Water Cooled Webster

[gus]

Hi Gus
Thanks for the complement.
I’ve been watching your Rotary Table build it’s looking good. Are you sure you want that deep sea rod holder? I’ve seen Shark Week on the Discovery Channel and to this prairie boy it doesn’t look like a good idea.
If you want to see the smoke and spin show I have a couple links to Youtube vids up on page 20, posts 191 and 200.

Hi Bob,

Last March 2014,used a 5 lb live Trevelly as bait, 100 pounder took the bait and we brought up the surface only to see it broke the leader line. In Burmese waters,it is catch and release. Rebaited twice and hit again by something that took off and never come back. Shimano Deep Sea rod/reel and my DIY rod holder stood to the severe test.

I like the putt putting roar of your engine and a very steady beat. Some time later will run the Webster now on my computer desk. Will be another two weeks before the Nemett-Lynx can do its very first roar.
Take care.

 

[bmac2]

Cogsy
Try it hooked up to a battery charger *club*

 

[bmac2]

Between work, family, and the yard I haven’t had much hobby time but I did manage to get the exhaust done. I decided to go with the stock salami cut pipe.
I have a stash of 3/8 rods salvaged from printer head guides, this stuff machines beautifully and polishes like chrome.

 

[bmac2]

Laid out the angle and milled it off.

 

[bmac2]

This was one of those slam dunk parts except for cutting the angle. It’s basically a thin tube so I had to hold it gently in the vise to and take light cut as it had the feel of wanting to grab.

 

[Mechanicboy]

That Tarno Carburetor is off a Cox .049 and it funny how for an engine as small as a .049 the book says to open the needle valve 2 1/2 to 3 turns, I’d almost given up when I decided to turn it in all the way and back it out ¼ turn at a time starting at 1 that’s when it gave up its first fart. As things turned out it likes to start at about ½ turn and then back it off the tiniest bit to running. It only gives me about 1/8 turn from too rich or too lean. The throttle valve, to use a quote “forget about it”. Although closed all the way it does make for a decent choke.

The fuel in Cox engine and other glowplug engines is running on methanol while your engine is running on gasoline with difference fuel amount. It is methanol who is a poor energy (low calories in methanol, about 5000 calories against gasoline who has about 10 000 calories) and need more fuel to run the engine.

 

[bmac2]

Didn’t get anything built today so I thought I’d pass along my adventures in trying to find a coil. In my area a new coil runs $50 - $60 and I just wasn’t willing to drop the cash on an engine I wasn’t sure would ever run so I went off looking for a used one. Now to be honest I don’t think I’ve been to a wreckers in 20 years and I guess the business has changed. I went to four auto wreckers and got the same response at each one. When I asked the guy at the counter for a coil he’d ask me “what’s it for”? I would try to explain that I didn’t care just any 12v coil. I was then told that they couldn’t help me without a “part number”. I don’t know if this is how they operate now or the quality of staff they can get, but I don’t know how they stay in business.
At the risk of sounding “Old Guy” I use to walk in with a part wrapped in a shop rag and say “got one of these?” response “Let me look. . . (wait). . . No but these will work”
One of the reasons I think I get to spend so much time in the shop is that I will volunteer to drive when my wife sees a quilting show in a nearby small town she wants to see. My only caveat is that:
A – I don’t have to go in.
B - She has to buy me lunch.
On one of these little trips on a whim I asked the guy at the gas station if he had any coils. After explaining what it was for and showing him the pictures I had on my I-pod he went into the back, gave me 2 and wished me luck on my engine. So want a used coil cheap, get out of town.

Another source I discovered the other day was those little Chinese dirt bike/scooter/quads they sell everywhere. Again on a whim I asked the sales kid if they had parts and he said no but gave me the name of an outfit nearby that did. Went over and asked the counter guy about a small 12v coil. After establishing I wanted a coil for a 4 stroke, for $20.00 this is what he pulled out. The coil is 1 3/8” long, about 1 ¼” in diameter, and works great on my Webster.

 

[gus]

Hi Bob,
I have same problem,old fashion car engine ignition coils are hard to find. Bought a grimy one for S$20(US$160)
which was humongous and took up too much workbench space. Passed by a motor-cycle repair shop and bought
one coil 1/8 size. Same price. Have yet to try out. Might try DIY Igniton Coil with my coil winder which has a counter. We have shops selling gas engine powered bicycles. Hopefully could buy something same as yours.
Will try the grass cutting engines too.

 

[Hat56]

Hi Bob,
I have same problem,old fashion car engine ignition coils are hard to find. Bought a grimy one for S$20(US$160)
which was humongous and took up too much workbench space. Passed by a motor-cycle repair shop and bought
one coil 1/8 size. Same price. Have yet to try out. Might try DIY Igniton Coil with my coil winder which has a counter. We have shops selling gas engine powered bicycles. Hopefully could buy something same as yours.
Will try the grass cutting engines too.

Hi All
I had the same trouble finding suitable ignition and coils but fond these guys om the net and they posted out to Australia no problems.

J E Howell model engine plans

Email: [email protected]
Phone: 937.997.2000​

Hollansburg, OH

or try
RCEXL
RCEXL Ignition

Happy motoring Hat

 

[bmac2]

I’ve decided to go with Brains suggestion and try a Chuck Fellows carburetor on my Webster. If you haven’t seen the video of the carb running on his you can check it out here.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?p=245053&highlight=Chuck+Fellows#post245053
The plan the main body of the carburetor calls for 1/2 x 3/8 and naturally I don’t have any so I milled down a piece of 3/8 x ?? cut off I had in the scrap drawer. Set it up in the 4 jaw off centre per the drawings and drilled and machined it to size.

 

[bmac2]

Laid out reference lines for the jet and throttle then step drilled the holes and tapped the throttle for the #8 screw.

 

[bmac2]

The jet is made from a piece of ¼ brass just machined, drilled and threaded per the drawings.

 

[bmac2]

To mill the flats on the bottom of the Jet I setup it up so the first one was at 90 deg. to the #60 hole in the jet tube, then rotated in the vise using a parallel to keep things aligned.

 

[bmac2]

I have 1/8 ID fuel line so I took that end of the jet down to .135” and put a small lip on the end.

 

[bmac2]

Bad angle in the picture but the hole in the jet looks like its spot on for the centre line of the carb. I’m going to put the jet upside down to the way it’s shown in the drawing. This way the throttle will be on the outside away from the spark plug.

 

[bmac2]

I did up the needle valve just per the drawings. It’s pretty straight forward just drill and tap. Then just raided my wife’s sewing box (Never thought quilting would cross over into engine building) for the appropriate needle. That’s it, only 3 parts to make and though the jets a bit fiddly none of them terribly hard to make. Tomorrow I’ll take down the end to fit the manifold, finish up the throttle and see if I can try it out on the engine.

 

[bmac2]

Before I got started on the carb I’d striped the engine down and gave it a good gleaning, first with just soap and water then with solvent. Used Bondo to smooth out all the brazing on the base, sanded it out and it was ready for primer and paint.

 

[bmac2]

The paint has had a couple of days to dry now so I got the engine back tougher. To set the crank at 15 degrees I held my protractor to a couple of 123 blocks with a small magnet so the arm rested right beside the crank web.

 

[bmac2]

Thinking that this is a bit of a pain and fiddly to set up I took out the spark plug and used a dial indicator to measure the pistons distance from TDC while the crank is sitting at the correct angles and wrote it on the bottom of the base. I have a 2” indicator I used to time the exhaust but I’m sure a calliper would work just as well.

 

[bmac2]

Well I’m a happy camper. The color turned out to be just what I wanted. Looks great (to me) with a undertone of rust!