should not take too much pressure to cut the valve. Be sure the cutter is sharp and try lighter cuts also.

What you have already made is looking good. Nice progress so far.

 

[SAM in LA]

Make sure that your parting tools tip is inline with the parts axis and perpendicular to it too.

 

[Debian]

Excuse me if I'm a little off topic, btw, You spoke about drill press, if a vertical mill is owned, is really so important to have also a drill press? maybe is better to use the mill for all the milling operation (involving lateral cutting) and the drill press for tap and general holes that doesn't really need a centesimal precision? thank You. I'll hope soon I'll buy the mill, so would like to know if I'd would also plan to buy a drill press!

Paolo

 

[black85vette]

, if a vertical mill is owned, is really so important to have also a drill press?

If you have a mill you can get by without the drill press. But it is nice to have the drill press so you don't have to disturb your setup on the mill just to drill a hole. I have mine side by side.

 

[xr6t]

;D Thanks for the tips, will give it another go over the week-end.

Cheers

 

[Deanofid]

There are a few things that could be causing the trouble with the valve bending/breaking.

If your tool tip is a little low, it will make the work want to climb up over the top of the tool, bending the piece, or breaking it off.

If the tool tip is not quite sharp, it takes too much pressure on the side of the work piece to produce a cutting action, again bending the piece slightly, and then it wants to climb up over the tool bit, again.

It would be a good idea to use a center in the tailstock to support the piece. Back it off when it comes time to part off the piece.

You probably can cut this without a center, but it's quite a bit of thin material sticking out of the chuck. It will take very light cuts, tool on center, and very sharp.
Give it a try with a center and see if you have better results.

Dean

 

[xr6t]

Thanks for the tips again, but once again I have not been successful.

The live center did make a difference, I resharpened and reshaped the hss tool and finely ground it on a diamond stone, used a bit of Magic Tap and it cut like it was peeling an apple, using 630rpm.

I think I may have been using too much pressure. I have started another piece and I am taking .003 off each cut, log winded but it is working so far. Will take the second stage cuts tomorrow, don't want to screw my day up completely.

Any other advice gratefully received.

Cheers

KenM

 

[user 1493]

The first time that I attempted to make the valve it broke. I tried to do it the same way that you did. My second try was successful. I used a live center and an MT3 extension so that the tailstock was displaced and I could work close to it. I also started my work on the end of the stock closest to the chuck. After the first cut was completed I moved it into the chuck so that the next cut was started close to the chuck again. After that cut was completed I moved the piece back out from the chuck and parted it off next to the chuck. I cut the flat on the end with an abrasive disc in a Dremel tool. I hope that you can figure out my explanation. It is very apparent that I am not a technical writer.

Jack

 

[Little_Freddie]

Hiya!! I am at the same stage with my EZ, first project on the lathe, and lost a couple of valve stems,... Can I suggest you double check toolpost holder tightness?? And parting tool rigidity??? I had the same thing happen to me,.. I found that the parting tool blade was out too far, causing it to flex, and the toolpost holder was not as tight as it could be, and was rotating slightly under pressure, causing the cutting tool to bite into the side of the cut I was making,......


Cheers, good luck with it,.... Fred