Jim builds his second v-8

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I needed to test the water pump and check for leaks. Had no leaks in the block but did where the intake attaches to the heads. Working to seal that now. Here's a video of the pump pumping. I think its pumping well and the seal's not leaking.
 
Well, ran the pump a couple of hours and everything is sealed. The block was leaking. Mistakenly I had installed an early version of a head gasket which contained a design error. The pump seal also leaked and needed a redesign. Originally I was relying on a Delrin sleeve to seal the shaft. That didn't work. I redesigned the sleeve to incorporate a flange which mated with the back of the impeller. I kept the joint tight with spring pressure from a short piece of 1/8" silicone tubing. I originally intented to use a bellville washer for this service but I didn't have one and the tubing was laying there. I tried it. It worked. No leaks now. Here's a photo of the drawing of the pump so you can see the layout. Looks like I failed to label the ball bearing in the front of the housing. Oh well. BTW, the bearing pocked isn't as deep as the drawing shows.
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I'm making plans for the electronic ignition. Most of my engines use an automotive coil but for thisone I want something smaller. I've seen pictures of modified weed wacker coils which looks to me like a primary winding has been added by applying some windings around the exposed core. Anybody know anything about doing this,like the number of turns, wire gage and voltage to apply to this mash up. Sure looks like a solution if its doable.
 
I'm making plans for the electronic ignition. Most of my engines use an automotive coil but for thisone I want something smaller. I've seen pictures of modified weed wacker coils which looks to me like a primary winding has been added by applying some windings around the exposed core. Anybody know anything about doing this,like the number of turns, wire gage and voltage to apply to this mash up. Sure looks like a solution if its doable.
I think you will love this link,all you can think of and more
http://www.cncengines.com/ic.html

cheers
 
Hi Jim,
This is the distributor on my 302 engine. It has a cap that I originally go from Bruce Satra but now are being sold by S&S. It has a Hall trigger type ignition and you can see by the picture my Hall is mounted on the outside of the distributor body. I use a couple of different ignitions for it, one is a Jerry Howell type and the other is from S&S. They both work fine.
gbritnell

302 NEW 5.jpg
 
Nice looking distributor George. I've got the electronics developed. I like your idea of putting the hall effect sensor outboard. I've generally mounted mine inside the distributor thus been troubled overheating it. I've gotten by by using sensors designed to take higher ambient heat. Been using my circuit for other engines but they all involve using a large automotive coil. What I want to do is find a physically smaller coil. I found a link for an aftermarket motorcycle coil I think I'm gonna try. Cost is about $12 plus shipping. I did a search in the forum for ignition coils and this link came up. It looks good. Here's a picture of my distributor. All the parts were machined by me. The design has been working for a couple of years on a v8. I was going to say the one in the avatar but I see its not in the avatar. I wonder where it went.
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Press in some seals. Front seal is in the timing gear cover. The rear seal is pressed in a special flanged ring which bolts on to the rear of the engine with 4 2-56 cap screws. Here's a couple of pictures.
Front seal installed:
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Rear seal installed:
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Need a rear cam tunnel cover. I guess I'll do that next. Looks too like I need to reset the date on my camera.
 
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What did you use for the seals or where did you get them please?
 
Seals came from McMaster Carr. Search for seals. The double spring and single spring ones. Rear is 0.5x1, front is 0.375x0.75.
Thanks for asking.
Hey Steve, progress is slow but recently steady. Shop time gets tough for me in the summer.
 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnWk2udR96k[/ame]
I've been away from the Forum for a while. I have made some progress. Here's a video of the first run. It needs some tweaking but it's showing some possibilities.
 
Yeah, needs a lot of clean-up. Had it looking somewhat nice for the names show but hadn't yet run it enough. Got no splashers on the rod caps yet so I've been running it on pre-mix. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. Won't rev well yet either. Got some trouble in the distributor cap too cuz a cylinder or two doesn't fire dependably. I can see the spark through the plug caps and often cylinder 7 will just not fire. In the video you can see a puff of smoke from time to time when it misfires. Idles really slow though and starts well. I like that. Overheats after 7 minutes, on radiator too. I'm hoping breaking in will cure that quirk.
 
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Well, here it is again. I was running it on premix but now dippers have been added to the rod caps, oil has been added to the crankcase, the headers have been bolted on, fuel is straight camp fuel. I've run about 10 tanks through it, each taking about 6 minutes. It doesn't smoke and I haven't yet had to add oil (10-40). I placed some aluminum sheets in the water tank to aid cooling and run a small fan too. Its getting better all the time. One nice feature of straight fuel is I can now breath and see the other side of the shop. I empty a full 6 minute tank without over heating but a quick refuel and restart will heat it over the limit. The radiator is built but it's kinda fragile so I'm saving it during break-in. It cools about like the pop can. I may need a larger one.
You ever have this trouble: I can't seem to work on it cuz I'm always running it.
Check out the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKvdJIRc6AQ&feature=youtu.be
 
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Thanks guys, Steve, you have any overheating issues with the Demon?
 

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