Would like a quick-to-change chuck that fits in 3/8 R-8 collet...how to?

[Bolster]

My mill's 5/8-capacity drill chuck is mounted on an R-8 to JT6 arbor that requires lots of Z-axis movement whenever I switch from milling to drilling. That's a pain on a Sieg X-3 which has a geared-down Z-axis. Lots of cranking. What I would really like, is a nice, medium-small 3/8"-capacity Rohm chuck and mount it on a "stub arbor" (probably not using that terminology correctly) that would fit to the chuck and then slip into the 3/8 R-8 collet that gets the most use on my machine. That way I could switch from edge finder to 3/8 end mill to drill chuck without removing the 3/8 collet.

I have searched Enco and Grizzly for such a device (ie, JT1, J2, or J33 that transitions to a straight 3/8" shank) with no success. Does such an adaptor exist for purchase? I do not own a lathe (yet) so can't make my own...

 

[Blogwitch]

Bolster,

They definitely exist in the UK, but as I don't know where you come from, I can't say for your place in the world.

http://rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Drill_Chucks_with_Straight_Shank.html


Bogs

 

[Metal Butcher]

Are you looking for a drill chuck arbor with a strait shank?

http://www.cdcotools.com/


Edit; The sites a little slow. type 'Drill chuck" into the search box,click on the 'GO' box , and scroll down to the strait shank drill chuck arbors. Their are quite a few choices.

$4 each, hey! even I can afford that! :big:

-MB

 

[Bolster]

Are you looking for a drill chuck arbor with a strait shank?

http://www.cdcotools.com/

Yes, indeed, there they are! But in half inch. I was hoping to find 3/8 shank for a 3/8 chuck... but perhaps that's not a good idea...perhaps not enough surface area to grip for a drill chuck, I wonder?

Well if I can't find a 3/8, this is my source...thank you! :bow:

PS: I've set location in my personal profile but for some reason it's not showing up when I post. I'm in California.

 

[narrowgauger]

Why not go to CTC Tools who can supply what you need in this instance.

good quality v price and excellent service.

www.ctctools.biz

have fun
Bernard

 

[kvom]

Or buy the 1/2" shank and turn it down to 3/8.

 

[Ned Ludd]

Hi Bolster,
What a good idea, chest swelling with pride, I did it years ago.
I have a keyless 10mm Rohm chuck that I bought from Tracy tools for £8 complete with screw ended Morse taper shank. I turned down the Morse taper to 1/2", I fear it was only a cheap import shank, and all was well, sort of. It was in all honesty a pain to use, till I realised that a 1/2" R8 collet only holds on about an inch, so I chopped the end off the shank leaving about 1.5". Now all is well, so much easier to use, and I can recommend doing it. Your 3/8" one should work just as well, as you can only go up to 3/8"drills, but 1/2" would be better.
Ned

 

[Bolster]

Sounds good. I may need to (have a friend) turn down a 1/2" then. I've not been able to find a 3/8 shank for anything larger than a 1/4" chuck.

I already have a big 5/8 chuck mounted on an R-8 collet, so I do have the large bits covered...just want something small and handy, as I think 80% of my drilling is done with bits 1/4" and smaller.

I CAN find a 3/8 straight shank/arbor for a Rohm 1/4" chuck, but the shank/arbor costs more than the chuck!!

 

[DICKEYBIRD]

Call me crazy but I quit using regular chucks and switched over to ER-16 & ER-32 collet chucks in my mill and my lathe tailstock for most all drill sizes. The grip and runout is superior. (IMO)

I bought this type of chuck http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-25/ER16-MT2-MK2-COLLET/Detail (and an MT2/ER-32) to go in the lathe, an R-8/ER-32 chuck and a 3/4" straight shank ER-16 chuck to go in the mill. CTC's chucks and collets are very good quality and inexpensive, direct from Hong Kong. The shipping's seems high at 1st glance but is fair. The overall price delivered is still very low for what you get. I don't see a 3/8 shank chuck listed but they do have a 10 mm.

 

[Ned Ludd]

Hi Bolster,
If you can buy a Morse No.1 arbour, for you drill chuck, you can turn it down to 3/8". The import ones turn quite nicely with a sharp carbide tip. Even best quality genuine Jacobs arbours can be turned, but it a touch difficult till you get through the remarkably thick case hardening. If you are going to "mullah" a genuine Jacobs best to start with a No2 to be sure to get under the case, or you might have to grind it to size, and that is another subject altogether.
If you think that the lack of a case will affect things, don't worry, what is left is no worse that the hardness of a twist drill and at least it will be held in a collet not a drill chuck.
Ned