powder coat vs. paint ?

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Glen:
i like your thoughts on roughing up the surface for painting. but which type of vinegar is the best to use. like white or regular?

also would a product like clr or a drain opener work or even a product called lime-away? the reason i mentioned lime-away is because where i worked as a tool maker we used lime-away to clean off steel after an edm cut to get rid of the sludge. and on our holding fixtures and clamps we used lime-away to clean the stainless steel.

Don't know which is higher in the % of the acetic acid in the mix but I use white vinegar, Costco's sells it in larger than gallon sized bottles. You might be able to go tho the brands web site and find out or email a question. It works on the galvanizing quickly considering it can be used on your salad or fries and chips tonight.

Here is the NIOSH Safety info for sodium Hydroxide (drain opener,lye etc)
http://www.cdc.gov/Niosh/npg/npgd0565.html the important thing to remember when using it is low levels of exposure either skin, eyes or respiration can cause problems.

When using it as a patina generator chemical it has to be watched closely so it doesn't go past the point you want and the effect you want to achieve. So using it to remove plating, coating,or other stuff, you have to watch it.

The Lime Away is made up of phosphoric acid and other patented ingredients. Save some money and by the Phosphoric acid at the big box stores or auto stores
Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water-soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer." As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes). After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted, it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains.


CLR is a combination of safer acids, Lactic acid (sour mild acid) and Gluconic Acid (A crystalline acid obtained from glucose by oxidation; used in cleaning metals.) Along with water and Lauryldimethyl Hydroxysultaine (viscosity control agent and foaming agent) and Propylene Glycol Normal Butyl Ether (The primary use is in the manufacture of household and industrial cleaning products such as glass cleaners, metal cleaners and hard surface cleaners. It is also used as a grease and paint remover, and as a solvent to regulate coalescence.) Not vinegar as claimed on some sites.

Don't know if the above is any help but you can achieve the same results with the generic chemicals and some time.