Stuart Beam Help With Knock

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n2steam

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I recently acquired a Stuart Beam built in the 70's. It was built my a machinist who at the finish of build and a few fires never finished dressing it up with paint, etc. This was just what I was looking for. I can hardly wait for the final prep and dress.
I've run it on air, I can get it as low as around 7.5 lbs. of pressure before a stall. My concern is a slight knock at the top and bottom of each cycle. In reviewing videos on youtube it appears that with some engines this is normal, however I've also noticed videos with no evidence of a knock.
What might be your opinions? Is their anyone in northern CA that might be close that could offer a look and advise?
I thank you all very much.
Jim
 
I don't have a Stuart beam engine buy I do have a Reeves 'Mary' steam engine. When all the links are tight it runs nice and quiet. When the pivot for the beam gets a tiny bit loose it develops a knock. Most of the joints on the links are so small that even if they get loose they don't make a 'knock' sound. I would check the pivot pin for the beam or the large end of the connecting rod. I'm sure this is where your sound is coming from.
gbritnell
 
Thank you gbritnell, I'll try a run with a heavier weight oil to see if that quiets it down. I'm using 3 in one at the moment. I hope that's all it is.
 
Jim,
Knocks and catches would not be "normal" in a well made model steam engine. A well made engine should have no discernable clearance in any bearing and be smooth and without tight spots throughout its rotation. A newly finished engine might very well have tight spots and assuming all else is in alignment there are ways to work the tightness out. For starters, on your engine, I would check the lateral alignment of the drive train. Disconnect the connecting rod ends and let them dangle from the beam and see if anything is visibly out of whack. Then try it the other way round, to see if for instance the crankpin end is a bit askew. That will dictate what next step might have to be taken.

Knocks would indicate two things, poor (loose) fit of journals or bearings, or drive train misalignment, or both, as gbritnell has so rightly suggested. In a beam engine the piston, piston rod, crosshead, connecting rod ends, beam, beam pin, crank rod ends, and crankshaft journal should all be in very close alignment with each other, within a few thou'. Sometimes when things aren't in line an end of the connecting rods will "pop" laterally as it attempts to seek its proper postion relative to the rest of the mechanism. One cause of this is misalignment of the connecting rod ends because they were drilled and reamed slightly askew resulting in the other end not lining up. Sometimes this movement is so subtle it can't be easily seen. Wallowing out the bearings to allow a misalignment is often the quick (but poor) fix.

If you Google "model beam engine" (or variations on that theme) you should find lots of examples of spiffed up beam engines (and some not so spiffed up), and many will be Stuarts. I tend to prefer a simple treatment myself, with a single-color paint scheme. Attached is a photo of a Stuart Beam I built a few years ago but which is no longer in my possession. The paint is 2-part hobby epoxy. The castings were first filled with casting filler and then primed, each rubbed down between coats, followed by two coats of color. The color is actually more a maroon than the red it appears to be. All of the machined surfaces are as-turned in the lathe, or as-finished with flat files; none of the surfaces were ground or polished. The Stuart Beam is not as easy a build as some (including Stuarts) would have you believe, it's a bit more than a beginner's engine, but it's a very good first beam engine once you have something simpler under your belt.

STBEAM3.jpg
 
You shouldn't need heavier oil, and it's not really a fix, anyway.

I'll second gbritnell. I'm guessing it is one or more loose bearings, probably the big end bearing on the crankshaft, or the beam bearings.

If so, you'll need to put bushings in the holes or, possibly easier on the beam, make a larger shaft to go through the holes. About 1/2 thou clearance so it's just a nice smooth sliding fit with absolutely no shake would be ideal.
 
Just a thought but things could be a little long or short and the piston is bottoming/topping out in the cylinder.

Best Regards
Bob
 
You guys are giving me all great areas to check out. I deeply appreciate. I wish some of you were closer!
Not being a machinist I lack the feel and eye of what to look for. I'll check out the areas you all mention and see what I can come up with and post accordingly.
Thanks again for letting me into your world of expertice.
 
As I got home this evening I checked out a few things on my beam. Results as follows.
1. The crank has a bit of play on the shaft, just a bit.
2. The connecting rod as it attaches to the crank pin has a lot of horizontal play.
3. The beam as it connects to the beam crank shaft has a fair amount of horizontal play.
4. All of the parallel motion assembly links have a bit of horizontal slop, as a result the whole assembly is a bit wobbly.
That's my report for now, any ideas?
Thank you all.
 
The horizontal play in most cases shouldn't produce any knocking but any looseness vertically will. About the only way to correct this is to bush or repin the offending link. The problem with these little engines is there is no good way to keep them lubricated. You put a few drops of oil on them before you start running them and by the time they've turned over a couple of hundred times the oil is almost gone. Some fellows have put in small ball bearings at the main load points but a good bearing bronze plain bearing will hold up quite well.
gbritnell
 
Here are the images of my Stuart Beam with adjustable split bearings. Files were too big to go with the earlier post.
Tim



P1080964.JPG


P1080965.JPG


P1080966.JPG
 
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