Howell V4 from Italy

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Foketry

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I encountered many problems with the distributor, I fried many Hall sensors during the timing.
I used TIM 6 ignition with scooters Coil with quite satisfactory results but the battery drain is too high , about 3 A

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Foketry

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After yet another fried Hall sensor, despite the electrical ground was guaranteed by 2 electric wires, I decided to build a new distributor with increased size of 30%
In absence of lighting it was possible sometimes to see the spark jump from the rotor towards the sensor. When this happened, the sensor was fried........
This happens when the timing is not centered and especially if you feed Tim 6 with 12 Volts
I made a new distributor with 3 different shells, initially using black Delrin, then transparent Lexan
With Lexan you can see exactly what happens inside the distributor , where sparks jump and make a centered timing.
 

Foketry

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At the center of the distributor cap I put a graphite contact with a small spring that keeps it always pressed against the rotor

IMG_9533.JPG
 

Foketry

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I replaced TIM 6 with CDI scooter, hiding the trigger under the flywheel
This type of CDI has the automatic advance adjustable with trimmer, my setting has excluded the automatism.
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dsage

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How are you compensating for triggers off the flywheel happening at twice the speed as they would when triggering at the distributor? (Coupled with keeping the flywheel balanced).
Also it's not surprising you have high current driving that (CDI) coil with a TIM6. The coil is meant for quick ~250v pulses not 12v long dwell activation.
 

Foketry

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How are you compensating for triggers off the flywheel happening at twice the speed as they would when triggering at the distributor? (Coupled with keeping the flywheel balanced).
Also it's not surprising you have high current driving that (CDI) coil with a TIM6. The coil is meant for quick ~250v pulses not 12v long dwell activation.
the distributor is connected with a crankshaft by 2: 1 ratio, 4 sparks are made every revolution of the distributor. My flywheel has 2 steel inserts which cause two triggers each revolution, the first revolution for cylinders 1 -4, second revolution for cylinders 3- 2 .
You can see the photo of my flywheel in the previous post, there are 3 protrusions , 2 contain the steel inserts, one contains a small screw for fixing, the sensor is under the flywheel.

the blue coil used with Tim 6 is not for CDI, it is an external 6/12 volt coil for old scooter ignition
with CDI I used an orange 250 Volt coil
 

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bluejets

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the distributor is connected with a crankshaft by 2: 1 ratio, 4 sparks are made every revolution of the distributor. My flywheel has 2 steel inserts which cause two triggers each revolution, the first revolution for cylinders 1 -4, second revolution for cylinders 3- 2 .
You can see the photo of my flywheel in the previous post, there are 3 protrusions , 2 contain the steel inserts, one contains a small screw for fixing, the sensor is under the flywheel.

the blue coil used with Tim 6 is not for CDI, it is an external 6/12 volt coil for old scooter ignition
with CDI I used an orange 250 Volt coil
Do you have intention of doing a write up on the CDI ignition? Links to parts and wiring especially, I'm sure many would be interested.
 

Foketry

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Do you have intention of doing a write up on the CDI ignition? Links to parts and wiring especially, I'm sure many would be interested.
I was inspired by your post regarding the DC CDI and after having fried some Hall sensors I decided to experiment the CDI on this engine.
This Howell V4 has the flywheel under which the CDI trigger can be hidden, I hid the CDI box in a cavity inside the wooden base and connected 5 cables as shown in the diagram found on the web (attached)
The high voltage cable in the center of the distributor, 12 volt battery and everything worked on the first try.
I can also adjust the advance ignition with a trimmer
If anyone needs more information, I'm available
Now my challenge is energize on the CDI ignition with Hall sensor , I haven't succeeded yet
 

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bluejets

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If anyone needs more information, I'm available
Yes, that was what I had in mind.
I (imagine) the coil is a GY6.
What are you using for the "trigger" as original units in the bike are triggered by a coil/magnet.
What is the "trimmer" you refer to and where does that connect?

Probably easier for you to do a write up with links to where the info came from for example. The web is a big place.
 

Foketry

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What are you using for the "trigger" as original units in the bike are triggered by a coil/magnet.
What is the "trimmer" you refer to and where does that connect?

Probably easier for you to do a write up with links to where the info came from for example. The web is a big place.

I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo
 

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bluejets

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I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo
Yes, as I suspected. The box as you say is the CDI unit, not the trigger.

The trigger is a coil (photo 52705750) as per original fittings.

Great but many instances there is nowhere to hide this rather large item which is why I went to hall effect and associated circuitry to compensate.

Thanks ......
 

bluejets

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I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo
Do you have a link to where you purchased the pick up coil ( right hand side photo) ?
I can see many places where the cdi unit, ign coil and spark plug come as a kit but nowhere for the pickup coil.
 

Rudy

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Congratulations with a successful and absolutely stunning build. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Rudy
 
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