Briggs & Stratton 6S - A Beginnig

[b.lindsey]

Thanks guys for checking in. Here are a few more pictures from last night that I'm just getting posted.Now that the crankshaft is installed semi-permanently, I added the oil seals to both sides (pictures 1 & 2), the pulley (picture 3), and the faux points and condenser cover (behind the flywheel) along with the flywheel and starter hub (picture 4).

 

[b.lindsey]

The last two from last night show the reinstallation of the breather assembly and the small brass baffle. More to come today.

 

[NickG]

Beautiful! Have been waiting for this moment! :bow:

 

[b.lindsey]

Thanks Nick. Last two pictures for today. First is of the governor assembly attached, and second one is of the valve cover installed. Need to do a little finish work on the cylinder head tomorrow and then it should be ready to test compression.The gas tank/carb and muffler are ready to hang on to the block so if the compression tests out ok the last bit will be installing the ignition system (mainly locating and mounting the hall sensor behind the back edge of the fluwheel) and setting timing.

 

[rake60]

I have been collecting and restoring antique Briggs engines for 2 decades now.

Many parts have become impossible to find.
Truth is, my home hobby machine shop was assembled to make the parts I needed
but couldn't find for my restorations. The model engine building thing came along later.

Bill I recognize every part you have made.
If this model thing doesn't work out and you can make those parts full scale, I have a list
of fellow restorers who are looking for parts!

Beautiful craftsmanship on every detail! Thm:

(I still have the 1930's Briggs Model Y in the basement)

Rick

 

[Deanofid]

It's really great watching this one go together, Bill. It's been my favorite thread for a good long while,
and now that it's looking like it will be done soon, I know I'll miss it.
When it fires up, I'll be wishing it could be POM again. It's definitely top grade!

Dean

 

[b.lindsey]

Rick and Dean, thanks so much to both of you for your help and support throughout. I just feel bad that it has taken so long but other equally pleasurable things have needed to take a front seat at times, including a second grandbaby (and first grandson) Davis Daniel Fry this past Nov 25. Proud grandpa pictures below if I may hijack the thread for one post ;D Lindsey Page back in Oct during Cotton Ginning Days Festival and Davis on his birthday.

 

[b.lindsey]

And a P.S. for Rick... If this one runs without too many issues...I am still definitely interested in the Model "Y".

 

[b.lindsey]

So.....being new to IC and such...could some of you experienced IC'ers tell me if the pictured set up will work for compression testing? I found a nylon "hook up" set at the local auto parts store that had the tubing, and several assorted 1/8 NPT and 1/4 NPT ends, tubing ferrules, etc. one of which fits the back connector on the gage and one of which I turned down and rethreaded to the 1/4-32 spark plug thread size. So if I conect the spark plug end into the cylinder head as shown (with teflon tape) and check the compression stroke and hold it at TDC, will this give me useful information. If so I can order a gage in the 0-30 or 0-60 psi range for better resolution. If not then I am only out about $7.99 for the hook-up set. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[gbritnell]

Hi Bill,
A compression check is usually done by having the engine turn over through several compression strokes to get peak compression. This eliminates and false readings from leakage. For this you need some type of check valve in the line to hold the compression. The next problem is the check valve needs to be right at the end of the line (near the head) so that the extra volume from the line doesn't add to the combustion chamber volume. I made a checker for my small engines but I can't tell you if the readings were good or not. They always seemed to be much lower than what is required for combustion (35-45 lbs.) so I quit checking them and just used seat-of-the-pants checking. Turn it over and if it felt like it was bumping against compression then it must be good.
gbritnell

 

[b.lindsey]

George, thanks for the info. and that makes sense as far as determining peak compression. I was wondering too though if building compression during one compression stroke and seing how fast the leakage occurs might say anything as to valve seating, ring bypass, etc. Just an idle question more out of ignorance than anything.

Bill

 

[b.lindsey]

One of the other "leftover" things that needed to be done was contouring the underside of the cylinder head to blend in the .125" deep pockets around the valve heads with the .0625 deep recess over the cylinder. After much careful filing, dremel-ing, and then last night using a felt buff with clover compound, it looks more like it should. I fit the gasket on and attached the head to the cylinder and turned it over a few times. The valves need a little more seating or lapping in but the rings seem to be ok since after removing the head and placing my hand over just the cylinder i was getting good compression. Will be working on the valve seating today and this evening and once that is resolved, assembly can proceed.

 

[b.lindsey]

Getting closer now....as it turned out the valve seating wasn't the issue, the intake valve had some interference with the cylinder head and was sticking open, which doesn't do much for compression obviously. A little more work of the underside of the head on the intake side to add clearance for the valve and some additional cosmetic blending and polishing due to above problem and wanting the transition from the valve areas to the cylinder area as smooth as possible. and it was ready to try again. This did the trick and as George noted a few posts back I could feel the compression and if i spun the flywheel fast enough it would "bounce" back once it neared TDC on the compression stroke. Obviously there could be numerous problems...will it actually suck gas up the dip tube from the tank? Are the rings sealing well enough? Will the carburetor work? Etc, etc. But at least aside from making one more bolt, a spring from the governor to the butterfly valve, and some sort of throttling method the fabrication work is finally done. Today and this weekend I will be working on the ignition system, timing, etc. A few pictures of everything put together follow. I can almost smell the exhaust fumes already...

 

[NickG]

It is mind bogglingly good! Amazing achievement :bow:

 

[dalem9]

Wonderful work You should be very proud . Dale

 

[gbritnell]

Bill,
I don't know what else to say but beautiful job my friend. It has taken a long time but well worth the time and effort.
gbritnell

 

[ozzie46]

Absolutely amazing!! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

As George has said there isn't anything else that I can say to express myself adequately.

Thanks for the journey. It has been an incredible ride. I have picked up so many little tid bits of techniques along the way. Thank you.


Ron

 

[arnoldb]

Bill, that little beauty is simply gorgeous assembled up :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Your build is a prime example of true model engineering from inception to finish :bow:

Now then, when's the fuel hitting the tank ? ;D

Kind regards, Arnold

 

[dreeves]

What A build :bow: . I have been following it from the start. All I can say is we want a video

Dave

 

[b.lindsey]

Gentlemen, thanks to all of you for the nice comments. If all goes well then the weekend should put things very near a first attempt trial so I'll report more when that happens but its a lot closer than when things started off now more than 2 years ago. I did put together an 8 minute or so montage of pictures throughout the build which was kind of fun for me....call it the reader's digest version of these 50+ pages in pictures. When the time comes though, there will most definitely be a video. Needless to say I will b e one happy camper when this thing runs!!

For any interested, the video can be seen here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwdmxqZnvSw