Radius, Bead Tool

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The Corliss project plans calls for a number of radiused edges, and a few beads. The edges I usually did with a file, belt sander, a bead is a bit tougher as it is a positive standout feature and will show much more if done poorly.

Having a yet as untried Radius and Angle Dresser for the surface grinder it was as good time as any to give it a go.
A wheel was dressed with a 1/16"R and ground a good looking groove in a piece of HSS bit. On the opposite end a right and left 1/16R were also ground in.

cranlshaftbeadtool012.jpg


This is the L&R radius end

cranlshaftbeadtool011.jpg


Results when used, The material is 12L14, L to Right, L Radius, plunge cut of 3/8 bit with 1/8" bead form, bead form on a .130 flange, another L Radius.

cranlshaftbeadtool003.jpg


Most folks make their own form tools like this.

A question to you, would anyone be interested in purchasing a form tool such as this? is it worth $10, 15, 20. Let me hear thoughts on the subject. Thanks
 
FWIW, I have used a corner rounding endmill mounted on a lathe toolpost to put a radius on the right end of workpiece.
 
MachineTom said:
A question to you, would anyone be interested in purchasing a form tool such as this? is it worth $10, 15, 20. Let me hear thoughts on the subject. Thanks

absolutely worth some coin especially the beading tool as they are a but hard to grind but one size cove is just a bit to specialized a market maybe set? i would buy some it looks like once the top has worn down a bit you could lick the top on the surface grinder to restore the edges nice idea ;)
 
Here are some brazed carbide radius cutters may give you an idea of pricing, but how will people sharpen them?

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Concave_Brazed_Tools.html

I notice you have a lot of chatter marks on the righthand end, it would be better to turn down either side of the bead with conventional tools and then just use the form tool to round the bit left in the middle, if it were brass then you could probably do it all with the form tool, the zero rake you have would also help here.

You may also want to think about grinding teh end like this as it will allow more than one bead to be placed closer together, I have a profile like this for my spindle moulder and its quite useful.

Jason
 
The chatter marks were my fault, 400 Rs too fast, slowed the plunge cut to 100 R as you can see no chatter. Work was .687D

I have seen the carbide radius tools, but only Right cutters, no left or full bead.

The front clearance is 7°, the profile was cut the same angle, so it can just be top dressed without losing profile.
 

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