HasBrouck #3

[Ed]

Has any one built the Has Brouck #3? I just started on one and would like to see if any one else has built one. Thanks. Ed

 

[Philjoe5]

Hi Ed,
You picked a great engine to build. It was the first engine I built that ran successfully. I built several versions of that engine, 2 cylinder, 1.25x and 1.5x scaleup, and vertical versions too. They all run great on air or steam.

Keep us posted on your progress and ask any questions you may have. Several members here have built this engine too so there's a lot of experience around

Cheers,
Phil

 

[Sshire]

Ed
Funny this came up. I just ordered the plan book from Village Press because my "engines to be built" list wasn't long enough.

I'll be following your build for sure.

Not to hijack the thread but...
Will a #10 run on a PMR Horizontal Boiler?

 

[Philjoe5]

Stan,
I built a #10 and having researched steam requirements a bit I would say performance would be unsatisfactory. The #10 is an air (and steam) gobbler. Other more experienced folks may want to chime in

Cheers,
Phil

 

[RonGinger]

Stan,
I built a #10 and having researched steam requirements a bit I would say performance would be unsatisfactory. The #10 is an air (and steam) gobbler. Other more experienced folks may want to chime in

#10 has been used in many steamboats with good success. Maybe you have the valve timing less than optimum. The second from last page in the new book has a beautiful steamboat with a #10.

 

[Philjoe5]

Ron,
I think I was misunderstood. The #10 is a very fine engine and runs very well for me on compressed air. I was responding to Stan's question as to whether it could be run using a PM Research horizontal boiler. Do you think that boiler is sufficient to power the #10?

Phil

 

[RonGinger]

NO, the #10 is really not a model, its full size stem launch engine. I dont think the PMR boiler would come close to running it.

 

[Ed]

So far I have the base made with the hole cut for the flywheel. I made the base out of 3/8 " angle iron. I now have the cylinder block made ready for drilling.Speaking about the flywheel, I plan on using a cast iron counter weight that is 1" thick. To make the hub thickness of 13/8" I plan on silver soldering a piece to the hub area to make that thicker.Ed

 

[Philjoe5]

Ed,
What's the diameter of your flywheel going to be? A 1" thick flywheel that's 4" diameter will be more than adequate for this engine. Looking forward to your progress.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[Ed]

I haven't got to the flywheel yet just doing some pre thinking.The plans call for a 6" flywheel with a 1 3/8" thick hub.

 

[Philjoe5]

Ed,
You'll have some leeway with the flywheel. I have a 4" spoked cast iron flywheel on this engine with a hub thickness of 1". I bought it from Martin's Models who makes very good castings. It's this one:

http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPflywheels-subfiles/FW045-6S-S-RG-XXXX-CI.html

I've also made steel flywheels for my other versions of this engine.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[Ed]

I just finished making the steam valve. I don't understand how the valve works. It looks like steam goes to both ends of the cylinder at the same time. Ed

 

[Philjoe5]

Ed,
The valve works this way.



In this picture it is shown in an approximately neutral position. That is, air or steam entering the intake port hits the solid outer diameter of the valve and no action occurs. Now rock the valve about 30 degrees in one direction and air is directed to one end of the cylinder through that passage you drilled from the end of the cylinder. Rock the valve 30 degrees in the other direction, from neutral and air is directed to the other end of the cylinder.

Hope this helps

Phil

 

[Ed]

Thanks I now see how it works.

 

[Ed]

Pictures of the parts that I've made so far.

 

[Ed]

Pictures of how I held the guide and cap together to be drilled.

 

[Philjoe5]

Very nice work Ed. I like how you finished the valve rocker arm. Looks like you've gotten pretty far along and will soon have a runner!

Cheers,
Phil

 

[Ed]

These pictures show how I machined the openings in the guide after the fact.I used a 3/16 drill in the corners then a 3/16 mill to cut between the holes.

 

[Ed]

Mill Picture

 

[Philjoe5]

That's a good looking crosshead guide nicely done

Cheers,
Phil