Non-staining way oil?

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10K Pete

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I have been using a brownish way lube, since about 1983, on my 10K. I don't
remember the brand as I was given a couple of gallons back then by a guy
who bought it bulk. The problem is that it stains everything brown and the machine looks a bit 'rusty' on the bare metal. I rebuilt the lathe about 6 years ago, including a nice new paint job (high grade industrial machine enamel),
and now there's brown stains on the paint too.

Does anyone know of a quality way oil that doesn't stain everything?
 
I use ISO VG 68 Zinc Free Hydraulic Oil, I also use this oil in the Headstock and Gear box, my lathe is a Myford. this oil does not stain and keeps the slidways nice and clean, I'm in the UK but there will be equivalent oils in the USA.

Mike.
 
Yes, quite a lot of cutting oils are pretty messy and stain but the best policy is to go to your supplier to the trade rather than individuals.,
Like Mike, I have a Myford and there was this very expensive makers 'recommended ' oil and I confess to a certain meanness and don't suffer fools gladly and don't take prisoners and that sort of thing. So I went in my overalls to the local wholesale oil firm, leant on the counter and said 'Have you got the equivalent of NUTO32?' for the same price as a pint, I got a whole gallon of the equivalent which was simply ISO32 High Bollick oil for farm and whatever use. So pushing my luck further, I said 'Lard oil?'
'5 litres, mate- 14 quid?- Next week, OK' and that is what I use for the lathe bed and cutting and tapping and attracting wasps and keeping my pinkie fingers pretty and when I can be bothered , barbecues.

And let me tell you a secret? Nobody listening? Lard oil is the stuff that the old timers used and the other is that lard oil is an ingredient or was for paints and creams along with other drying oils.

Now you wont tell anyone? Promise?

Norman
 
Pete,
As already mentioned, ISO 68 for ways, and for gearboxes, that is much too thick, so an ISO 32 (gen purpose hydraulic oil) is fine, plus it usually has it's own detergents included to keep the insides (and outsides) clean.

with regards to staining, you just won't be able to stop it as the oil carries swarf about with it, and you will usually find that is what stains, not the oil.

Plus, a machine is there to use, not to look pretty and polished, the more oil you can get about it, the less wear you will get. Clean down once a year to get the stains off if you must having it looking pretty and polished.


John
 
Thanks for the replys guys. I know about lard oil; 'cutting' oil is nothing
but sulfurized lard oil usually.

I've been playing about with ISO 68 on the ways (it's what I use for gear
box, etc) and it 'seems' to be fine. Good to hear others use it for way lube
also. I use a light oil for spindle, SSU 100 I think.

John, my machines aren't pretty. Not by half! It's just the staining just isn't what I care for. I try to keep my machines wiped down and clean 'cause I
need them to last at least another 15 years. The brown stains just go against my idea of clean. These stains don't clean off.

Anyway, thanks for the info,
Pete
 
If you don't mind my jumping in, I've found that bore cleaner (for rifle barrels) seems to work real well on my machinery. The Hoppes brand comes to mind. As for oil, I use automatic transmission fluid for quite a few lube duties but there are limits. Tranny fluid is about 20w.
 
Hi

I have been using way oil from Grizzly. It works well and is green in color. I have not had any staining problems.

Mark
 
I have been using Vactra #2 way oil on all my machine tools for over 30 years with no staining problems. It is about the same color as new motor oil. It probably doesn't make any difference on manual machine tools but on CNC machines it can reduce the backlash considerably. This is because it is formulated to have about the same friction required to start a movement as when it is actually traveling. You would want to use the #2 as it is a lighter oil than the #1 and is more suitable for smaller machines. It is on the recommended list for most smaller CNC machines.

The closest I get to staining with it is after an infamous New Mexico dust storm when, like any other oil, the dust sticks to the exposed oil. Then it is just a case of wiping down the surface with a paper towel. To clean the machine up really well I use standard"409" household cleaner in a spray bottle and wipe off the oily film on painted surfaces with paper towels. If I clean the ways the same way then I wipe a little more way oil on them afterwards.

Gail in NM
 
Thanks guys! That is just the info I was hoping to receive. I'll have to order
some Vactra. I use Mobile DTE-28 in ISO 68 weight for the gearbox, etc.
and 100 SSU weight for the spindle. That brown staining is just getting
irritating!!

Pete
 
Chain saw bar oil sticks well. I don't know about staining. I'm not worried about the machine and I try to wear old clothes or an apron when using it.
 
Pete

Just go to your local TSC , (tractor Supply) or ag supply, what have you.

Look for the ISO marking on the label. The hydro-gear lube 32 will cover everything you need. Save yourself time and money.

You can look up lube cross reference chart on line, if you like to see for your self.
 

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