Howto replace quill return coil spring on a CHeapy China Drill Press.

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gus

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When you buy a cheapy $100 MIC aka "Made in China" Bench Drill Press,please do not expect spare spares on the shelf from day 1-------12 years later. After 12 months of living with a ''Bush Engineered'' Quill Return Device made of two mini tension springs and cable which could never give a full quill return,I went coil spring hunting. New Spring a wee bit bigger than the original. So had to make do with.Same came in held compact with a retaining wire wrapped around.

Months back I was struggling to reload old spring coil into housing and found that only a three/four handed wizard with a magic wand can get job done.
Here's the rule,law or trick.
1. Never Never Ever cut or remove the wire holding the coil spring tight.
You will need a magic wand to get job done to put in a sprung coil spring.
2. Replace spring coil as per original. Insert both ends into relevant posts. Some adjustment required to get full quill return/retrtact. Some lube required between the spring layers to make retract smooth. This cheapy Drill Press has served me very well for last 12 years and helped built many simple-----complicated steam engines and 6 I.C. Engines. Had wanted to replace drill with a far better and bigger Taiwanese Drill Press which cost me 4 times the price. The Taiwan Drill was far too big and tall to handle and I had no choice but to repair MIC Drill. Very happy with refurbished drill . Q.E.D.

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Another option is o use a gas strut, a bit like the conversion for an X2mill but fitted to the side where the old spring is and make some custom mounts for the quill and machine housing.
I know what you mean about leaving the clips / straps on the new spring until it is in place i have replaced the starter recoil spring on many trimmers and mowers over the years , actually a trimmer recoil spring may be very close to what is on your drill .

Ian.
 
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Gus,

Having altered the tension and removed the tension spring many times on my mill drill, I found it fiddly but rather easy to put on.

You should start with the spring inside the cup with the outside end bend through one of the square cutouts. Then it is a matter of getting the loop on the other end of the spring located onto the pin on the machine side. Once that is done, you can wind the outer spring case up until you have the correct tension. If you get tired half way through, the outer case should be able to be rested by another pin sticking out of the casting and fitting into one of the side cutouts.

John
 
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Gus,
You should start with the spring inside the cup with the outside end bend through one of the square cutouts. Then it is a matter of getting the loop on the other end of the spring located onto the pin on the machine side. Once that is done, you can wind the outer spring case up until you have the correct tension. If you get tired half way through, the outer case should be able to be rested by another pin sticking out of the casting and fitting into one of the side cutouts.

John


John
100% righ. This is how it's done on most lawn mower starter rope and
outboard motors Thm:Thm:

good luck
GUS
 
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Gus,

Having altered the tension and removed the tension spring many times on my mill drill, I found it fiddly but rather easy to put on.

You should start with the spring inside the cup with the outside end bend through one of the square cutouts. Then it is a matter of getting the loop on the other end of the spring located onto the pin on the machine side. Once that is done, you can wind the outer spring case up until you have the correct tension. If you get tired half way through, the outer case should be able to be rested by another pin sticking out of the casting and fitting into one of the side cutouts.

John


Thanks .John. Will try your method. th_wav With the $100 Drill repaired, Drilling is back to normal. :)
 

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