Water Cooled Webster

[bmac2]

I think I’ve got about 2 – 2 ½ hours on the engine now (can’t stop playing with it) and I can’t get over how well it starts. Give it 3 slow turns holding it back until I feel it kick then give it a good flip and away it goes. The Chuck Fellows carburetor is a great, simple design that’s easy to make. The only problem I’m having with it is the spring I have on the throttle screw is too week and the screw rotates out while running. I’ll have to have another look in that Bag “O” springs I found the valve springs in for something stronger. The one thing I’ve learned about adjusting either of the carbs is that the engine seems to take a second or three to respond so it’s tweak, then wait for engine to catch up. They should have to change the definition of the phrase “Very forgiving design” so that when anyone looks it up all they get is a link to the Webster plans.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbLVZFoRUk0[/ame]

 

[gus]

Hi Bob,

Very good paint work and superb finishing.th_wav

Cam cutting begins tomorrow for the Nemett-Lynx Engine. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[johnmcc69]

Great finish, great runner, GREAT work Bob!

John

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Looks good and runs good too!!! Do you find that the Chuck Fellows carb gives you satisfactory throttle "response" so you can slow it down and speed it up the way you want? The carb worked super good on my Webster.---Brian

 

[bmac2]

Hi John and thanks. I’m very happy with the paint in the right light it just looks like faded rust. Just the sort of color you’d expect on an old utility engine.

 

[bmac2]

Hi Bob,

Very good paint work and superb finishing.th_wav

Cam cutting begins tomorrow for the Nemett-Lynx Engine. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Hi Gus. This was my first IC with a single lobe to cut and the thought of setting up for a multi lobe cam gives me chills. I’ll be keeping a good thought for ya cutting that cam.

 

[bmac2]

Looks good and runs good too!!! Do you find that the Chuck Fellows carb gives you satisfactory throttle "response" so you can slow it down and speed it up the way you want? The carb worked super good on my Webster.---Brian

Hi Brian and thanks again for drawings. The Chuck Fellows carb is so straight forward and simple a design that after I had the 3 parts finished I was ready to look over the plans the see what Id’ forgotten. Rof}
The throttle response is smooth as silk now that I have a stiffer spring so it stays put. It will idle right down and rev up to where I’m afraid it going to something nasty to itself. I think the timing might be a bit off, it starts missing at a slow idle. As a kid I only remember this style of engine running irrigation pumps and things like that so I’ll probably set it for a nice medium speed and watch it spin.*beer*
Thanks again I think this carb is a perfect match for the Webster.

 

[Swifty]

Starts and runs great, a very nice engine to be proud of.

Paul.

 

[bmac2]

I still haven’t come to a final decision on a permanent base for the engine so I thought I’d have some fun with the fuel tank. I wanted something different so I started by making a 1 ½” to 1 ¼” cone out of some sheet aluminum to form the base.

 

[bmac2]

For the fuel cell I’m going to use a 2 ¼” piece of 1 ½” brass sink drain I found in my “Plumbing Stuff” box. From my notes this should hold enough for about 5 to 10 minutes of run time. To cut it to length I set it up in the lathe with a wood plug in the chuck end and then carefully cut through with a parting tool leaving a just a few thou.

 

[bmac2]

To separate the two pieces just push in on the thin bit and peal it away like opening a sardine can. Then just cleaned up the ends so they’ll be ready for solder.

 

[bmac2]

The fuel cell has to match the cone shape of the base so I over to the mill to slit it lengthwise. It always surprises me the stresses in metal, this opened up about ½” when I cut it.

 

[bmac2]

The brass was under so much stress to hold the cone shape so I needed to make up some small rivets to hold it tougher. That done I mounted it on a quick and dirty wooden plug and trued up the ends in the lathe. I know the rivet line is ugly but no one will ever see it.

 

[bmac2]

Made up the top and bottom of the cell and got the three parts cleaned up and fitted tougher. I want to do the top, bottom, and side seam in one go so I find it easiest to just put a fire brick on a lazy susan. To make sure I don’t have the bottoms solder running out while I solder up the sides and top I’m going to use eutectic solder and a micro butane torch.

 

[bmac2]

Did up the rest of the bits, gave everything a good cleaning and a couple of coats of primer and now I just have to let things dry for a day or so before I can get the final paint colors on.

 

[bmac2]

I had to make a bigger button, my wife pointed out that the first one looked too small. 2 coats of automotive lacquer, some left over lamp hardware, and I can start screwing the pieces together.

 

[bmac2]

Well I pretty happy considering it all started with a 99 cent pepper shaker my wife pointed out while we were grocery shopping. I still have to give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer over the decals.

 

[Shawn]

Uhh...Bob, that is freakin awesome!!!

Shawn

 

[Swifty]

What a great way to make a fuel tank, absolutely amazing.

Paul.

 

[cfellows]

I'm glad the carburetor worked well for you. One thing I've discovered helps on the low end idle is cutting or grinding a small chamfer or bevel around the end of the throttle screw. This provides an air bleed at low throttle settings.

Chuck