Antares 2cc - model diesel engine build

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Olli, It is looking very good so far. As far as the cooling fins go, you do what you have to, it's all a learning curve. With the bore, I aim for 1 thou between the bottom of the cylinder and the exhaust ports, and 0.0001 between the exhaust port and the top of the cylinder. I picked up a bore gauge for checking the bore.


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Thanks Andrew, Mitutoyo is always a mituotoyo 😉 I have Carl-Zeiss Jena comparator for 10-18mm and CCCP one fpr 6-10mm.

I did end up with around 0.0003 (7ish micron) taper above the ports and tried to open the bottom a little more than with the earlier cylinders. It seems to have now about 10micron below the exchaust ports so that could still be opened up a bit I guess.

I’ve worked with the compression screw for the whole weekend now. Turned out to be quite a chore :) But fun to make and lots of new things again like single pointing the thread from the back side of the work with an internal threading tool and a lot of rotary table work also. I will make it from one piece and try to be faithful to the plan because of the aesthetics reasons. Lot of filing still needed but it fits the cooling jacket nicely already.


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That is some very nice work. There's a lot interesting techniques to learn. I note the chucking spud and "backward" boring bar single-point threading.

Finally done with the compression screw. Finished the contour with an angle grinder, rotary tool and assortment of files. Still needs some final touches but I will leave it as is for now.


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There has to be a "polite" way of describing "back-side screwing", or "reverse back-post screwing" but it escapes me... I think you have an excellent demonstration in the photo with the boring thread tool showing how you work from a "setting point" to "free space". Always a good idea when threading as starting (engaging cut) is well defined (can be when stationery, which permits more "time" to do it) and finishing (disengaging cut) is in "free space" - not when you are about to run into a blind end!
The only disadvantage (not a problem for experts, just one to be aware of...).
Technically, the torque required for the cut coming from the head-stock end means we normally approach the headstock, to give "more" metal for transmission from headstock to tool. The reverse, as with back-side screwing, means the metal between tool and headstock has already been reduced in diameter, and with added stress raisers of the thread root, so the torque for the cut is applied to the "weakened stem" of the job. The stress raisers of a thread root can be 3 x, 5x, or even 10x normal stress, this causing premature torque failure at the headstock end of the job as the cut progresses and applies more bending moment to the job. I.E. For the heavy handed, this can break the job! - so take care and lighter cuts than "normal". (0.003" instead of 0.010"?).
Thanks K2! I think your numbers are very close as I did infact take only 0.05mm passes and a double pass every here and there because of the very light PH Horn tool I used. It did cut this soft EN1A steel very nicely.

I started to work with the conrod and drilling the bronze bushing really gave me troubles. So buttef my head against a wall a couple of tries and ended up making the bushing in a lathe. No problem there. Should have done it with a lathe in a first place.

I got also a part II video of the build uploaded to youtube so for the i terested ones theres some more details and pictures plus video to be seen of the build so far:



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Conrod is now done aswell as the wristpin. Started lapping the piston. Not much left before the final assembly.


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