This is one of the most fascinating designs I have seen in a long time. I am really looking forward to seeing this run.---Brian
32x40 H Gas engine
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Seen my uncles next door(machineshop) machine split bush bearing for big circular saws from raw bronze castings. Casting came in two halves,with mating surface shaped flat and joined back with soft soft solder and turned on the Overhead Pulley Drive Lathe.Only inside and outside Calipers were used. No Mikes yet.These uncles have never seen any micrometers. No HSS Cutting Tools. Just Carbon Steel Tools which they forged in house over a smithy forge.
This was way back in 1955 when I was a 8 year old kid.
Every machine tool(lathes,shapers.jig borers and drill press) was driven by the overhead pulley drive with a 30 hp motor.
This was way back in 1955 when I was a 8 year old kid.
Every machine tool(lathes,shapers.jig borers and drill press) was driven by the overhead pulley drive with a 30 hp motor.
Brian40
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To lubricate the big end a drip feed oiler will feed oil onto the outer side of the crank web then centrifugal force will spin it into the collector ring and pass it to the big end.
Good lube with less mess I hope.
Brian.
Good lube with less mess I hope.
Brian.
Won't that make for a very "messy" engine when running it?
Brian40
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The engine is going to have an enclosed crankcase the idea was to get a good lube without splash feed. the amount of oil will be similar to the type with a cup on the big end but I will not have to stop the engine to refill the cup. a second oiler will lube the bore and the cam will be lube'd by a felt pad under the cam
Brian.
Brian.
If I was building that engine, I would want all of those beautiful moving parts exposed. Lots of nifty motion to be seen there.
Brian40
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Hi Brian.
I agree the valve gear will be open ,and the crank will have a clip on cover for when I want to run the engine for longer periods. the engine in my avatar used a similar cover but that one was splash feed so the cover was very necessary and the motor ran for long periods at a time without attention.
I agree the valve gear will be open ,and the crank will have a clip on cover for when I want to run the engine for longer periods. the engine in my avatar used a similar cover but that one was splash feed so the cover was very necessary and the motor ran for long periods at a time without attention.
Brian40
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Today was the day for the fiddly bits. fitting the pins to the connecting rod. and balancing the crank.
only the threads on the ends of the main shaft to retain the flywheels and the keyway's to do and the crank can be assembled and pinned.
Brian.
only the threads on the ends of the main shaft to retain the flywheels and the keyway's to do and the crank can be assembled and pinned.
Brian.
Where are we at on this fascinating engine? I had to take a real close look today to determine that it was going to be water cooled, but you must be planning on a remote reservoir with a pump for circulation---Is that right?---Brian
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Hi Brian
Just back from cold and windy Scotland to find Sicily freezing, nearly all the local's have outside water tanks and pipes so lot's of problems. when we restored our house we put everything inside so we are ok.
I am working on two systems for the engine, one thermo syphon, and one pumped, I think the thermo syphon will be first to prove the motor then we will see.
Picked up the 1/2" UNF nuts for the crank so the next job will be threading the ends of the shaft and cutting the keyway's.
Glad you are finding it interesting . Brian.
Just back from cold and windy Scotland to find Sicily freezing, nearly all the local's have outside water tanks and pipes so lot's of problems. when we restored our house we put everything inside so we are ok.
I am working on two systems for the engine, one thermo syphon, and one pumped, I think the thermo syphon will be first to prove the motor then we will see.
Picked up the 1/2" UNF nuts for the crank so the next job will be threading the ends of the shaft and cutting the keyway's.
Glad you are finding it interesting . Brian.
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Beautiful and beefy engine.
Granted that it will be a slow revving engine but I wander if those long rocker arms may have quite a bit of inertia to follow the cam.
Granted that it will be a slow revving engine but I wander if those long rocker arms may have quite a bit of inertia to follow the cam.
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Hi Mauro
In the original design I was going to use bronze rockers so that I could have flat slippers on the cam . then I came to the same conclusion that the inertia may be to high so I have changed to alloy rockers with roller followers ( see post 27 ) the rockers are only 10 cm long over all so a alloy I or T shape will do the job I think, if not I will uprate the springs a little.
Thanks for the input much appreciated.
Brian.
In the original design I was going to use bronze rockers so that I could have flat slippers on the cam . then I came to the same conclusion that the inertia may be to high so I have changed to alloy rockers with roller followers ( see post 27 ) the rockers are only 10 cm long over all so a alloy I or T shape will do the job I think, if not I will uprate the springs a little.
Thanks for the input much appreciated.
Brian.
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It's the day !! go for broke and put the crank together.
When I made the shaft I left a area in the centre that will form flanges in between the webs and this will be used to keep every thing in line during the gluing process.
First the pin. then the shaft held hard up to the flange. and finally the second web held in a similar way. a hour was allowed between each stage. and the parts kept Hand warm because my shop is cold at the moment.
The crank will now be left until tomorrow, when I will think about pinning it.
Brian.
When I made the shaft I left a area in the centre that will form flanges in between the webs and this will be used to keep every thing in line during the gluing process.
First the pin. then the shaft held hard up to the flange. and finally the second web held in a similar way. a hour was allowed between each stage. and the parts kept Hand warm because my shop is cold at the moment.
The crank will now be left until tomorrow, when I will think about pinning it.
Brian.
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Hi Brian,
Congrats. 0.01mm equals 0.0004'' is a fantastic run out. On the old Ingersoll-Rand 100 hp compressors I get 1/2---1 thou. In 60s and 70s dial gage reading of 0.0005 has yet to appear in Singapore.
Will monkey see.monkey do , using your method.
Congrats. 0.01mm equals 0.0004'' is a fantastic run out. On the old Ingersoll-Rand 100 hp compressors I get 1/2---1 thou. In 60s and 70s dial gage reading of 0.0005 has yet to appear in Singapore.
Will monkey see.monkey do , using your method.
Brian40
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Thanks Gus
I started with my inch gauge that has a resolution of one thou per division. and thought that cant be right so I changed to the metric that reads ,01 per div and it confirmed it. you can imagine how I felt !!!
you may also be interested in the set up for milling out the centre.
at first the crank was between the dividing head and a centre, all seemed ok but I was concerned what might happen when the cutter broke through,
so I changed to the Jacobs chuck to ensure that it was all under control.
Brian.
I started with my inch gauge that has a resolution of one thou per division. and thought that cant be right so I changed to the metric that reads ,01 per div and it confirmed it. you can imagine how I felt !!!
you may also be interested in the set up for milling out the centre.
at first the crank was between the dividing head and a centre, all seemed ok but I was concerned what might happen when the cutter broke through,
so I changed to the Jacobs chuck to ensure that it was all under control.
Brian.
Brian40
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Now on with the piston. the blank had been made and lapped to the liner.
so the next job was to drill the hole for the wrist pin so it was set up in the mill vice to keep it nice and square then drilled and reamed .
the skirt area was then turned to size before returning to the mill to relieve the area for the small end.
I have not ordered the ring's for this yet and I am wondering if it really needs them the piston is a perfect fit in the bore iron on iron there should be no expansion problems ,,, small CI engines run without rings and at higher compression than this is going to have Only 4-1.
when put together and you put your hand over the end no leakage can be heard past the piston it just blows your hand off the end. well time to play later.
Brian.
so the next job was to drill the hole for the wrist pin so it was set up in the mill vice to keep it nice and square then drilled and reamed .
the skirt area was then turned to size before returning to the mill to relieve the area for the small end.
I have not ordered the ring's for this yet and I am wondering if it really needs them the piston is a perfect fit in the bore iron on iron there should be no expansion problems ,,, small CI engines run without rings and at higher compression than this is going to have Only 4-1.
when put together and you put your hand over the end no leakage can be heard past the piston it just blows your hand off the end. well time to play later.
Brian.
If you find that it doesn't have sufficient compression to run with no rings, you could just put one single Viton o-ring on the piston. That's what I do, and they seal perfectly, right from the word go. I have never had much success with cast iron rings.---Brian
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