Inspiration for new air motor

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Both flywheels were given the same sandpaper treatment, then polished with an old Eastwood polishing kit left over from my hot-rodding days. all buffs were ran at 450 rpm. First a sisal buff with emery compound, then a spiral buff with stainless compound, then a loose cotton buff with white rouge. It certainly makes a big change from the machined cast iron finish.
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A few pages back in this thread I was asking about e-clip insertion tools. I found out that Spae-Naur in Kitchener Ontario has external retaining rings (which are less fat than an e-clip but do the same thing) and also sell the installation tools. The tools aren't cheap---about $40 each, but I figured that after 27 engines I deserved them. So--I got 100 of 1/8" shaft external retaining rings, and 100 of the 3/16" shaft external rings, and the tools to insert both sizes.
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Another weird and wonderful engine Brian, neat, BRILLIANT.
As a newbie I have been looking at your earlier posts from your first engine to this one (No27?) and have had a lot of questions answered that I wanted to ask, almost like a tutorial. Keep up the good work, WHAT'S NEXT?
 
JC54--Nothing for a few months I hope. I've went crazy building engines this past winter, building about 5 I think. I hope to document more of my "finishing strokes" on this most recent engine such as paint and polishing, but I need a break from building.
 
A question now, related to the finishing/painting of the flywheels. The flywheels are made from a split pattern, and the split is exactly on the center of the spokes. There isn't a lot of flash, but there is a definite ridge on each side of the spokes and the inside center of the outer rim. Now, I have the option of sanding that ridge away with my Dremel tool, but in so doing it will leave a smooth surface which does not match the general "as cast" surface of the rest of the flywheel where I haven't polished it. I definitely don't want to sand away the "as cast" surface on all the flywheel. Maybe I should just leave the ridge alone and paint everything that I didn't polish today. Opinions please, and pointers from those who have painted flywheels themselves.---Brian
 
I want my flywheels it to look scale and the base casting finish is too coarse for that. I was able to remove the cast lines with the dremel as well as buff the other surfaces a bit to match without giving too fine a finish.
 
In the best full size work the flash and rough bumps on the casting would be removed and then then a filler used to to produce a smooth surface. This applies to model work too. Polyester car body filler does the job.

But before you do that you should put a chamfer or shallow recess on the inner edges of the rims so that the bright part of the rim has a true running inner edge. You would then paint right up to the flat face. This diguises the run-out of the as-cast inside of the rim.
 
I can't even begin to tell you how well these retaining ring inserters work. After years and years of having small retaining rings fly across the room and disappear forever into swarf and cobwebs, this is just like magic. It still takes a certain finesse to load them into the spring loaded jaw of the insertion tool but nothing compared to the old needle nosed pliers trick.
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It's time to start blowing this thing apart for painting and polishing. Fortunately this is an extremely easy engine to dismantle. I have to buy a new 8" spiral buffing wheel, as my old one is clogged up and difficult to use. I will polish all the brass bits and paint the cast iron cylinder and cylinder head and the aluminum feet. I like the colour of the original flame-eater that inspired this build, so will probably go for the same blue. I'm not going to spend a lot of time prepping for paint. Probably just wipe everything down with laquer thinners to get rid of any grease or oil, then buy a can of Tremclad rattle-can paint to paint it with.
 
Another fantastic engine design & build Brian. It's going to look good with those colors & polished pieces. I also really like the clip installation tools, gotta add those to my "wish list".

John
 
I got notification by email that my 8" spiral buff and buff rake were shipped out today from Pennsylvania. I'm so sick of making little engines that I could run in circles and bite myself. Our snow is finally gone here, and I took the day to drive up to Bancroft and visit my ancient mother who will be 98 years old in August. Nice day, good visit, nice trip. Once I get this engine painted and polished, I sincerely hope that nothing else catches my fancy until next fall.---Brian
 
Temperature went nuts today, up to almost 80F. (Wonderful) I hustled my butt down to Canadian Tire and bought a rattle-can of dark blue Tremclad paint, masked off the shiny parts on my flywheels, then set everything up in my main garage and painted it. All of the cast iron is painted now (except the piston which won't see any paint). I've never been a fan of rattle can paintjobs, but for something this size it isn't worth buying separate paint and reducer. I'm quite happy with the colour.---Brian
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I just spent 20 minutes in the garage, untaping the flywheels and washing any blue paint off the sides of the flywheels. The paint always "migrates" under the tape edges when you are masking off steel, and if you don't catch it just at the right time it is very difficult to clean off-----leaves a ragged looking edge. You want the parts dry enough that the paint won't stick to your fingers, but still not absolutely dry. A rag wrapped over the end of your finger and wetted with paint thinners works excellent for this, but it's a rather delicate process. Someone asked if I was going to clearcoat the polished face and edges of the flywheels, and I said no, because all of the polishing compounds you use are wax based and will protect it from rusting.--That is still correct---But--if you are going to paint the flywheels you have to be sure and remove all of the wax first with strong laquer thinners. So--consequently, when my paint is fully cured I will apply a bit more "final polish" compound to the unpainted surfaces.
 
I'm down to the point where everything is painted and polished. I had hoped to capture some of the brilliant shine on the brass, but it doesn't show up very well in this picture.---And---when I went to take another shot I got the "Charge Battery" message on my digital camera. Reassembly should be a fairly simple exercise, but I just got a call from one of my customers and that will eat up my afternoon. Tomorrow I will put it all back together. When it's all blown apart like this, there aren't very many pieces, are there.
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... I'm so sick of making little engines that I could run in circles and bite myself. ... Once I get this engine painted and polished, I sincerely hope that nothing else catches my fancy until next fall.---Brian

Brian, I've got to tell you how much I admire your work - and the speed you get it done. I started on my Duclos flame eater weeks ago and just got the first piece more or less done. It still needs more finish work.

Yeah, there were a lot of interruptions like spring planting and stuff around the house that needed to be fixed, but the real reason is that I'm a newbie at this stuff and most of the time I don't know what I'm doing.
 
The painting and polishing is finished, and the engine is reassembled. I'm very happy with the way this engine turned out. I've built so many engines over this past winter that I hope not to start anything else between now and fall. Thank you to the people who have followed this build on the forum.---Brian
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Mjw4YLCt9E&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
Gotta say it again, Brian.

Nice build. Just the right amoung of Bling. Good paint. Smooth Running and very interesting to watch.

I do have to admire the speed at which you did this one. Enjoy your time off this summer, but I hope you come back inspired again. I look forward to your posts.

Regards,

--ShopShoe
 
Such a nice engine to watch Brian .Have a good break but I bet there will be some plotting and scheming before long , then an itch ........
Cheers
John
 

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