Briggs & Stratton 6S - A Beginnig

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flyingtractors1

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WOW, Bill !!! I just saw your video on Youtube. OH MY GOODNESS! I am Amazed - Blown away! Your work of mechanical art reminded me of the story about Michael Angelo when asked how could he sculpt such a beautiful elephant. His response was, " First - find a block of marble, then remove all the parts that don't look like an elephant." I have followed your build and praise you thoroughly. :bow: :bow: :bow: Congratulations! And thanks for sharing. Ralph
 

Deanofid

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Gee, it's beautiful, Bill. A real masterpiece. Yes, I want to see it run, but I could just look at the pictures all day!

Dean
 

90LX_Notch

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Bill-

This has been a great build. I can't wait to see it run. :bow: :bow: :bow:

-Bob
 

kcraig51

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I haven't check on your progress lately. Again WOW is all I can say. The crankshaft just blows my mind. I've been a machinist and small engine tech for 25 yrs. I've never seen such a well done model (I should say piece of art). I can't imagine the amount of patience it's taken on this project. I would have threw up my hands and quit long ago. Thanks for sharing the build!
 

vcutajar

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That slideshow on utube was just amazing. th_confused0052
 

b.lindsey

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Again guys, thanks for all the nice comments. Made a little progress over the weekend on the ignition system. The spark plug clip and ground connector both had to be soldered to the respective leads and shrink tubing applied (photo 1). Then a cutout in the bottom of the ignition box was made to allow for routing of the spark and ground wires and the hall sensor connector with the hope of keeping all the wires somewhat neat and hidden (photo 2). The wires extending out of the top of the box are for charging the batteries and the on/off switch and will normally just be kept inside the box though I think I will make a small "L" bracked to mount the switch to the inside of the box above the batteries. Finally (photo 3) the hall sensor and it's plastic housing were mounted to the plate with silicone adhesive which seems to have worked well. The leads from the hall sensor will be routed along the plate and inside the shroud and exit through a slot near the bottom of the shroud again for asthetic reasons. Just want to make sure there isn't a chance for it contact the flywheel which would not be good!! This evening I will drill the back side of the flywheel to accept the small 1/8" dia. magnet. The the ignition system can be tested and timing set. Thanks for checking in.



Ignition 001.jpg


Ignition 002.jpg


Ignition 003.jpg
 

metalmad

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Absolutely awe inspiring :bow:
Can not wait for first pop
Pete
 

b.lindsey

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Not a lot to report today, I did get the second bolt made last evening for holding the crankcase to the base which is a bit of a trick to install. The small relief just above the mounting tab on the front of the crankcase proved to be necessary as it was on the original engine. I have been scrounging around for a compass (the magnetic type) in oder to determine the south pole of the magnet which actuates the hall sensor. One of the professors here at work came to the rescue so tonight the magnet can be installed into the flywheel with the correct orientation and the system cautiously checked out. More to come but getting closer.

Bill
 

b.lindsey

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Semi-short update on progress. The back side of the flywheel was drilled and the magnet mounted flush with the back surface (photo 1). Meanwhile the slow process of routing the hall sensor wiring harness down along the inside of the plate behind the flywheel was done in several steps, tacking it to the plate with silicone in three places (photo 2). A small slot near the bottom of the shroud will let the wires exit hopefully without looking too bad. Along with the ignition system I also bought the timing tester which shows via LED and buzzer when the hall effect sensor "trips" as the magnet passes. Photo 3 shows this at the point where the LED switched on though it may be hard to tell that. The good news is that everything seems to be working properly thus far. Again, while waiting for the RTV silicone to "dry" I made a small angle bracket for the ignition on/ofof switch and mounted it to the side of the box (photo 4).

Ignition 004.jpg


Ignition 005.jpg


Ignition 006.jpg


Ignition 007.jpg
 

b.lindsey

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Lastly for now...I tried to neaten up the inside of the box some, covering the battery cast with a layer of foam and putting two layers of foam under neath the ignition module. The wire lengths are still a bit long but can be coiled up and zip tied later to neaten thing up even more. The only pigtail that should be needed on a regular basis is the lead to the battery charger. This is shown in the last photo. On now to checking to make sure there is spark and getting the timing set.

Ignition 008.jpg
 

vcutajar

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Bill

Nearly there. Looking forward to see it running.

Vince
 

b.lindsey

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Yep, getting close Vince....and as a short post script...it does have spark so that means the ignition system is fully functioning!!!

Bill
 

b.lindsey

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One last picture of the shroud with its attachment bolts and the cutout lower down for the hall sensor leads to exit and a little better routing of the ground wire and spark plug cable. I hope this evening to add some oil to the crancase, wet the tank, and see what happens initially. Certainly not expecting a perfect trial but we'll see what happens.



Ignition 009.jpg
 

kustomkb

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All the best with tonight's trial Bill.

Outstanding craftsmanship. It looks really great!
 
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