Making small D-bits?

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shred

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So I'm poking along making parts for the sterling fan and find some parts desire a 1/16" reamed hole. I don't have any reamers that small (somehow I thought I did), so is a D-bit in that size something that makes any sort of sense, especially for a .700" deep hole? The only one I've ever made was about 1/4" size and that was only as an experiment. Proper reamers 1/16 are about $10 @ Enco, but also 3+ days away :-[


 
Go make one! If You made a 1/4" one You can make a 1/16" one.
Did the 1/4" cut ?
I make mine all the time. Just make sure it is sharp and go in only 1/2 of the relive.
Hilmar
 
Question: I understand the plans call for a 1/16" reamed hole, but in a diameter that small, I can't see too much of a difference between a reamed 1/16th inch hole vs. one that was simply drilled with a good twist drill at a correct speed. I'm guessing you can come awfully close to a "reamed" finish by first drilling it out 0.050" or so, then following with a quality 1/16" drill.

In other words, will it work with a drilled hole?
 
Hi
Id be inclined to ream on a rotating part more for the finish in the bore than the size.
On most of the engines on here +- 5 thou isnt going to ruin the job but 1 or 2 thou should be
a guide line to work too.
I think id bite the bullet and pay the 10 for a reamer, least you have it for another day and another job.
D bar reamers are a superb tool but depend on the workmanship that goes into them and the quality of the stock they are made from.

Cheers Kevin
 
Swede said:
Question: I understand the plans call for a 1/16" reamed hole, but in a diameter that small, I can't see too much of a difference between a reamed 1/16th inch hole vs. one that was simply drilled with a good twist drill at a correct speed. I'm guessing you can come awfully close to a "reamed" finish by first drilling it out 0.050" or so, then following with a quality 1/16" drill.

In other words, will it work with a drilled hole?
Thanks for the comments so far.

Looks like about half the reams are for press-fits / loctite fits and the others for rod-through-gland type surfaces. The glands can use the finish, but with the loctite press-fit the finish doesn't matter a lot but being close on-size and concentric to other features is what's needed there. I made one hole the other day .0650" instead of .0625" since my tailstock was off a tad and that hosed the fit enough I need to redo it.
 
Having holes go oversized is not uncommon, and as you noticed, a misalignment can in fact cause them. Aluminum especially tends to drill oversized, especially when the hole is deep.

One way to avoid a small hole (in a small part) from going large is to drill it first perhaps 8 or 10 thousandths shy of the target, then remove it from the lathe. Switch the job to a drill press, and drill out the final hole by allowing the part to "float" a bit and find its own center. Another technique - if you've ever actually miked a small, wire-gauged drill, you'll perhaps have noticed that they mike slightly smaller than the hole they are supposed to drill. All drills actually cut a hole physically larger than the space that they occupy, otherwise, they'd simply stick in the hole! I hope this makes sense. The drills are ground to a specific dimension with the knowledge that the hole they will cut will be ever so slightly larger than the physical size of the drill. This effect, as a %, is more pronounced in the small wire gauge drills than a heftier drill bit.

What this means - If I have the mating part or pin, I'll often try sneaking up on the final hole by drilling it out one or two wire gauge sizes smaller, and physically checking with the mating part. For example, rather than drill straightaway with a 1/16" drill you might try a #53 first. If that works, you're done. If not, proceed to the 1/16" drill, and since you've pre-drilled, the subsequent hole should be closer to 0.0625" rather than oversized. HTH - I really can't see the need for a 1/16" reamer.

If you ultimately need to make a 1/16" d-bit or other homemade cutter, you might want to try a nice little piece of 1/16" music wire, and simply grind a 1/2 flute into the tip with a dremel cutoff wheel. It won't last, being spring-tempered carbon steel, but it should ream a hole or two in aluminum or brass.

One last option - take a 1/16" drill bit (they're cheap), chuck it in a drill press, and lightly apply a fine diamond or oil stone to the drill's flutes while it's spinning. You'll probably ruin the drill bit, but it's possible that a light stoning like that might cause it to drill 0.0005" or 0.001" less than it normally would. Obviously use it in a pre-drilled (undersized) hole, and check the outcome on scrap first. Good luck!
 

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