Quick change toolposts---again

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I use the same tool post on my boxford this is what i ended up with
PC300004.jpg

PC300005.jpg

I also softened some large tools i had and machined them to fit the tool post
PC240138.jpg

PC240123.jpg
 
WARNING - TOOL ENVY!!!!

I'd kill for that Boxford!
 
Can anyone explain to me why everyone seems not to have their compound slide square to the cross slide, and why, if you grind up your tools to the correct angles or use tipped tooling, do you always swing your QCTP around the place rather than being perfectly square to the job, as Doubleboost shows on his lathe, which the tools are designed to be used at.

I use my compound a lot for taking accurate cuts off a face, or turning stepped shoulders in conjunction with a saddle stop, which you can't do, without resorting to calculations of angles.

The only time mine goes off square is when I am either taper turning or thread cutting, or when I require very fine feeds for toolpost grinding. So really I don't need the extra handle on top that everyone seems to crave for. I just use a normal spanner on the nut on the rare occasion it is called for.

It might just be me, but you seem to be losing one half of your quickly set accurate settings by moving things around so much, and you are also not presenting the cutting tools to the job at the correct angles. Maybe that is why there is a plethora of people having troubles with such things as parting off and bad surface finishes, or even just getting down to accurate sizes.

Or is it being done because you don't grind up the correct tools for the job in the first place, and are trying to make one tool do the job of several?

This has baffled me for many years why so many people do it this way.
 
Bogs---In days of old, (when I was about 15 years old) in "metal shop" at school, we were taught to have the top slide set at about 30 degrees swing to the right of the bottom slide. I have no particular idea why.---And you are absolutely correct----When set that way, the tool is not even close to being in the correct rotational aspect to the workpeice, so to compensate for that fact, one must then rotate the toolholder. About the only thing I can say in favour of having it set that way, is that it gains you a great deal more clearance from the tailstock, if the bed of your lathe is not a long one.
 
we were taught to have the top slide set at about 30 degrees swing to the right of the bottom slide.
The 29 1/2 degree angle is for threading.
IIRC if you set the compound at 10 degrees 1 thou on the compound will advance the tool .0001 this comes in handy for doing precision pistons and bores for Stirling engines etc.
Tin
 
Correct Tin!!
It is so that in threading or single pointing when you advance tool into material you only cut on the leading edge of tool. This will result in a much stronger thread and not a torn thread. I also use the 10 degree for when I'm trying to hold very tight tolerance an parts.
 
I just finished turning the knurling tool that comes with the "kit" into a third tool holder. That material, whatever the toolholders is made of---can be cut with HSS tooling, but its tougher than whalebone.--I cut the end with the knurling wheels off with my bandsaw. I should have had carbide endmills to cut the slot through all the way----My 3/8" HSS endmill needs to go for sharpening now. I ended up having to carbide drill the holes through for two additional set screws, and fortunately I had a brand new M8-1.5 tap. so---I have a third lathe cutting tool holder now. If I'd known how difficult it was going to be to mill and drill the existing one I might have started with a fresh peice of 1018/1020 mild steel and made the whole thing.-Aw well, what the heck---wife and grand daughter have went to the show to see a kids movie. I didn't have anything else to amuse myself with this evening anyways.
 
Regarding the angle of the tool holder, I like it at 30 degrees for the following; the knobs don't get in the way of each other and for facing, an advance of 1 unit of the compound moves you 1/2 unit closer to the headstock. Its the old Pythagorean theorem thing.
 
Thanks for starting this thread Brian.
I have been thinking of adding a quick change tool post to my lathe which is the same as yours, but I am not as brave as you when it comes to modifying the existing parts. From what you have seen, would it be possible to modify a longer bolt to match the way the existing one mounts and then make a collar to adapt it to the new tool post? You mentioned having to use a wrench now to adjust it. Would it be possible to make an adjusting handle like your original one?
Gary
 
I have the BusyBee 10x18 and when I posted the link I had not checked the thread on the toolpost bolt. It isn't 8mm - it is 10mm.

If you wanted to make such an adapter I suppose you could do it as the AXA used 9/16.
 
HI Brian,

Glad its all working out with the toolpost.

I leave my compound at 30 degrees but I leave my AXA square to the spindle axis.

I never have to set a threading tool square....just put it in the holder, get it on center of the bar and drop it in.

I too don't like the knurl, but interstingly enough they are removeable on mine and I have some better quality knurls that I could use...

Dave
 
Brian:
Put me down as a staunch supporter of the Aloris AXA. I've been using mine for many years and have never had a problem of any kind with it. The biggest negative I can think of is the initial cost.
Caddy
 
Just a quick follow up post on this qctp. It takes a bit of getting used to, and as someone pointed out, you can never have enough tool holders. The other day I made the finger screws for attaching the battery leads to my kerzel engine. This involved turning a diameter, knurling, turning a taper, and using a cut off tool. Three tool changes in all with two "toolholder angle" changes. It was a pure pleasure to use. The nice thing about it is that once a tool is set up at the correct height in the holder, and locked, you never have to monkey around with spacers again, no matter how many times you change that tool, untill the time comes when you have to remove the tool from its specific holder to resharpen it. I really like the tool, and though it is not a definite must for the hobby machinist, it certainly removes a lot of the friggery and set-up each time a tool is changed.
 

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