How to use a hand reamer?

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PeterB

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I´ve got a hand reamer but I'm not sure how to use it. I'm going to make a cylinder and I have used my lathe to make a hole that I now want to ream.

Can anyone explain to me how I should do for best result. The reamer is the one in the pic.
handreamer.jpg
 
That is an adjustable reamer so first thing make sure it is adjusted to the size you need and the blades parallel. drill bore a hole .010 -.015 undersized. use a spring center to align the reamer and a tap wrench to feed it in.
tin
 
Looking at your photo the one visible cutting edge has several burrs which will marr the finish of your bore.
You will get a much better finish boring in your lathe , use a boring bar with a radiused tip and slow feed.
 
I have no spring center so I used the reamer in my mill. I think I can get even better result with my reamer because the cylinder got a little bit "wavy". It's hardly I can feel it but the "waves" are there.

Now, what to do to get rid of the wavy structure?
 
Drilling removes material a roughing operation .
Boring also removes material but rounds and trues the hole
reaming is a finishing semi fishing operation finishes to sise.
lapping smooths out the imperfections.
Tin
 
Drilling removes material a roughing operation .
Boring also removes material but rounds and trues the hole
reaming is a finishing semi fishing operation finishes to sise.
lapping smooths out the imperfections.
Tin

Thanks I will try that :)

Here you can see the "not perfect" cylinder.
cylinder.jpg
 
If the drilled hole is off, this is the profile a reamer will follow. It pays to have a drill grinding jig so that at least the starting point is reasonable. Also smaller drills have a greater tendency to flex and move off line. If the drilling apparatus is sturdy enough it is better to drill to size rather than use a series of step ups.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob
 
Peter,
Hand reamers have a tapered 'tip' so need to be inserted a fair way in to get a parallel hole.
Hand reamers should be fed slowly & evenly & should never be reversed.
You should be able to get a very good parallel finish to the bore with the reamer. Only minor lapping should be necessary if at all.
IMO adjustable reamers miss the point as their design introduces variables. At the least they need to be very well made, which yours is not - as another poster pointed out there are burrs [ or rough looking edges on the blades ] You should hone these off.
A spring center is very easily made & can also be used for tapping.
cheers,
Leonard
 
I have no spring center so I used the reamer in my mill. I think I can get even better result with my reamer because the cylinder got a little bit "wavy". It's hardly I can feel it but the "waves" are there.

Now, what to do to get rid of the wavy structure?

Hi,

If you have a lathe I'd chuck the cylinder in the 4 jaws with the end flush with the chuck body, indicate it true and then using a very sharp and stiff boring tool try and bring the hole to true taking very light cuts you can then use a wooden dowel and some paste to lap it . I had the same problem with the flame eater engine when I made it a couple of years ago.

Good luck.

A.G
 
Thanks for all advice!
I'm now lapping the cylinder so it shine like a mirror. Unfortunately the wavy structure make me to lap for a long time. But I don't care, I can lap several hours if it's necessary (therapy :) )
The cylinder looks really good so I really want to keep it.
 

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