jan ridders internal valve plasma mastigater
- Thread starter kcmillin
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Congratulations, Kel.
It looks like you have everything under control there. Just refinements from here on out. Thanks for keeping us up to date with your posts.
Thm: Thm:
Gail in NM
It looks like you have everything under control there. Just refinements from here on out. Thanks for keeping us up to date with your posts.
Thm: Thm:
Gail in NM
zeeprogrammer
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Congratulations kel!!!
The video post was great and I felt good for you.
The post on having accomplished it in 6 days was great and I felt bad for me. :big:
Hm..do I add this engine to my list?
The video post was great and I felt good for you.
The post on having accomplished it in 6 days was great and I felt bad for me. :big:
Hm..do I add this engine to my list?
Kel,
I'm sorry I missed this one, I could have given you some pointers but am glad you and the guys solved the inevitible problems. I made 3 or 4 sets of pistons for mine, including an aluminium one which of course, as thought, locked up solid!
Just for the benefit of others, strangely, and contarary to the belief of many others (including Jan Ridders himself), mine likes to run with oil. I use 10W40 semi synthetic engine oil which I think helps maintain the seal and certainly prevents residues from building up and causing excessive friction. This means it takes around 5 minutes or so to get going until the oil is up to temperature and not too viscous. But it also means I haven't had to strip and clean anything since I first got it running properly. I also bought some IDA (Industrial Meths) which burns cleaner and hotter which helps.
One thing I need to try is running without oil again with this new alcohol. The engine ran faster without oil before but only for a very limited period until it got sutted up. That may not happen with this new stuff.
A different design I am building as my next project incorporates oil cups into the design to prevent adherence of unburnt residues.
I know there are two conflicting ideas on this but there are examples of both working!
Anway, very well done indeed, I only hope posts like ours and Blogs can help other people get their engines running.
Nick
I'm sorry I missed this one, I could have given you some pointers but am glad you and the guys solved the inevitible problems. I made 3 or 4 sets of pistons for mine, including an aluminium one which of course, as thought, locked up solid!
Just for the benefit of others, strangely, and contarary to the belief of many others (including Jan Ridders himself), mine likes to run with oil. I use 10W40 semi synthetic engine oil which I think helps maintain the seal and certainly prevents residues from building up and causing excessive friction. This means it takes around 5 minutes or so to get going until the oil is up to temperature and not too viscous. But it also means I haven't had to strip and clean anything since I first got it running properly. I also bought some IDA (Industrial Meths) which burns cleaner and hotter which helps.
One thing I need to try is running without oil again with this new alcohol. The engine ran faster without oil before but only for a very limited period until it got sutted up. That may not happen with this new stuff.
A different design I am building as my next project incorporates oil cups into the design to prevent adherence of unburnt residues.
I know there are two conflicting ideas on this but there are examples of both working!
Anway, very well done indeed, I only hope posts like ours and Blogs can help other people get their engines running.
Nick
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PutPutman, I am using denatured alchohol from the harware store. I think its used as a solvent. But it works great. With some flat wicks for kerosene lamps rolled up and put into a brass tube sticking out a a genuine US mint $1 silver Eagle case. I know, plastic is a bad idea. but I needed something quick.
Nick, After I had it running well last night, I got up this morning to run it again, and it wouldnt go. So I took your advise and put a tiny film of tapping oil, I know its not 10-40, but It ran after that, and for along time too.
the hardest part seems to be the position of the wick. VERRY SPECIFIC, there is no room for error.
thanlks everyone,
kel
Nick, After I had it running well last night, I got up this morning to run it again, and it wouldnt go. So I took your advise and put a tiny film of tapping oil, I know its not 10-40, but It ran after that, and for along time too.
the hardest part seems to be the position of the wick. VERRY SPECIFIC, there is no room for error.
thanlks everyone,
kel
Kel, you are right. I can only find 2 wick positions for running. One is where Jan ridders suggests and the other is bizzarely the other side of the port. I think they just correspond to the flame not being blown about by the air / gas being expelled. I was going to try a smaller flame directly underneath the port as it should draw in the hotter part of the flame but the thing you want to avoid is drawing in any cold air so that may not work.
Anyway, they are nice when you can get them to work, very pleasing to watch. MIght have to give mine a run tonight!
Nick
ps what's you're next project then?!
Anyway, they are nice when you can get them to work, very pleasing to watch. MIght have to give mine a run tonight!
Nick
ps what's you're next project then?!
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Nick, Now that I have completed and got running this flame eater designed by jan ridders, I would likle to build one of my own design. Ive had an idea for a twin piston, single cylinder flame eater. I have posted this design in the Q&A section under "Design Questions"
here is the link.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=7933.0
I still dont know if I can get it to work. Theoreticly it might work better that a convential, single piston design. But it is not proven. I still have not figured out the valve setup, but a day or two on th drafting table should fix that.
These engines are notorious for not running, I was blown away when mine cranked over for the first time. I hope to better that feeling with a design of my own.
If I draw up some plans for my prototype flame eater, should I post it here?
I would love it if someone else would build this design also, so we could exchange thoughts, and change design elements around to get this thing running. We could be the first to see a design. But I also have some more thinking to do on the subject. so it could be a few weeks before I get a final design.
anyone?
thanks
kel
here is the link.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=7933.0
I still dont know if I can get it to work. Theoreticly it might work better that a convential, single piston design. But it is not proven. I still have not figured out the valve setup, but a day or two on th drafting table should fix that.
These engines are notorious for not running, I was blown away when mine cranked over for the first time. I hope to better that feeling with a design of my own.
If I draw up some plans for my prototype flame eater, should I post it here?
I would love it if someone else would build this design also, so we could exchange thoughts, and change design elements around to get this thing running. We could be the first to see a design. But I also have some more thinking to do on the subject. so it could be a few weeks before I get a final design.
anyone?
thanks
kel
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Well, 1 day after getting it running it failed to show any life at all. It was dead. No suprise, considering the bore had machine marks in it still, along with a bit of a taper. the piston and valve were slopped out. Its amazing it ran at all.
So the day I discovered it was not a runner I get a package it the mail. Boom, there it is, the answer to my question, graphite and leaded steel. Courtesy of GailinNM. (thanks again) Needless to say I started work right away.
Taking advice from everyone, and deciding what the best solution would be to lap the bore straight and smooth. I started with 100 grit on a wood mandrell, worked my way to 400. Then I used medium and fine lapping compound on a brass mandrell. Well I was not satisfied with this, so I worked up to a 600 grit sandp[aper and got a near mirror like finish in th steel.
So now its time to make a piston. I decided to go with the graphite. After getting them done and fitted I got the engine to run again, however it would only run for short periods of time. I was told the exp[ansion of graphite it different than steel so I suspected this Now it time to make another piston. This time I will use leaded steel. And it runs like a champ again. I got a few more tanks threw her and its running good.
This engine was quite a challenge to get running, and thanks to GailInNM, and all your advice, I got a nice runner.
Thanks again,
kel
ps
I will get some pictures up as soon as I can.
So the day I discovered it was not a runner I get a package it the mail. Boom, there it is, the answer to my question, graphite and leaded steel. Courtesy of GailinNM. (thanks again) Needless to say I started work right away.
Taking advice from everyone, and deciding what the best solution would be to lap the bore straight and smooth. I started with 100 grit on a wood mandrell, worked my way to 400. Then I used medium and fine lapping compound on a brass mandrell. Well I was not satisfied with this, so I worked up to a 600 grit sandp[aper and got a near mirror like finish in th steel.
So now its time to make a piston. I decided to go with the graphite. After getting them done and fitted I got the engine to run again, however it would only run for short periods of time. I was told the exp[ansion of graphite it different than steel so I suspected this Now it time to make another piston. This time I will use leaded steel. And it runs like a champ again. I got a few more tanks threw her and its running good.
This engine was quite a challenge to get running, and thanks to GailInNM, and all your advice, I got a nice runner.
Thanks again,
kel
ps
I will get some pictures up as soon as I can.
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Now that I got a good runner its worhty of a base. I had some Walnut and maple left over from some christmas presents, so I decided to combile the two. I wanted to make it using techniques from time past. So after getting all the peices cut I held it all together with some 1/8 inch brass rod, no glu at all. and finished it with some good old fashioned toung oil. But I was not quite done yet, I decided to put all that on some brass legs. So I turned a few out of sonme 11/16 round bar.
here it is.
thats all foir this one.
ok, maybee a little more polishing and she will be done, or maybee some more brass. Ah who am I kidding, these things are never "really" finished.
thanks againg for the help.
kel
here it is.
thats all foir this one.
ok, maybee a little more polishing and she will be done, or maybee some more brass. Ah who am I kidding, these things are never "really" finished.
thanks againg for the help.
kel
