A Ringbom Engine

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Started with the pillars.
pillars3.jpg

Dial in center of pillar to drill 4-40 hole in ends.

pillars4.jpg

Tapping 4-40 holes in ends with my thumb tap wrench.

pillars5.jpg

Holes drilled and slot in sides cut completed.

pillars6.jpg

Drill and ream 5/16 dia crank bearing housing hole.


pillars7.jpg

Holes all drilled.

pillars8.jpg

Mill slots in ends.

pillars9.jpg

Slots completed.

pillars10.jpg

Mill side cuts.

pillars11.jpg

Completed.

hotcylinder.jpg

Single point threads on hot tube 3/4-32.

hotcylinder2.jpg

Check fit with matting part.

Next time I'll continue with the hot tube cylinders.
 
Doc,

Your working at a blistering speed, and perfection!

well done!

Matt
 
Thanks Matt
Working the hot tube cylinders will take some time. Boring and turning 17-4 stainless is a slow process specially when you shoot for a .015 wall thickness. Not exactly sure at how I'm going to approach this one yet.
I'll have to do some thinking on it. I've done it several ways in the past but none with a threaded end on the open end before. Right now I'm thinking bore the ID to finished size and turn up a snug fitting slug for it to put a center in and push it into place and back turn the OD.
 
Great Work so far Doc!

I really like the vertical fins, and your method of clamping the plates together for machining.

I cant quite grasp how exactly your using the DTI in the mill to center the parts in the vice. Is this a method of edge finding? How do you center the DTI to the spindle? I think I may be missing something. Can you elaborate?

Kel
 

That's alot more great work you have done there Doc. Sounds like a good plan for the thin wall too.

If I may;

Kel, if you know the width (distance) of 2 datums you can sweep the dial across the face of the part, zeroing on the high spot. then without moving your zero or bumping the stylus, sweep the other side, until you have zero again. Then note the difference in distance on your DRO or W.H.Y. and splitting this number will give you the centre of the part. Also, this is a good technique for finding the centre of horizontal cylinders if you can repeat the same Z height. (regardless of centre).

Sorry if I am just confusing things, it's late...
 
Thanks Kel and Kevin

What I am doing is the same as you would do centering a block in a 4 jaw on the lathe.
Very similar to this vid I made.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7HhppYHwig]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7HhppYHwig[/ame]
You see I wanted the threaded hole on center of the pillar in x and y axis.
 
Didn't get any shop time during the week and yesterday one thing after another and the day was shot.
I did accomplish one thing yesterday though I did get 3 blades for my band saw welded up. Unfortunately the first one I put on the saw broke right away I didn't get it annealed correctly and it will have to be re-welded. I'll do that tomorrow at work during my dinner break. It only takes about 5 minutes they have a nice blade welder.
Today has been a little better I started on the hot tubes gotten 2 done the 3rd is chucked up waiting to have the ID bored to size. After an early supper I'm going to try and finish it and the 4th one also. I'll post some picture later if I get time.
 
Started with turning up the major dia for 3/4-32 threads.
hotcylinder-1.jpg


Threads single pointed.
hotcylinder2-1.jpg


Double check fit.
hotcylinder3.jpg


Rough drill cylinder Id to depth.
hotcylinder4.jpg


Use an end mill to flatten bottom out.
hotcylinder5.jpg

Finished ID with boring bar and finished flattening bottom. An end mill will not totally flatten a bottom bore as they have about a degree and half clearance back to the center of the end mill.

Added a center plug turned up with center hole and a tapped hole to pull out of cylinder when done. It is a snug fit in bore.
hotcylinder6.jpg

First cut cutting underside of flange with left hand turning tool. Adjusting depth of cut as carriage travels to the right.

Turn back are to the left blending with previous cut.
hotcylinder7.jpg


Part off part with and extra .03 on length to be faced off after.
hotcylinder8.jpg


3 down 1 left to do.
hotcylinder9.jpg


Didn't get the last one done will try and get the last one done during the coming week if I can sneak away for awhile. :hDe:


 
You're sure moving along at a good clip Doc - and doing a very good job indeed in the process Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold
 
I've been under the weather past couple days. It is the first cold related symptoms I've had in a long time. Missed the last couple days of work and still feel like sh*t. I was hoping to get some more done during the week but looks like a no way right now. I have been window shopping on the net though. Looking at a birthday gift to myself.
Thanks for the comments Arnold!
 
Hey Doc, hope you are feeling better or will soon...hope it wasn't some bad turkey. So don't keep us in suspense, what is this birthday gift ??

Regards,
Bill
 
I posted it under window shopping in another thread. I'm hoping it will happen keeping my fingers crossed and Trying to keep the wallet shut until then. :big: :big:
 
Yes, sorry I didn't make the connection...that would be a VERY nice present indeed :)

Bill
 
Well I did get the 4th hot tube cylinder done this afternoon.
I also grabbed a small 1 dia piece of stock (never throw those little drop end pieces away) and made up a spacer sleeve to chuck up the hot tubes and face off the tubes to length.

hotcylinder10.jpg


hotcylinder11.jpg


hotcylinder12.jpg

Load with sleeve into a 1 inch 5c and face ends.

hotcylinder13.jpg

Completed.

hotcylinder14.jpg



Tomorrow I will start the bases for them.
Still feel a little under the weather but a lot better than Monday!


 
Well changed the base a little this morning now its time to go make some chips fly. :big:
It's slowly evolving.
RingbomStirling3-1.jpg
 
Been a good day so far haven't made any major errors so far today (knock on wood).

base.jpg

Sized up some stock and cut to length.

base2.jpg

Scribed out the bottom legs.

base3.jpg

Made first cut to depth. Not moving -y- axis after picking up scribe line.

base4.jpg

Rotated parts 180 degrees and made next cut.

base5.jpg

Now rotated 90 degrees made 3rd cut.

base6.jpg

And again rotated 180 degrees and made 4th cut unfortunately cutter size didn't clean up the center.
Needed to adjust -y- and finish.



base7.jpg

Picked up back jaw and picked up stop basic the corner of the 1-2-3 block and zeroed dials.

base8.jpg

Drilled hole pastern for standards and also lamp hole.

base9.jpg

Flip part to bottom side adjust table to the lamp hole and use a 3/4 end mill plunge in to proper depth

base10.jpg

Now plunge in using a undersized 1inch end mill for a counter bore for the bottom lamp chamber cover.

base11.jpg

Counter bored holes for the standard screws.
Parts are complete for now. I may come back and do some thing with the top edge chamfer radius or some thing we will see.

Grab a bite to eat and go work on the crank disks.
 
I just started to read this build - and I have already learned a lot of great tips and techniques. Great job on the photos - keep up the good work!

I am working on my first project now - a LTD Stirling of Jan Ridders design, but I am already looking for my next project to learn some new skills. Working on an engine with this many photo aids will surely shorten the learning curve.

Maybe I'll only have to build each part twice rather than 3 times ; ;D

Paul
 
Thanks Paul!


Now for this afternoons progress.


crank-disk.jpg

Using some stainless turned up dia and drill crank shaft hole and faced off and asjusted over .007 and feft a .188 dia to ride against center of bearing.

crank-disk2.jpg

bearing side complete ready to face backside to proper width.


crank-disk3.jpg

Now to the mill mounted in a 5c collet block drill and tap 2-56 UNC 2b rod journal mounting hole.


crank-disk4.jpg

Drill counter balance holes.


crank-disk5.jpg

Disks completed.

Next part of and face to length some .125 drill rod for crank shafts.
crank-shaft.jpg


crank-assembly.jpg

Crank assembly.

lamp-tube.jpg

Grabbed some 1/4 brass and turned up end and parted off for lamp tubes.

lamp-tube.jpg

Face parts to length turn shoulder to press into base and drill the wick hole.

lamp-tube3.jpg

Put one into base just to see how it looks.

lamp-tube4.jpg

All 4 done.

assembly.jpg

Couldn't resist putting some parts together temporarily to see what we have.
I'm liking what I see.

Tomorrow I'll start with the power cylinder mount collar till then.
Was a pretty good day! No broken tools all fingers still in place and no major errors can't beat that.
 
Seems I've just been talking to myself ??? :big: :big:
Oh well I continue on.
I do have the PDF drawing file is almost completed with the corrections I came across in the shop so that part is about done. Only a few parts to complete and they will be completed.
Back out to the shop to see what I can mess up today I'm over due for something to go wrong.
 
Your are not just talking to yourself Doc.
Over 70 views per day since you started this thread.
A lot of us just following along with out saying anything.
I am enjoying the thread.
Gail in NM
 

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