Selecting End Mills for a Newbee

[Ageless]

Hello;
I have just started milling and have acquired several end mills of different flute configuration and size. In addition I now have aquired
a 1 1/4" indexable end mill. I did this because I had read that one should use the largest cutter one has that will do the job.
At present I have mostly HSS cutters but have a few solid carbide one mostly in the smaller size range.
What I want to know is what size and flute configuration should I now purchase to complete a descent set of cutters to start with.

This is what I have:
Four Flute End Mills (HSS):
1- 7/8” End Mill
4- ½” Mills
3- 3/8” Mills
4- ¼” Mills
1- ½” 4-Flute Ball nose End Mill

Two Flute End Mills (HSS):
1- 1" End Mill
1- 3/4" End Mill
1- 5/8" End Mill
2- ½” End Mills
1- 3/8” End Mill
1- 7/32” End Mill
2- 3/16” End Mills
1- 5/32” End Mill

Carbide:
1- 1/2” 2-Flute Carbide
1- 3/8” 2-Flute Carbide
1- 3/8” 2-Flute Carbide Ball Nose

Please give me your thought so I can move forward!

 

[ksouers]

Ageless,
It looks like you already have a very decent set of end mills, certainly more than I have.

I really wouldn't add any more until you actually need them. But, if I were to add anything it would be a couple more ball nose on either side of the 1/2 inch you already have. And maybe a small round-over or two and maybe a chamfer tool. I love spending other people's money ;D

Do you have a fly cutter? That can come in handy for cleaning up large surfaces.

 

[hammers-n-nails]

it really depends on what kinds of projects your going to be working on. for building these little engines if it where me and i had a mill/drill i would keep about 4-5 each 1/16"-1/4" by 1/16ths and 2-3 each 5/16"-3/4". as far as using the biggest endmill you can that may be true in a production situation but with a small mill your probably not gong to have enough power to overload even a 1/2" endmill, i dont know this to be fact because ive never used one but thats the impression i get. i like 4 flute endmills for steel, they cut alot smoother, that is less hammering-not the finish. i would definatly get at least one hog mill like this http://www1.mscdirect.com/Roughing-&-Finishing/Single-End-Mills/Cutting-Tools/s0000000713.HTML in whatever size suits your needs and machine, they will take metal off alot faster using less horsepower. i never really cared for carbide endmills becuase they chip so easy and are expensive, you may get into problems with your machine being able to turn them at the max speed anyway, therefore defeating the purpose of using carbide. unless your useing unusual material i tihnk youll get along just fine with fair quality hss. for a 3/8 carbide end mill id say about 2880 rpm 4300 for 1/4.

thats my story..............

 

[starbolin]

That's a far better selection that I have and I've been collecting for quite some time. Of course I burn them up faster than I buy them

My daily drivers are 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" cobalt roughers, 3/8" and 1/2" HSS two flutes for AL, 3/8" and 1/2" HSS four flute for steel. Mixed in with some chamfer bits made from old cutters this small selection does about 90% of my work. Most of the time it's more important to have a cutter that is sharp rather than have a specific size. The other sizes I have were bought surplus or are left over from previous jobs and are in no particular sorting. If I need a size I don't have for a project I just pry open my wallet and buy it. It doesn't happen that often that it's going to break me.

One can use either two flute or four flute on both AL and steel but I keep them separated and only use the two flutes on AL so they stay sharp, otherwise it's just too confusing as to whats been used on what.

Mostly whether I'm using 3/8" or 1/2" depends on whether my ER chuck is installed as ER16 only goes to 3/8". I'd rather use a smaller mill than change chucks if I can help it. I try to plan out the work to minimize collet/chuck changes. If I"m going to finish up in 3/8" then I've got 3/8" spotters, wigglers, and roughers to start off with so I'm not juggling collets all afternoon. This isn't always possible but when it works that makes things go real smooth.

The one special I'd add to your list is a reverse helix mill. They really save your bacon on thin pieces.

Your going to have to play with the larger sizes to see what work on your mill. It's nice to have a mill that is wider than your stock but it isn't always possible nor is it necessary. Larger sizes also mean less flutes in the cut which can be bad, as in more chatter at best or, at worst, grabbing you work and throwing it across the room.

Your rig is not stiff enough for carbide, they'll just chip. Use cobalt instead when you need to run too hot for HSS. I'm not saying you'll never use carbide buy if you come to rely on it you'll find yourself burning up a lot of expensive cutters for no reason.

Looks like you're all set to make some chip there Ageless, get milling!

 

[Ageless]

Hello All;
Thank you for the replies!

For "ksouers", I purchased a optional 3" (75mm) carbide insert facing mill when I bought the milling machine.
So regarding a Fly Cutter I will hold off and see the results of the Face Mill!

Great comment on getting a roughing cutter or two and see how they work!

A little bit more about my machine a ZAY7045FG/1, the weight of the machine is around 800 pound or 375 Kilo's give or take a bit.
It sits on a steel stand especially made for the milling machine. This unit has a power feed unit that works on the X axis. I decided to go with the R-8 Taper and now have a full set of R-8 Collets from I believe 1/16" up to 1" in size. The motor is a 2 Hp 220Volt model
which seems to have a lot of power, the transmission is a oil cooled six speed transmission.

I have now spent maybe 6 hours working with the machine and as a whole am very happy with it.

Thank you again everyone for the comments. :bow:

 

[hammers-n-nails]

that face mill is real nice to have around mine came from grizzly, something about using it though, on my setup you have got to have the feed rate up pretty high or it leaves a bad finish and i think only one insert does all the cutting when going slow, might not be the case with a more expensive one but it took me a long time to figure that out.

 

[ieezitin]

Ageless.

In my humble opinion Milling is about metal removal, I do not have a mill ( I do its in pieces ) so I do all my milling on my lathes. This may sound like it’s a disadvantage on the contrary it cheaper and quicker. Face plate and independent chucks set ups are very quick, then the metal to be removed is done by HSS bits or what ever you run.

As you know the price for end mills are high and without complicated grinding set ups are near impossible to sharpen. Now there are certain things only a mill can do and this machine is a must in our shops, but I bet you could do 70% milling operations this way then put the piece on the mill.

Another advantage of thinking milling on the lathe is its forcing you to think about ways to be creative in your endeavor, in turn making you more proficient at your skill.

Fly cutters are a must 9 times out of 10 they will always give you better results than any end mill. The great thing there easy to make and you can dictate the size. A little tip here don’t throw away those broken taps as these can be made into superb fly cutter bits. Cheap as dirt.

Now if you don’t own a lathe ignore all of above.

Hope this helps. Anthony.