Tail stock advance

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Baron

I wouldn't even concider purchasing that item, it's way to expensive! I did check to see if it was gold plated! he he! So my money will go into a good Mill instead. I just wanted to show an alternative way to tackle the issue.

Fools and money are soon parted... ;)

Peace,
Rob
 
Why not just mount a dial indicator next to the saddle then as you advance the saddle either with the rack and pinion or the tail stock you can see how far you have moved also a saddle lock may be in order so it will not move while you are milling.





Gee for 580 quid You should be able to buy a small mill
Tin
 
Apologies but might I question the price! I wonder if this is a realist price because RDG have been known to leave entries on Ebay when they are out of stock. So this might be simply a daft price.

If it is a genuine, then I agree with earlier comments.

Frankly, this is where a vertical slide plus the vice/vise can be obtained on E-Bay or whatever for considerably less. All that most 'Chinese' lathes need is a means of fixing any old slide onto the saddle. I once described how to fit a 918/920 with a Myford slide and vice with nothing more than a block of steel- and a few cheap bits of studding and modified nuts.

As for the value( lots of comments here) but I went out one day for a 1/6th HP motor for a tool and cutter grinder with a £100 or $150? and came back with the motor attached to a Stent tool and cutter grinder which has a vertical slide- all calibrated and with a spindle and grinder attached-- and a whole heap of goodies. It was half an hour on a Sunday.

Another day, I bid for a Clarkson 1. No bits but a Clarkson 1 tool and cutter grinder that-cost a street of houses - once. I paid £100 and came back with it ans=d an electronic chuck as a bonus.

Another day, I went out with a Myford lathe bed for slideways grinding- and with £250 got it done plus the saddle re-Turcited. In the midst of things there was an extremely dirty, filthy Myford ML7 on a pallet. I ran a finger through the grime and grease, and found that it had been not only slideways ground recently but had a gear box and long saddle etc etc and the price was a mere £400- in coins of the realm. I was too old, too weary so and not strong enough to lift it into my little car. The gear box alone was worth more than that and for a few more coins it would have lasted someone a lifetime, I mentioned it on a forum-- and no one bit at the bait.

I think that we must get things into perspective.- or something.
 
It's a bit - very cold for an old fart to be in my shed- and very damp as well. So I am having a brain storm as my hand has locked up again, anyway. So let's think a bit, eh?

So some of us need- or could do with a vertical slide. I might well have a mill drill but vertical slides are still really useful. So where do we find one- and importantly, free gratis and not a lot?

Well, that thing that is officially called a top slide can be detached from its place on the saddle and rotated 90 degrees- if only a square block of metal was fasted to it- and to the saddle.

Knocks daft prices for something that may not be wanted really where it is. With a bit more lateral thinking, those QCTP things that everyone raves about( 'cept me) could be fitted to the saddle- with a spacer to replace the top slide.

Comments please- on a Five pound note!

Norman
 
It's a bit - very cold for an old fart to be in my shed- and very damp as well. So I am having a brain storm as my hand has locked up again, anyway. So let's think a bit, eh?

So some of us need- or could do with a vertical slide. I might well have a mill drill but vertical slides are still really useful. So where do we find one- and importantly, free gratis and not a lot?
If it is damp it isn't that cold! Around here it has been so called the snow snaps and cracks when you walk on it. It doesn't even stick to your feet.
Well, that thing that is officially called a top slide can be detached from its place on the saddle and rotated 90 degrees- if only a square block of metal was fasted to it- and to the saddle.

Knocks daft prices for something that may not be wanted really where it is. With a bit more lateral thinking, those QCTP things that everyone raves about( 'cept me) could be fitted to the saddle- with a spacer to replace the top slide.
This is what I've done on my 9x20 to use an AXA style tool post. It makes for a very stable tool post for on a machine with known wimpy compound. I actually posted pictures someplace on this forum. Of course this means the compound normally sits off the lathe, this could be an issue.
Comments please- on a Five pound note!

Norman
 
If it is damp it isn't that cold! Around here it has been so called the snow snaps and cracks when you walk on it. It doesn't even stick to your feet.
There's an interesting story about an American called Jeffrey Hamilton.
He had a father who was a ski jumper. It was 1992, and the place was Les Arcs 2000 and the venue was the Winter Olympics.
The Kilometre Lance was a 'demonstration' event. Jeffrey won but before that one of the Swiss team ran into a piste-basher.

My wife and I had skied around from our apartment at Arc 1800.

So this snow thing? Agreed!
 
I agree. I don't think it was listed correctly.

I've been having a look at 'what is to offer' now. There is an unmarked Myford vertical slide- which will tilt as well, on offer for about £65 or perhaps 100 dollars.

Now for those with a vertical slide- and a rotary table( You with me, Gus?),
you have a radius turning attachment. Now if you cost a radius turning attachment on a proprietary bit of kit( like my Clarkson one) you need a lot of smelling scents to recover from the shock.

Meantime, cheers

N
 
Frankly, you might get away with it but, in what I can see, I'd have driven your attachment on the saddle using the leadscrew. If you truncate your triangle of forces, your pressure exerted is not in line using the tailstock. Consequently, you are putting unnecessary strains on the underneath of the saddle- and marginally lifting it.

Again, if you follow my reasoning, you are doing exactly the same with the tailstock configuration.

Now having said all this, there is no reason why smaller things are not driven from the tailstock using a tailstock pad. Quite simply, the stresses and strains are far less.

My take, others may have different views. Mine are these very old fashioned triangles of forces from Euclid and Pythagoras- a couple of ancient old farts- like me.

Cheers

Norman

Norman,

Advice can go much further than anticipated! I just had one of those Eureka moments.
 
This thread is a bit old but I have to add my nickel's worth....

There is a series in Home Shop Machinist magazine (http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/home) on upgrading the mini lathe.

Article 1 (Sept/Oct 2012) shows a quick and easy leadscrew dial (see photo). Article 8 details a carriage travel stop. Article 9 (Jan/Feb 2014) shows how to use the compound rest as a vertical slide and article 10 shows a number of different milling set ups.

One important point about milling on the mini....the carriage hold down plates are badly designed and must be replaced or you will have problems with the carriage lifting (see article 10 in the series).

All the accessories in the series can be built using only the mini lathe and a drill press.

....and although some (like the leadscrew dial) may look like a simplistic approach, I guarantee that they all work. I am the author of the series.

Photo2_LeadscrewDial-small.jpg
 

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