First Flywheel
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Rick,
My hand is permanently disfigured from the block lettering training I went through in High School
Remember those....write "H" 50 times IDENTICALLY in a row.... :
My printing is so bad now I don't even want to think about it....... :big:
It's a good thing I took typing.....and a god send for spell check :big:
Dave
My hand is permanently disfigured from the block lettering training I went through in High School
Remember those....write "H" 50 times IDENTICALLY in a row.... :
My printing is so bad now I don't even want to think about it....... :big:
It's a good thing I took typing.....and a god send for spell check :big:
Dave
Not to be a thread thief, but---in 1965, when I started in engineering, ALL calculations were made using "Smoleys 4 Combined Tables of Logarithmic Functions". All new engineering students/apprentices had to have their own copy, along with a slide rule, 2 mechanical pencils, a "pencil pointer" a compass, a protractor, 2 set squares, and an "erasing shield". Pay was a stunning $53 per week for a 40 hour week, and night school for engineering maths was mandatory. I hated slide rules---You could get an answer very quickly, but I never was able to decide whether my answer was in tens, hundreds, or thousands---I remember about 1972, when the first pocket calculator came out---It cost $365 and was chained and padlocked to the chief draftsmans desk!!! Damn, I'm old!!!
My born on date is a bit after that. ;D....I bought the slide rule for giggles at a "boot" sale, figuring, what the hell lets see if I can figure this out...I think I looked at a couple of times inquisitively....but I didn't get past that :-\
Brian Rupnow said:
in 1968 .........
........... I started in a UK Drawing office for the princely sum of £6:3:4d ($12.66) for a 40 hour week ............. and I was quite well paid compared to some of my mate's :wall:I appears nowt's changed much over here for the past 40 years really
CC
OK back to the thread...
"I need a few thoughts regarding flywheels. I'm busy with my Laminar Flow engine, and I started on the flywheel today. I am making a steel ring and I want to press a brass disc into it. How much interference will I need to make a TIGHT fit? (64mm ring ID) Also, I'm not sure how to fit the flywheel to the shaft. I've got a 6mm ground shaft and bearings from a retired VCR.
If the shaft is extra long you can make a toolmakers reamer out of the extra part and fit the flywheel to the shaft swimmingly. Bog's comments about press fits are excellent. If you want a sketch of how to make that reamer, Let me know....Its not difficult and for one piece in brass, it doesn't need to be hard...just sharp.
I would finish the center hub ( ID and OD) first, and then press it into the rim which is also finsihed in one chucking.
You may have to mount the assembly on a mandrel to take a skim cut after if it is not quite square or has a touch of run-out......sorry to go on so with this thread.
Regards,
Dave
"I need a few thoughts regarding flywheels. I'm busy with my Laminar Flow engine, and I started on the flywheel today. I am making a steel ring and I want to press a brass disc into it. How much interference will I need to make a TIGHT fit? (64mm ring ID) Also, I'm not sure how to fit the flywheel to the shaft. I've got a 6mm ground shaft and bearings from a retired VCR.
If the shaft is extra long you can make a toolmakers reamer out of the extra part and fit the flywheel to the shaft swimmingly. Bog's comments about press fits are excellent. If you want a sketch of how to make that reamer, Let me know....Its not difficult and for one piece in brass, it doesn't need to be hard...just sharp.
I would finish the center hub ( ID and OD) first, and then press it into the rim which is also finsihed in one chucking.
You may have to mount the assembly on a mandrel to take a skim cut after if it is not quite square or has a touch of run-out......sorry to go on so with this thread.
Regards,
Dave
Plain toolmakers reamer....at least as I learned it.
The taper is about 6/1....I don't think its too critical
Remember a polished cutter will cut with a polished finish
As for a taper bushing. You need a D-bit...which is a little differant.
I would bore the flywheel to the taper you want and without moving the compound, turn a piece of tool steel to the same male taper. Cut back half of it +.003" shy of on center ( D/2 + .003"). I would harden this tool as you may want to use it over again. Harden and draw to light straw at the cutting edge. To do that, clean and polish the hardened D-bit at the cutting edge. You only care how hard it is at the cutting edge! Hold the tool vertical with the cutting end up and heat the tang end with a torch. You will watch as the heat flows up and changes the color of the bit ( use a magnifying glass as it goes quick). When the cutting edge is light straw QUENCH and be quick about it! Stone it on the flat to a polished finish and it will cut nicely.
Regards,
Dave
The taper is about 6/1....I don't think its too critical
Remember a polished cutter will cut with a polished finish
As for a taper bushing. You need a D-bit...which is a little differant.
I would bore the flywheel to the taper you want and without moving the compound, turn a piece of tool steel to the same male taper. Cut back half of it +.003" shy of on center ( D/2 + .003"). I would harden this tool as you may want to use it over again. Harden and draw to light straw at the cutting edge. To do that, clean and polish the hardened D-bit at the cutting edge. You only care how hard it is at the cutting edge! Hold the tool vertical with the cutting end up and heat the tang end with a torch. You will watch as the heat flows up and changes the color of the bit ( use a magnifying glass as it goes quick). When the cutting edge is light straw QUENCH and be quick about it! Stone it on the flat to a polished finish and it will cut nicely.
Regards,
Dave
mklotz
Well-Known Member
Ok, that's enough of that.
rake60
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OK Gentlemen
This thread has been locked by the Moderation Team due to
inappropriate posts. Those posts have been removed.
HMEM was designed to be a civil enviroment and it will be!
We maintain a strict 3 strike policy here.
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You can call it censorship if you wish.
I call it keeping a clean house for the decent guests.
Rick
This thread has been locked by the Moderation Team due to
inappropriate posts. Those posts have been removed.
HMEM was designed to be a civil enviroment and it will be!
We maintain a strict 3 strike policy here.
Everyone is entitled to have a bad day and say or type something they
shoulded have.
The third time we are forced to deal with that type of behavoir from
the same member they WILL be banned from HMEM forever.
There is no debate on that issue...
You can call it censorship if you wish.
I call it keeping a clean house for the decent guests.
Rick
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