First Steam Engine

[tup48]

Just started to build my first Steam Engine.
It will be the Mill Engine Number 3 designed by Ray HasBrouck in Issue 15 Model Engine Builder Mag..
All though I have built Stirling Engines and some IC Engines I have not built a Steam Engine.
I would like to put a governor on it.
At this time I have not decided what type or how I should drive the governor.
On the left side of the flywheel I have left a space for a pulley, gear or a sprocket as a way to get power to drive the governor. There is a spacer between the flywheel and the bearing where the drive for the governor will come off of.
If any one has any ideals as to what type of governor and what would be the best way to drive it, I would like to hear them. Take your time as it will awhile before I get to the Governor.

Here is pic: of what I have so far.

Richard

 

[Metal Mickey]

Seems nice work Richard, theres quite a bit about governers here...you'll get some help I am sure.....what we all like is pictures so keep them coming......MM

 

[Brian Rupnow]

TUP48---DO A SEARCH THRU MY POSTS---i HAVE A TON OF STUFF ON FLYBALL GOVERNORS ON HERE, AS WELL AS PLANS AND VIDEOS OF THEM RUNNING.---bRIAN
Damn, I hate Caps Lock!!!
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3708.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3472.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3559.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3562.0

 

[tup48]

Hi Brian:
Just had a look at your governors and I believe that there are lots of good ideals for the one that I will want to use on my engine.
What did you use for a belt? I could use a large “O” ring but yours looks to be a lot better looking for this type of an engine.


Richard

 

[Brian Rupnow]

You got it!! I always use o-rings as my drive belts. They have a good coefficient of friction, last a long time, and are dirt cheap.

 

[kustomkb]

Looks like a great start.

Can you tell us about the IC in your avatar?

Kevin.

 

[tup48]

Hi Kevin:
I was inspired by one of Philip Duclos engines “his Gearless Hit & Miss”. But I had a set of gears that I had made and wanted to use them so it has gears in it.
It has a 1.250" bore and 1.500" stroke.
It is the best running engine that I have built so far. It will usually start the first time and run as long as it has fuel in the tank.
Having a vertical piston there is vary little vibration.
If this steam engine runs half as good I will be a happy camper.
I also built a horizontal hit and miss that weights about 45 pounds and I have to chase it across the workbench when it is running.

Richard

 

[tup48]

First Run
Just had the first run and so far I’m happy with it. Now I just need to get a governor built for it then tear it down, clean it up and put some paint on it.

Can be seen it -
http://s579.photobucket.com/albums/ss234/TUP-48/?action=view&current=FirstRun_0001.flv

There is a knock in the engine ane I have no idea where it is coming from. If any one has any idea please let me know.

Thanks
Richard

 

[Philjoe5]

Congratulations Richard on a successful build and nice running engine :bow:. I’ve built several #3 mill engines in various sizes and configurations. I’ve experienced the knocking noise you’re referring to and in some cases it’s pretty severe. I’ve located two sources of this noise in my engines. One is timing. If it’s off you can get quite an air hammer so you might want to tweak that. The other is excessive clearance between the eccentric strap and the bearing block. Ray is quite generous in his plans allowing 0.031” clearance. This can allow the strap to slap or knock between the bearing block and eccentric. I’ve made my latest engine with only 0.010” clearance which is more than adequate. Hope this is helpful,

Cheers,
Phil

 

[tup48]

Phil;
You may be right on the timing, I have no idea what the timing should be. Just played with it until it ran. Could use some help on that. I have only 0.005" clearance between the eccentric strap and the bearing block. It sounds like it is coming from the head end of the engine and it dose it only on the in or forward stroke of the piston, if that is any help. When I turn it over by hand it is fine.

Richard

 

[Philjoe5]

I found the best results in timing occur when the air pressures on each side of the piston are just about balanced at piston TDC. This occurs when the flat in the valve is roughly in the dead horizontal position at TDC. The valve should then rock in a roughly equal arc going left and right as the piston goes through its cycle.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[tup48]

Just finished my build of Ray HasBronck Mill Engine #3. I added Brian’s Flyball Governor to the engine. Took me almost as long to build the governor as it did the engine.
I used a set of Miter Gears (Boston G463Y) from www.smallparts.com 32pitch 24 teeth 1:1 for the governor.
It is running about 470 RPM’s with no load at about 50PSI. I would like to see it run a little slower.
A special thanks to Brian for his Flyball Governor plans.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSlD9Pl_z84[/ame]

 

[tup48]

Here are pix of the governor.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Tup48---I love it!!! I found that the secret to making the engine run a bit more slowly is to use 5/8" balls instead of 1/2" balls on the governor. The added weight makes them fly out more quickly, so the engine will run slower.---Brian