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I have just checked 4 online metal sites for 1/4" x 1/2" brass bar. What a shock! Prices ranged from $5.18/ft with $14.70 for shipping to $16.22/ft and $16.39 shipping! Anybody have a 6" piece they can sell me for a reasonable price and $5.35 USPS shipping?
As I said before, I have some 2" brass bar ends, 3" long, but the time and setup to cut 1/4" x 1/2" x3/16" pieces would be huge.

Chuck
 
Chuck,
Nice job on the soldering, it should be strong enough.
I have some brass for the bearings. P.M. your address.

Regards,
Maverick
 
Maverick,
Thanks for the offer, I've decided I'm just too lazy! I cut a slice off the fore mentioned brass bar end and proceeded to slice that up on the mill with a slitting saw. First slice yielded 6 pair of roughed out bearing halves, so I cut another slice. The bar ends were free curtesy of my brother, I just needed to get off my but and do it!
I have learned so much from this build, and extended my experience and confidence to no end! Thanks Team Build 8 Group for allowing me to participate!
I've even been looking into a vibrating polisher to make my bits pretty!

Chuck
 
10 bearing pairs, super glued together, ready for milling to match, drilling and boring bearing hole, and drilling the bolt holes.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/team build 8/DSCF1355.jpg

Can you see my mistake? I glued the wrong sides together. I glued them on the narrow edge. They're supposed to be 1/4" thick.

I have to separate them and re-glue in correct relationship. If I mill them to length now, I may not be able to lign them up exactly to re-glue.

No heat in the shop so I'm only getting about an hour during the day to work. Maybe 5-6 hours left...

Chuck

Chuck
 
Well, I soaked the bearing sets overnight in acetone and got them separated again. Proceded to measure them and ponder the correct orientation. After several minutes I got out the ol' superglue and had at it again.

You guessed it, glued them up the same way again, WRONG! Bearings are now soaking in acetone again, and I'm soaking my head!

Chuck
 
Acetone is just too slow, used heat to separate the bearing halves. Got them squared away and milled to size. Now drilling the bolt and crank holes. I do not have a reamer for the 1/4" crank hole. What do you guys suggest?
I can drill with a letter D drill, that will leave .004 to ream to 1/4". Will that be enough? Should I drill smaller?

Chuck
 
Sometimes a project takes more time head scratching than actual
machining.
For the .250 bore allow about .010 for reaming. This gives the
reamer some material to center up in. I can send you a spare .250 reamer
if you'd like. I have a handful from an auction.

Regards,
Maverick
 
Thanks Maverick, I'd appreciate that.
Bearings are comming on great!
Here's the first one ready for the crank hole!

Chuck

DSCF1358.jpg
 
Getting close to finishing my parts. Got 1 more hole to drill and ream, and the final bling to work out.
Who is going to receive the members parts and redistribute? Is there a way we can pay for postage and anciliaries like screws? I don't think we all want to by boxes of each type of fastener needed. Why not divide the cost of fasteners among the members and add that to the cost of the postage?
One more question. On the connecting rod I'm making, the clevis threads on the rod I asume that is for adjusting the length of the rod. How about a hex nut to lock the adjustment? I could get a piece of brass hex and make some nuts to add a bit of bling?

Chuck
 
Getting close to finishing my parts. Got 1 more hole to drill and ream, and the final bling to work out.
Who is going to receive the members parts and redistribute? Is there a way we can pay for postage and anciliaries like screws? I don't think we all want to by boxes of each type of fastener needed. Why not divide the cost of fasteners among the members and add that to the cost of the postage?
One more question. On the connecting rod I'm making, the clevis threads on the rod I asume that is for adjusting the length of the rod. How about a hex nut to lock the adjustment? I could get a piece of brass hex and make some nuts to add a bit of bling?


Chuck


Boy ... you sure are moving right along and the parts look great.
smiley.gif
smiley.gif


Way back in an earlier post I mentioned that each builder would supply their own hardware. That way they could pick the style to suit them. I plan on making my own hex as mentioned on page 16. If I do buy I would only buy one length and then trim as needed. No money exchanges hands. If obtaining the 2-56 hardware becomes a problem ... let us know, I'm sure someone would help out.

In January I will request e-mail and mailing addresses from each builder. Then I will provide each member with that information ... you then mail your part(s) to each member.

Won't need a hex nut ... assembly can't rotate. ;)


Pat H
 
I think it would make better economic sense for all of us to send our parts to one person, plus the return postage, that person repackages the parts in USPS " if it fits it ships" boxes and sends them out. I will volunteer to do that.
Has anyone made a list of fasteners needed? I honestly haven't paid attention to that detail.
I understand the 'doesn't move' on the connecting rod.

Chuck
 
Chuck ..

Opps .. I guess that didn't come across very well. I'm sorry ... I didn't mean for it to sound that way.:hDe:

As far as shipping ... thanks for volunteering, may take you up on that.
But here is my take on it ... and this is only my opinion.
First ... need to take you out of the equation. This is not directed at you or anyone else on this team.:cool:

Now ... I don't like mailing all my parts to one person ... too many things can happen. And things do happen ... accidents, illness, family and job obligations, and host of other things. Well intended promises can be broken, in other words ...things get in the way. Imagine... everyone sends their parts to me and something happens so that I don't (or can't) follow through. Everyone suffers. But if they sent their parts to the other 8 team members ... obligation has been met. When I receive parts from the other team members it becomes my responsibility to finish my engine. There are other reasons but enough. :p

Let's open this up for discussion and then we can decide which way is best for this team. TB 4 and 6 we sent to each other.


Pat H.
 
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I would agree that the parts be sent to each member from the one who made them. It seem much cleaner that way

DAve
 
Sending individually has worked well in the past.
That's my vote.
 
Guess I'll go with the majority then.

Another question. Are we as individuals applying bling, or is that up to the individual?

Chuck
 
I for one like a more mate finish on my engines. Not sure what others might like. sure cuts down on upkeep.

Dave
 

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