Setting up Shop Questions - from an NZ learner

[goldstar31]

If you can get down to 60RPM, I would b e happy with that.
Again, if you have hss tools which have inevitably blunted, I'd invest in a diamond hone to 'touch up'
Perhaps a tip in doing this is to use a waterproof felt marker and remove the rounded/worn cutting edge.

I'm blessed with a pair of surgeon's binoculars - from my dentist daughter, a watchmaker's loup and a microscope.

Of course, good tool ma\king lathes came with a microscope:hDe:
Somewhere on the 'net, there is Geometer's Microscope on the Lathe. Geometer was probably none other than 'Ned' Westbury

Worth a read- twice

Cheers

N

 

[joco-nz]

Thanks Norman. I found what that series of articles along with a treasure trove of other engineer articles at: http://neme-s.org
I'm not sure where the link is on the site but I stumbled on to a heap of stuff here: http://neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/

The diamond hone is a good point, while I have a reasonable quality oil stone I dont have a diamond hone. Are the brands all much of a muches in this area or should I be searching for a sepcific set of brand names?

On the magnification front I have been wondering if some form of head mounted magnification might not be a good idea to get. What level of magnificaiton would be good to get? Any views?

Cheers,
James.

 

[goldstar31]

Glad to help.
My 'Keeler's' are 2.5 X but maybe could be larger magnification. I'm on plastic as my late wife bought the cataract ops as a Christmas box and a Birthday present. Quite a gal- best silver solderer and wire bender-- and had the cap and gowns to prove it! Played a mean saxophone-- but I digress.
Probably you should find your preferred optical requirements. I'm on bifocals too!

Being of a lazy disposition, my diamond wheels range from about 180g to 400g but I've a 600g flat as well. When I get fussy, I head down the old traditional Arkansas stone or diamond pastes finishes. You'd be better to err on the coarser grits as a start.

Have a look at Conrad Hoffman's site. It's amazingly detailed yet simple to emulate. Read him up. He effectively simplifies the practical way of doing things. It starts you off with the fascination of seeing a cobweb of cast iron or a dusting of the finest steel wool There is more than his Messy Basement site- but read it first

Does this help you along?

 

[joco-nz]

Slow progress but progress.
Welding cart starting to look like one.



Putting the wheels on and finding that the easiest way to affix will be to weld them. I just need to try and grind off as much of the zinc coating as I can. Nasty stuff.

The shelves will be either 3mm tread aluminum OR 2mm sheet steel. The aluminum would look great but I can get the steel delivered for about half the price. So ... it might well win.

Then it's painting time! Shall I do black or maybe something more aligned with my red BOC welder

Started modeling the lathe table in CAD, my hand drawing skills having completely failed me. Will post images up once soonish for those interested. Dimensions won't be final as until I get the actual lathe on site and can do some measurements it's all a little up in the air. General plan is to follow a torsion bar design approach with the chip tray slide under the torsion bar to allow for easy cleaning. Given I'm unlikely to source a bar big enough I'm going to stick a couple of RHS lengths together. This should make for a pretty solid platform that won't, in its self, twist which means the lathe shouldn't be subject to twisting. At least that's the theory of this type of design as I understand it. BUT, it's going to be sodding heavy!

 

[joco-nz]

For those interested in what a torsion beam lathe stand is about:
http://users.picknowl.com.au/~gloaming_agnet/cq9325rev4.html

 

[Blogwitch]

These are Rhomboid and only have 2 cutting points.

Unfortunately, or fortunately this is incorrect. You should use the sharper two angles for most of your cutting and finishing work, then when both are dull, you can use the unused wider angled tips for hogging large lumps of materials by just purchasing the two correct left and right hand holders.
I know a chap in South Africa that, until I told him about this with these tips, had been throwing them away after the two shallower angles had become dull. He had been wasting half his money for many years.

This shows the different types of mounting for these tips, where all four cutting tips are used, and is the type I have been using for many years.

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_777104_.html

John

 

[rodw]

These are Rhomboid and only have 2 cutting points.

Unfortunately, or fortunately this is incorrect. You should use the sharper two angles for most of your cutting and finishing work, then when both are dull, you can use the unused wider angled tips for hogging large lumps of materials by just purchasing the two correct left and right hand holders.
I know a chap in South Africa that, until I told him about this with these tips, had been throwing them away after the two shallower angles had become dull. He had been wasting half his money for many years.

This shows the different types of mounting for these tips, where all four cutting tips are used, and is the type I have been using for many years.

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_777104_.html

John

I am a big fan of the CCMT tips as shown on your link. I've only ever used the narrower tips but the finish they give for both turning and facing with the one tool is fantastic particularly with some coolant running. I have not used the triangular ones I started with since I bought these and there is such a range of tools that they fit. Even my boring bars for my mill use these. They are also very easy to make your own tooling for. You just need to mill a straight edge to locate the insert and drill and tap one hole to hold the insert.

 

[Blogwitch]

Rod,

Even the wider angled tips can be used for facing etc, and can give very good results but can't be used for turning up to a shoulder, but I use those wider ones mainly for removing things like heavy scale off cast iron etc, where the sharper point would usually be snapped off within minutes the wider angle tips seem to last forever.

Like most of these tips, even other shapes, they can usually be given a new lease of life by rubbing the top face over a diamond lap, they can then be used on materials that require no top rake such as brass and cast iron.

I have about 50 tips in all, all in different states of use, some as old as 10 years or even older, and not one is disposed of until nothing else can be got out of it, they really are a very good investment.
I don't know how the newer ground tips (ccgt) stand up to this sort of playing about with, only time will tell, when mine get worn a little.

John

 

[joco-nz]

The Lathe has arrived! So hard to keep focused on work. I'll start a thread specifically on my Lathe apprenticeship so that conversation can be focused on just Lathe work, questions and issues.

Gah - now NEED to make that stand.

Cheers,
James.

 

[joco-nz]

Ok, I've been looking at the new tool, taking some pics and thinking, crap what have I gotten my self in for.

But also really excited to get into this new experience. :thumbup:

Crap thats a big box.


Lid off ... Oooo NICE!




Hmm 1.2m long. not too bad.


Nice big solid 200mm 4 jaw and 200mm plate.




All the extra little bits. The paper wrapped parts are the alternative jaws for the 3-jaw chuck.


Once I have the bench pretty close to done I'll give things a good clean. Until then I guess better to leave the protective grease on.

Cheers,
J.

 

[bazmak]

Looks nice.The lathe will spend a lifetime without the grease.Taking it off a couple of weeks early will not do any harm.Spend some time getting the majority off and taking off a few parts to get the feel of things.Its exciting

 

[joco-nz]

Looks nice.The lathe will spend a lifetime without the grease.Taking it off a couple of weeks early will not do any harm.Spend some time getting the majority off and taking off a few parts to get the feel of things.Its exciting

WD40 okay for degreasing? I seem to remember reading somewhere that was what many use for cleaning up mini lathes.

Once it's degreased I assume I need to put a light coat of some oil? Something other than the WD40 residue I presume. Recommendations?

Cheers,
J.

 

[bazmak]

If its stored in a dry shed then WD40 or turps then wipe with an oily rag
It depends on what its coated with.The thick red grease takes some cleaning off
Take the time to remove and look under any covers.Headstock springs to mind
Sometimes these hidden places have taces of casting sand etc
How long before liftoff?

 

[joco-nz]

Its stored in the garage which is dry but in the winter will get pretty cold. I might need to come up with some way to prevent condensation.

Anyway, when it comes to "oily rag" is just some light machine or 3in1 oil ok?

Lift off is dependent on making the stand. I'm designing it at the moment and trying to make sure I don't back myself into a corner on the configuration of the table. By this I mean draws and the like. I have been trying to find the draws I have seen RodW use and some other aussie builds but to no avail. Everything seems to be a crappy 300m deep where as something closer to 500 is what I really want. Especially as each draw unit starts at around 200NZD. So ... I'm probably going to have to break out the woodworking skills and make some wooden draws. Line them with brown paper and they should be good.

Then I will need to get the steel ordered and collect it. Best case I get delivery of material mid to late next week (I have to take time off work to collect since none of the suppliers are open in the weekend). Probably 2-3 weeks away before I will complete the table and mount the lathe.

J.

 

[Blogwitch]

Iso 68 for all slideways and Iso 32 (general hydraulic fluid) for use in your gearboxes and general lube around the machine.

These are lubes recommended by all Chinese machine suppliers (most independents won't be able to tell you as it seems beyond their brain power to look it up correctly).

Hope this helps

John

 

[joco-nz]

So according to http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/iso-grade-oil-d_1207.html it looks like

ISO 68 == SAE 20W

ISO 32 == SAE 10W

That should make it a bit easier to find the right stuff. I can get good sense asking for SAE designations. Asking for ISO grades could get entertaining.

A quick read of the AL320G manual shows:
[1] all oiling is with SAE 20 (ISO 46)
[2] grease is Grease 3#Ca. Which seems to look like http://www.rs200motoroil.com/product/grease-ca-3-2/

 

[grapegro]

Hello J ,
I have found w5-40 fully synthetic oil to be a good lubricant for all parts of the lathe, I have a 9-20 chinese lathe. The best part is that it does stop rusting with a liberal coat. Best of wishes on your venture.
Norm

 

[XD351]

Grizzly website usually has better manuals for Chinese machines just look for the machine that looks like yours as their model designations are different.
I asked Hare and Forbes how to lift my Al 320 g and they said one sling around the spindle and one through the centre web in the bed at the tailstock end , use the carriage to balance .
They are top heavy because of the geared head and if you just sling under the bed they can roll that is what the sling going to the spindle in your diagram is for - to stop it rolling over .
I use plain old chain bar oil on everything except the gearbox , i use hydraulic oil for this .

 

[bazmak]

I cut up an old heavy curtain to make a simple cover for the lathe and mill
Keeps your new baby warm and dry in winter and when not in use

 

[rodw]

Takes me back seeing one all brand new again! Machinery house sell hydraulic oil for the lathe and i use it for everything. I cleaned mine up with 4 litres of kerosene.

Regarding the drawer units, my left hand drawers are 2 of these
https://www.tradetools.com/product-...dustrial-3-drawer-full-depth-stacker-tool-box

The right hand drawers are a cheap toolbox from the same place with the lid removed. This one I think
https://www.tradetools.com/product-...abinets/renegade-industrial-3-drawer-tool-box

So look for a place that sells mechanics toolchests as the main drawers are top boxes that sit on top of rolling tool chests.