How do I get the post on my mini milling perpendicular to the milling table? The degree scale can get it close but not exact as when I have to do several cult across a work piece I get small ridges on the surface. I figured out how to do it on my Unimat 3, just screw on the face plate and then rest the milling head on the lathe bed, but How do I get the milling head on my larger milling machine (micromart mini milling machine) perpendicular to the milling table?
Beginner: Trueing Milling machine post
- Thread starter Deck Dog
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Basically, you put an indicator in the spindle, and swing it from side to side measuring the difference
on the mill table.
It's called tramming. This page has an illustration that will give you the idea easier than typing it all out,
and he tells how to do it on a mill similar to yours:
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/MillTram.html
There are a couple of articles about it on this site. One of us will have to go digging in the search to
find them. I think the link will tell you what you need to know.
Dean
on the mill table.
It's called tramming. This page has an illustration that will give you the idea easier than typing it all out,
and he tells how to do it on a mill similar to yours:
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/MillTram.html
There are a couple of articles about it on this site. One of us will have to go digging in the search to
find them. I think the link will tell you what you need to know.
Dean
Here's another one that shows it in use:
http://www.finelinehair.com/home/tramming_the_mill.htm
You don't need a fancy rig like the one that's show. Just a piece of rod bent at about 90°, one end chucked up, and your indicator clamped to the other end.
Dean
http://www.finelinehair.com/home/tramming_the_mill.htm
You don't need a fancy rig like the one that's show. Just a piece of rod bent at about 90°, one end chucked up, and your indicator clamped to the other end.
Dean
Thanks for the help. I guess I better get up on the correct terminology in this new hobby I am getting into.
I must say I am glad I found this site as I have received lots of help so far. I even got some easy plans for a first time steam engine which I have started. I don't guarantee it will work whe I finish but I have to start somewhere.
I must say I am glad I found this site as I have received lots of help so far. I even got some easy plans for a first time steam engine which I have started. I don't guarantee it will work whe I finish but I have to start somewhere.
Hi Deck Dog,
I'm very new to machining too and I have just done this task on my bridgeport mill. It took me a while to get it all sorted. A bit like setting up a 4 jaw chuck for the first time! One thing I did find which is obvious once you think about it, is to make absolutely sure that when you do the front to back adjustment and the left to right adjustment you are absolutely at the north south and east west postions relative to the spindle center with your dial indicator. If not absolutely in line, then either north south or east west adjustments will affect the dial readings, not what you want.
Good luck with you mill adjustment,
Nick
I'm very new to machining too and I have just done this task on my bridgeport mill. It took me a while to get it all sorted. A bit like setting up a 4 jaw chuck for the first time! One thing I did find which is obvious once you think about it, is to make absolutely sure that when you do the front to back adjustment and the left to right adjustment you are absolutely at the north south and east west postions relative to the spindle center with your dial indicator. If not absolutely in line, then either north south or east west adjustments will affect the dial readings, not what you want.
Good luck with you mill adjustment,
Nick
Okay I have managed to tram my milling machine in one direction, the left right axix (east west??) so now how to I tram the milling machine along the other axix, fwd aft (north south??) It is a m Micromart mini milling machine. The mounting for the post is attached to the bed via two bolts. The manual that came with the machine is rather sparse as to the calibration of the milling machine and operetion.
zeeprogrammer
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I'm new too. Just started a little over a year ago.
Tramming in X is most important but can be done by moving the column left/right. Sounds like you have that one down.
Y is much tougher. I haven't done it yet. For the distances involved, I'm not sure how worthwhile it is. Some people have shimmed. Others have stiffened by putting a plate on the back.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Tramming in X is most important but can be done by moving the column left/right. Sounds like you have that one down.
Y is much tougher. I haven't done it yet. For the distances involved, I'm not sure how worthwhile it is. Some people have shimmed. Others have stiffened by putting a plate on the back.
Sorry I can't be more help.
I can only refer to my mill which has two bolts on the head, the central pivot\mounting bolt, and, directly under it, the locking bolt which holds the head at the desired angle. If your mill is like this, then depending on how far out you are on the Y axis, you do have a couple of thou play in the "For\Aft" alignment in how tight you torque the locking bolt. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Chazz
Cheers,
Chazz
There is no way on that mill to adjust front/back significantly except by shimming the column where it attaches to the base. The other suggestions of stiffening the column or playing with the bolt torque may help slightly. It's designed to be correct "as built," though reality may not always agree with theory.
How true, there was not ONE measurement on my Lathe or Mill inspection sheets from the factory that jibed with the true measurements. But then, a truck trip from factory in China to container ship in Hong Kong, across the Pacific, then off loaded in Vancouver, trucked (in my case) to Calgary, fork lifted to display, forklifted again to a truck to ship to Yellowknife and finally muscelled into position, no wonder things were out-of-wack and a few loose nuts to boot!Mainer said:
Cheers,
Chazz
I can't remember if I have shown this before on here, but here is the reasoning behind getting the tram spot on on your machine. Don't let it scare you, the C-o-C's have been exaggerated to explain the problem.
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2083.msg22206#msg22206
The Y axis tram is just as important as the X axis otherwise you will never be able to achieve perfectly square and flat faces, only a very close approximation, which might be good enough for what you are doing (which it was when I came up with this reply to a question).
The Y axis tram is usually the worst one to get put right, but once done, it can then usually be forgotten about, unless you have a head that can 'nod', but that is usually limited to the larger industrial type machines.
I use a slightly different method for getting the tram right, and if you read the post a bit further, it shows how I achieve it and there are some links, that if followed will show you how to make one.
I hope the helps explain things
Bogs
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2083.msg22206#msg22206
The Y axis tram is just as important as the X axis otherwise you will never be able to achieve perfectly square and flat faces, only a very close approximation, which might be good enough for what you are doing (which it was when I came up with this reply to a question).
The Y axis tram is usually the worst one to get put right, but once done, it can then usually be forgotten about, unless you have a head that can 'nod', but that is usually limited to the larger industrial type machines.
I use a slightly different method for getting the tram right, and if you read the post a bit further, it shows how I achieve it and there are some links, that if followed will show you how to make one.
I hope the helps explain things
Bogs
rudydubya
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Deck Dog, here are two links showing what I did to get my mini-mill aligned.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6007.0
and
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6075.0
Don't know if your mill is the same as mine, but maybe some of what I did or variations suggested by others there will help.
Regards,
Rudy
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6007.0
and
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6075.0
Don't know if your mill is the same as mine, but maybe some of what I did or variations suggested by others there will help.
Regards,
Rudy
Thankyou to everybody as you have all been a great help. The deviations I have in the Y axix are about 0.002".
One more question. I know I have to bolt the milling machine to a soild work surface. What I intend to use is a movable cabinet ( My workshop is running out of space so most of my large tools are on wheels so that I can roll them into a storage area until I want to use them). The cabinet is built out of 3/4 inch lumber with a 3/4" panel reinforcing the center (drawers on two sides, one side for the milling machine and the other side for the lathe). I intend to further reinforce the milling machine side with another centerline panel 90 degrees to the first an to put a 1.5" plank on top of the 3/4" work surface and bolt it in place before I mount the milling machine. Will such a setup be considered strong enough and am I going going in for overkill in the reinforcing of the cabinet? Or would it be better to mount it on a solid floor mounted bench.
Sorry aboput being such a pain in the butt with these questions.
One more question. I know I have to bolt the milling machine to a soild work surface. What I intend to use is a movable cabinet ( My workshop is running out of space so most of my large tools are on wheels so that I can roll them into a storage area until I want to use them). The cabinet is built out of 3/4 inch lumber with a 3/4" panel reinforcing the center (drawers on two sides, one side for the milling machine and the other side for the lathe). I intend to further reinforce the milling machine side with another centerline panel 90 degrees to the first an to put a 1.5" plank on top of the 3/4" work surface and bolt it in place before I mount the milling machine. Will such a setup be considered strong enough and am I going going in for overkill in the reinforcing of the cabinet? Or would it be better to mount it on a solid floor mounted bench.
Sorry aboput being such a pain in the butt with these questions.
AR1911
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My Minimill is bolted to a 2" maple workbench, certainly less solid than the one you describe.
While the ideal is a 3" slab of cast iron, the difference between that and a typical benchtop will only be appreciated by the very best machinists. I'm not one of those, my minimill works fine
While the ideal is a 3" slab of cast iron, the difference between that and a typical benchtop will only be appreciated by the very best machinists. I'm not one of those, my minimill works fine
DD,
For these small machines, a good piece of standard 1.5" or 2" thick piece of kitchen worktop is ideal, especially if it is melamine faced, it is dead easy to clean off oil and dirt at the end of the day. Build a frame or small bench to support the length of the worktop and it will be plenty rigid enough for years to come.
I have been using that method for many years and it hasn't failed me yet.
Or even buy a cheapo kitchen cabinet and mount it onto that. This cabinet cost about 25 bucks, and once screwed to the wall, and sitting on a couple of pieces of wood, easily coped with that heavy lump sat on it. That lump is about three times the weight of a mini lathe.
Bogs
For these small machines, a good piece of standard 1.5" or 2" thick piece of kitchen worktop is ideal, especially if it is melamine faced, it is dead easy to clean off oil and dirt at the end of the day. Build a frame or small bench to support the length of the worktop and it will be plenty rigid enough for years to come.
I have been using that method for many years and it hasn't failed me yet.
Or even buy a cheapo kitchen cabinet and mount it onto that. This cabinet cost about 25 bucks, and once screwed to the wall, and sitting on a couple of pieces of wood, easily coped with that heavy lump sat on it. That lump is about three times the weight of a mini lathe.
Bogs
kellswaterri
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Surely not for trueing up purposes!!! a Sledge hammer And a Stilson wrench... 
:big: :big: :big:
John.
:big: :big: :big:John.
That was a banana shaped mini lathe that I managed to straighten out.
And a piccy to show just how competent I am at using 'proper' engineering tools. You forgot to mention the croppers and a rasp without a handle.
Bogs
And a piccy to show just how competent I am at using 'proper' engineering tools. You forgot to mention the croppers and a rasp without a handle.
Bogs
