Coles Hit & Miss REDUX

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Tony,

Fantastic. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
Thanks Bob,

Does anybody have any pinstriping tricks? Flywheel is pretty easy, I just put a fine paint pen in the tool post of the lathe and chuck the FW touch the pen to the FW, hand turn the chuck....perfect! I'll even think about decals if I could find them that small. Or I'm thinking of just pinstriping the FW and that's it. On my avatar engine I painted the pinstripe color first then used chart pack tape to mask and then the green finish color. Pain in the butt method!

Tony
 
Hi Tony
Great looking engine ,like the color, i think you can get pens to do lining of differant widths
Regards Rob
 
cobra428 said:
Does anybody have any pinstriping tricks? Flywheel is pretty easy, I just put a fine paint pen in the tool post of the lathe and chuck the FW touch the pen to the FW, hand turn the chuck....perfect! I'll even think about decals if I could find them that small. Or I'm thinking of just pinstriping the FW and that's it. On my avatar engine I painted the pinstripe color first then used chart pack tape to mask and then the green finish color. Pain in the butt method!

Tony

You can buy a Beugler pinstriping tool if you have Very deep pockets. Or you can get a cheapo version called the Master Pinstriper. Comes with a greater variety of wheels than the Beugler, but is plastic and not bright and shiny. A quick Google search and I cannot see it. When I get home in a couple of weeks I will get the information off the packet if you still need it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle, but presently in Saudi Arabia

 
Steamdave thanks,
I did buy a beugler many years ago. Works great if you are doing a car with 1/4" stripes. 1/64 wheel makes a 3/64 stripe (not so bad). The difficulty comes when you want to meet up with lines at 90 deg or so. Hard to see when the stripe will begin or end. On the FW's a heavy stripe don't look so bad but on the frame and cyl it's too big (need a true 1/64 or 1/32). I'm a thinks it's my other method of putting down a stripe then masking it with chart-pak tape then a coat of the main color to trim down the line. Lots of dry time and X-Acto knife work.
I guess I'll be getting more work done on my other WIP the Whittle V8 whilst I wait on the paint to dry
Tony
 
Hiya Ton, I know that the purists will have me drawn and quartered for suggesting this, but would using automotive pinstriping tape suit your purposes? Apply the desired design and burnish well, Allow the adhesive to setup/cure for a couple of days and then shoot a clear coat/sealer over the whole thing. Or find some pre-printed decals and apply them before a clear coat application. If you do decide to utilize the tape, take it very easy on the corner radii as if they are made too abrupt they will have tendency to lift or curl from being over tensioned. Other than that or having a professional sign painter/striper do the work it seems that a lot of X-acto knife and adhesive sheeting is in your future.

BC1
Jim
 
Hey BC1,
Yeh I've used the "sticky" stripping tape on my planes in the past. I don't know if they go down to the thickness I'm looking for. No more painted engines after this one :big:. Polished Alum and black oxide or gun blue from now on for me th_bs. I'll get to work on the other engine (not painted) while I wait for the paint to dry! It's just a pain to be doing 2 projects at once. I have the tools out for the H/M and the tools out on the bench for the V8. Every tool I own will be out on the bench soon. Rof} It's not funny, just a mess.
Tony
 
Well a little more work done tonight and I do mean a little. Broke out the Beugler pin stripping giz and here we go. The equipment hipo to load "gun"

IMG_0297.jpg


Gun mounted to tool post with rubber bands
IMG_0299.jpg


Going in for the kill
IMG_0298.jpg


The kill
IMG_0300.jpg


Looking good
IMG_0303.jpg


Started the Hardware thing...Studs and Nuts
IMG_0301.jpg


Now the thing I look forward to the most (10 min. of paint 2 hrs. of cleaning :rant:)
IMG_0304.jpg

Thank God for Wonton soup Rof}

Tomorrow the Black Stripe
Tony

 
Tony,
That came out great! I never thought of using the lathe!

If you can find the designs you want you can reduce them and print on special paper. Soak the paper and the image stays. They you apply to the model and you have your decal. I want to say photo style paper but I will look it up and let you know.

Sean
 
Hi Seanol,
I know the stuff you are talking about. Micro-Mark sells it. It's decal paper. You can print on it with a color printer and then water transfer it, like plastic model stuff. Good idea :bow:
Tony
 
Thanks steamdave,
It's a good tool, the operater is the problem. I do some really nice practice work on carboard. When I pick up an engine piece......the knees start to knock and the palms get all sweaty :big:
Tony
 
Tony,

That's a wonderous paint job. :bow: As one, who as a painter, I would make a good butcher. I can only admire your work. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
Thanks Bob,
I had many years of butchering paint jobs on model airplanes before I learned. Stay tuned, the black stripe will go on tonight. Then the stripes on the cyl sides (I will have to have a couple of Bourbons before to calm the nerves) :big:
Tony
 
Well, a very disappointing night. Put the black stripe on the flywheel and it looked like dodo. Wish I could of taken a pic but the camera was upstairs and I was in the basement and wanted to erase (with the retarders) the ugly mess I made before it had time to set up. The stripping with the black and white looked good but not for that era of an engine. Then I attempted the cyl stripping :wall: tried once and ugh cleaned it with the retarders again, tried again ugh.....cleaned and tried...... Cylinder started to turn pink :wall: :idea: maybe I should sand the paint then stripe this way "maybe" the tool won't skip and I won't have to go over it and start to form blobs on the stripe. Well I sanded the cyl and repainted it red. Drying now
Sorry for my ramblings just want to get the bling over, run it again and put it on the bookshelf, go back to what I really like.....making chips. Time for the tried and true method "masking tape". Then to hope for not having a paint incompatibility issue! God forbid!
Tony
 
Well, more studs made tonight. I gave up on the cyl pinstripe thing. I masked with an automotive "clean line" tape. After removing the tape I had paint bleeding under the overlap spots even though I worked the tape down into the seams. Oh Well!!

IMG_0308.jpg


IMG_0309.jpg

Not showing the bleeding, I wanted to get the paint off quick, no time for a camera!

All studded and nutted up!
IMG_0317.jpg

Almost time for the Permitex and Loctite

Tony
 
Man you guys are making me wont to start mine.

Looks Great!
 
Looking good so far Ton', What about that clear sheet mask that Micro Mark sell. You know the stuff that you can supposedly use on compound surfaces etc. They show it being applied putting down a camoflage scheme on a plane wing. Have you tried any of that?


BC1
Jim
 
BC1,
Your right, I didn't think of that. I think it can be gotten in an art store too, Frisket paper it called. And the funny thing, I might have some from the Model Airplane days.

Jeff02,
So start it!! ;)

Tony
 
after applying the masking tape give the area a thin coat of clear lacquer(make sure it is compatable with the paint you will be using for the final colour).Thia lacquer will seal the tiny gaps that cause the bleeding and if any clear lacquer does seep under the tape it will not show.After removing the tape use a couple of extra coats of clear to seal it all up.

best regards Steve c.
 
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