Brian does Ridders flame eater

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I have a graphite piston
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_JJigmCPZA[/ame]
 
I must have got up on the right side of the bed this morning, because today I have a runner. The only thing different from my previous attempts to make this engine run is that I squirted some WD40 into the cylinder before I tried to run it. I am using methyl hydrate (gasline anti-freeze) for fuel. Nothing has been changed mechanically since I finished the engine earlier this week. I have a stick of machinable graphite on order to make a new valve and piston from, which will replace the current cast iron piston and valve. Oh, I am so happy. There is nothing worse than building an engine and knowing that you've done everything right, and then the engine won't run!!---Brian
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tI774Sg3AwE&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
Okay--Now that I have a runner (Hooray-Hooray), all of those who contacted me about buying the plans in imperial (inch) format, now is the time. Keep in mind--this engine was designed by Jan Ridders in metric. All I have done is convert everything to inch sizes including fasteners and stock material sizes. I will sell complete plans and material lists in Inch format for $25 Canadian funds. You are not buying a Brian Rupnow original design. Contact me with your real email address, and send whatever translates to $25 Canadian currency to my paypal account at [email protected] and I will send you all of the engineering drawings as .pdf files.
 
Brian, I have been looking at the plans from the photos in the post and I see that it says to ream the 7/8 cylinder hole. since I don't have a 7/8 reamer and don't have o1 large enough to make a dbit reamer, would boring with the largest boring tool that will fit the hole for rigidity work ok? considering its going to be honed and then lapped?

also I have some 303 stainless that should be large enough, do you think 303 would be ok for the cylinder? and lastly do you have more photos of you machining the flywheel in the lathe? I have a large chuck of new to me bronze that I will have to saw down get it in there but wanted to see how you started out holding it. was it sawn to just about the right thickness then chucked from the outside, make once side then flip and chuck to the center snout on the flywheel to get the outside and the other face?
 
You can bore the hole. Just use the largest drill you have that is under 7/8" diameter then bore to finished size. I used 316 stainless because it is truly rust proof. You can use 303, it won't really make any difference. I have no more pictures of machining the flywheel, but you have the right idea.
 
Who is Raymond Monohan? He just set me $25 by Paypal and I have no idea of who he is or what engine plan he wants.---nevermind--I got it sorted out.
 
Last edited:
werowance said:
Brian, can I ask where you got your bearings from? and do you by chance have any part numbers?
Click to expand...
See post #41. Two bearings are #6882RS. I just called Canadian Bearings where I bought mine to get the other part number which you can't see on the box and who the manufacturer was. I will post it as soon as I get it.
 
THE bearings I used were #693-2Z and 688-2RS from KML. They were wider than I initially planned on, but the detail drawings have been altered to accommodate the wider bearings. I will update my bearing information in the drawings.---Brian
 
I had to go out for an hour this morning.--Wouldn't you know it, when I got back, there was a note on my door from FedEx, saying that no-one was home to receive the shipment, but they would try again tomorrow!!! I'm thinking that is my stick of machinable graphite.
 
My machineable graphite came in this morning, so I immediately took it into the machine-shop and made a piston and a valve. It is incredibly filthy stuff, as the picture testifies, but machines very easy. Everything I had read about machineable graphite recommends using carbide tooling to cut it, and maybe for a great deal of machining this may be so. For the little bit of machining I had to do, HSS tooling worked fine.
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