This winter's project. A transmission for the 302 engine
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George, it is simply beautiful! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: You must have the patience of Job to be able to stand there hour after hour and keep track of where you have been and where you need to go.
I have been milling out Loco wheels and have found out you can move the wrong direction sooo easily it isn't even funny. I will be profiling Loco steam cyls out of cast iron so any tips you can send my way are sorely needed and greatly appreciated.
Looking forward to the rest of the build.
Ron
p.s. I've already invested in the ball nose end mills and riffer files.
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Hi Ron,
The best tips I can give when profiling is:
1. Always try to climb cut into your corners. This will prevent the cutter from digging in.
2. Always leave .005-.006 stock for a final cut.
3. Always pay attention to where you're at. If you get done with a pass and you forget whether you moved X or Y, STOP, and recheck before proceeding. Don't assume!
4. Be patient. You can make nice looking parts that work or you can make parts that look like they were cast it's just that there is so much more time involved.
George
The best tips I can give when profiling is:
1. Always try to climb cut into your corners. This will prevent the cutter from digging in.
2. Always leave .005-.006 stock for a final cut.
3. Always pay attention to where you're at. If you get done with a pass and you forget whether you moved X or Y, STOP, and recheck before proceeding. Don't assume!
4. Be patient. You can make nice looking parts that work or you can make parts that look like they were cast it's just that there is so much more time involved.
George
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It would be so interesting, and educative, as well as absolutely inspiring, to see you perform these tasks, through a camcorder, instead of still pictures,
even if it took hours to watch, I think it would still be very inspiring to see how much time you put into these parts, and the amount of patience needed,
that could be encouraging to us, when we find ourselves spending hours to make precision parts.
As well as the techniques you use to produce such masterpieces.
As always, Beautiful workmanship on your project.
even if it took hours to watch, I think it would still be very inspiring to see how much time you put into these parts, and the amount of patience needed,
that could be encouraging to us, when we find ourselves spending hours to make precision parts.
As well as the techniques you use to produce such masterpieces.
As always, Beautiful workmanship on your project.
ChooChooMike
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th_confused0052 th_confused0052 th_confused0052 You keep breaking th_rulze and do OUTSTANDING WORK :bow: :bow: :bow:
We are NOT WORTHY to sweep your swarf
Mike
We are NOT WORTHY to sweep your swarf
Mike
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Today's update. Sorry for the dark first picture. This was the case set up in the vise with the light on the other side of it. I had layed out some of the shape details on the bottom side and was starting to make some cuts.
The next 2 pictures show the different step cuts to form the angled top surface intersecting with the radius on the boss. Lots of steps here, X, Y and Z.
The last picture shows the oil drain plug side with some more stepping.
Tomorrow I have to figure how to make a conical radius by steps. I think I will cut 4 radial witnesses, one at each end and two in the middle some where. Just enough to that I can go in a grind and file by hand. I have two of them to do, one on the front corner and one on the opposite rear corner.
It looks like when I get done with the machining it's going to be awhile before I get back to it. A fellow from Texas sent me a 'Little Brother' for refurbishing. First things first.
George
The next 2 pictures show the different step cuts to form the angled top surface intersecting with the radius on the boss. Lots of steps here, X, Y and Z.
The last picture shows the oil drain plug side with some more stepping.
Tomorrow I have to figure how to make a conical radius by steps. I think I will cut 4 radial witnesses, one at each end and two in the middle some where. Just enough to that I can go in a grind and file by hand. I have two of them to do, one on the front corner and one on the opposite rear corner.
It looks like when I get done with the machining it's going to be awhile before I get back to it. A fellow from Texas sent me a 'Little Brother' for refurbishing. First things first.
George
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Oh my, that is looking amazing! What a detailed piece.
When you get to hand finishing, would you mind sharing a picture of your tools and bench.
Thanks George. Very inspiring.
How do you grind aluminum?? Every time I've tried it,it just loads up the wheel. Is there a special Ali grinding wheel? I"ve tried the bench grinder with ali oxide wheels and those little wheels you put in drills and they both load up something fierce.
Ron
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Hi Ron,
I use a product called Royal Jade. It comes in a stick form and when you spin your small mounted wheels you just run it against the material to put a thin layer on the surface. It acts similar to chalking up a file. It keeps the aluminum from loading up the tool. I also use it on my small burrs.
George
I use a product called Royal Jade. It comes in a stick form and when you spin your small mounted wheels you just run it against the material to put a thin layer on the surface. It acts similar to chalking up a file. It keeps the aluminum from loading up the tool. I also use it on my small burrs.
George
Thanks George. I have been googling it to find a supplier and so no luck. Will keep trying. Looks like you have had yours a while by the looks of the box. :big: :big: :big:
So it must not take a whole lot to do the job.
Ron
So it must not take a whole lot to do the job.
Ron
Hi George,
Was reading an article by Brian Perkins and was thinking of you. I am now getting the jist of your "carving" technique.....I will practice your "Kung Fu" oh master...perhaps some day...before I die.... I will be worthy :bow: :bow: :bow:
;D
Dave
Was reading an article by Brian Perkins and was thinking of you. I am now getting the jist of your "carving" technique.....I will practice your "Kung Fu" oh master...perhaps some day...before I die.... I will be worthy :bow: :bow: :bow:
;D
Dave
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Hi KustomKB,
Well I'm done with the machining and starting to finish. To answer your question the first two posts will be my tools. As I stated on my V-twin build I have some die sinker riffler files, not a lot (very expensive) but enough to get into most of the corners and pockets. Along with those I have a pretty good selection of what's referred to a jeweler's files, round, square, triangle, knife, etc. I also have quite a few 1/8 shank mounted stones of different shapes and sizes. I generally use the blue stones for most of my work. As you can see from the picture I have a nice selection of carbide burs. I use the double cut ones. I have a Magnaviewer with the LED light attachment. I have the strongest lens available. The focal range is only about 4 inches but boy does it blow things up. And last but not least I have a Dremel variable speed grinder although for this work it's usually on it's highest setting, (20,000 rpm.) The grinder is used along with a flex shaft and Dremel handpiece. The only thing I have found that is more sensitive for grinding and finishing is an air pencil grinder. The only problem is they take so much air. My 1-1/2 horse compressor hardly ever shuts off when using it a lot. Oh yeah I almost forgot, a wide variety of emery and crocus cloths.
So here's the pictures.
George
Well I'm done with the machining and starting to finish. To answer your question the first two posts will be my tools. As I stated on my V-twin build I have some die sinker riffler files, not a lot (very expensive) but enough to get into most of the corners and pockets. Along with those I have a pretty good selection of what's referred to a jeweler's files, round, square, triangle, knife, etc. I also have quite a few 1/8 shank mounted stones of different shapes and sizes. I generally use the blue stones for most of my work. As you can see from the picture I have a nice selection of carbide burs. I use the double cut ones. I have a Magnaviewer with the LED light attachment. I have the strongest lens available. The focal range is only about 4 inches but boy does it blow things up. And last but not least I have a Dremel variable speed grinder although for this work it's usually on it's highest setting, (20,000 rpm.) The grinder is used along with a flex shaft and Dremel handpiece. The only thing I have found that is more sensitive for grinding and finishing is an air pencil grinder. The only problem is they take so much air. My 1-1/2 horse compressor hardly ever shuts off when using it a lot. Oh yeah I almost forgot, a wide variety of emery and crocus cloths.
So here's the pictures.
George
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Thanks a lot George. That sure is quite the assortment. I have a only a couple of rifler files I have inherited over the years and not nearly as many mounted points. That's a nice collection of burrs too. My Dad just gave me a dremel clone that has the digital speed read-out. oooh. Fancy, I know. Just kidding. I have a decent compressor and the pneumatic pencil grinder and have found that I can last a lot longer when wearing my gel filled impact gloves. I can have all the tools in the world but without the skills and patience to use them they are useless. Thanks for sharing. I will be watching the progress with great interest.
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Now to show the progression of finishing an area. The first picture shows the area to be finished. Although the steps look very large in these pictures they're not. It's just that they are zoomed up so much. On the 45* walls the cusps are about .0008. The cusps going around the circular boss are a little bigger, maybe .005 at most. Naturally they can be made smaller but it just adds so much more milling time to an already lengthy process. They can be cut down with a bur and stones in no time.
The second picture is the areas covered with a magic marker so that it makes it easier to see what is being removed.
The third picture is with some of the high spots kissed off with both a small bur and stone. I use a 1/8 ball nosed bur for the open areas and a tree bur with a small ball tip for the pockets. When using a bur you want to let the bur do the work, don't press, just let the bur skip over the high spots. If you don't it will grab and make all kinds of nasty tracks across your part.
The last picture of this set shows quite a bit of the high spots removed. Once you get the biggest part of the material removed with bur go to your stones. They are much more forgiving when removing stock.
George
The second picture is the areas covered with a magic marker so that it makes it easier to see what is being removed.
The third picture is with some of the high spots kissed off with both a small bur and stone. I use a 1/8 ball nosed bur for the open areas and a tree bur with a small ball tip for the pockets. When using a bur you want to let the bur do the work, don't press, just let the bur skip over the high spots. If you don't it will grab and make all kinds of nasty tracks across your part.
The last picture of this set shows quite a bit of the high spots removed. Once you get the biggest part of the material removed with bur go to your stones. They are much more forgiving when removing stock.
George
Lakc
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Looking good, thanks for the walkthrough.
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