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carbide_burner

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I need a few thoughts regarding flywheels. I'm busy with my Laminar Flow engine, and I started on the flywheel today. I am making a steel ring and I want to press a brass disc into it. How much interference will I need to make a TIGHT fit? (64mm ring ID) Also, I'm not sure how to fit the flywheel to the shaft. I've got a 6mm ground shaft and bearings from a retired VCR.

IMG_6228_1.JPG
 
CB,

I'd say around a .001" (0.025mm). I'd then heat the steel part to expand it and drop over the brass part and let it cool. It's called shrink fit. I'm sure somebodys going to chime in here and prove me wrong. :)

As far as fastening the shaft I guess I would used a "Loctite" type compound after making sure I had a good sliding fit on the shaft in the flywheel.

The above is strictly my opinion on how I would do it. Wait for a few others to chime in with there input. ;)

regards,
Bernd
 
I normally allow 0.0015" per inch of diameter for a shrink fit. For a 2.5" diameter, call it 0.004".
 
Also, I'm not sure how to fit the flywheel to the shaft. I've got a 6mm ground shaft and bearings from a retired VCR.

Unless your disc is very thick, you need some kind of hub. I would make a shouldered hub with the large diameter big enough to hold one or more set screws. The hub can be soft soldered or silvered soldered into the disc and then the flywheel centered up in the lathe to bore the 6 mm hole for the shaft.

6 mm is large enough to easily put a keyway in the hub and shaft but it is more common to just put a small flat on the shaft for the setscrew to seat on.
 
CB,

Here is a little flywheel fix method that I always use for low shaft torque engines. I have found it ideal for finger engines etc. It can only be used with ball raced bearings.
If using twin races, they would either have to be stacked side by side, or a small spacer between the two inner races to stop sideways pressure between the inner and outer races.

Basically, you trap the bearing inner race between the crank disc and flywheel hub. Making one complete unit with a spinning race in the middle.The thin spacers are to hold the crank and flywheel away from the outer race. They can be, within reason, almost any width, but I tend to machine a 10 thou thick boss onto the back of the flywheel boss and crank disc. The distance between the crankshaft end, and the end of the flywheel hub, can be as little as a few thou.

Doing it this way, allows narrow hubs with no room for a screw to be fitted, and it does make them look very neat, if you can file up or shape a little spinner in the lathe. But you could just as easily use a small bolt or screw with a washer.

flyfix.jpg


As I said, good for low torque engines as you are contemplating. On higher torque, the flywheels will spin off. Unless of course you loctite them up to make it a permanent fix.

I hope this has explained it well enough.

John

BTW, crap-o-cad has now been upgraded, it is now multicoloured. This upgrade can be purchased from me for the princely sum of 10 pounds ($20), P&P extra. Just send your cash payment in a plain brown envelope and I will get back to you when I have found my book of last years' Christmas stamps.
 
Hi John

Love the new multi-coloured crap-o-cad, my tenner is in the post.

I also like your flywheel fixing method. I hate those pesky grub screws that never seem to have enough bite.

John S
 
Bog,

So is it compatible with Vista?......How much RAM does it need? ;D...I suppose that depends on how hard I stuff it in my pocket hey.

.....
On Edit
....now talk about a set up...easy on the RAM response Bog,,,this is a family kinda place ;D
 
I like the "sandwitch" method. It is simple enough to make, and like you said Bogs, it will work fine on this type of engine. I don't have a reamer to make the 6mm hole in the flywheel....so I drilled it....oversiZe :( I then drilled it bigger, and then bored it out to somewhere just over 9mm, with the intention to sleeve it. Sometimes you're lucky and sometimes not..

SO: tommorrow I'll find a reamer, and make the sleeve. How often do you guys use taper sleeves? I guess if you use a taper sleeve, a key will probably not be necessary even on a flywheel that takes a bit of torque?

'later.

Flywheel.JPG
 
I need a copy of crap-o-cad myself, the tenner is in the post!
Crap-o-cad runs rings around the computer version in that it costs little, doesn't need a year long course to use it and is available away from the computer. Is crap-o-cad compatable with old-envelope V3:0 ?
 
Is crap-o-cad compatable with old-envelope V3:0 ?

:big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big:

Kind regards

Malcolm
 
I believe Bogs (the originator of Crap-o-Cad) Started out with fag packet Ver 22.18.6 But having developed the prototype through Loo Roll 128.10.3 Right up to Margin of newspaper 7.08.77 I think it should be compatible with both "old envelope V:3" and "old envelope V:3/Crayon/ felt tip

:big: :big: :big:

Malcolm
 
Pssst..... Guys!!
Save your hard earned money. I've got a freshly pirated copy of Crapo-Cad that I'll copy for half what that heathen Bogster is asking for his over priced original. Same method of payment....(grin). I'll even fax your copy to you for free.

Steve
(Don't tell Bogster ....eh? )
 
Don't you just hate people that pirate pirated programs.

For the latest upgrade (at a very modest cost) I will included a pack of 100 assorted very high quality (each one guaranteed for at least 5 feet of drawn line, which give you at least 10 seconds warning before running out), felt tip, high precision drawing instruments.
Not your usual Chinese muck either, these are genuine, fell off the back of a container ship, North Korean sweat shop doodahs.

So please, if you want quality, you know where to come to, only buy the best.

Now let this poor member get on with his flywheel post.

Bogs
 
Oooo... I like this post, it has given me an idea for another odd flywheel design ;D All will be revealed on my next (not yet started) engine!!

CB, ignore all this COC (!) nonsense.... the old version works just fine ;)

Both of my flywheels to date have had large bores which required hubs fitting to them, I am learning all the time that it is not so easy to get the damn things to spin concentrically!!!

If yours doesn't come out as well as you hope don't give up, we will get there eventually ;D



Ralph.
 
G'day all

A source of flywheels is the cast iron wheels sold as rollers for trolleys etc. I have bought, so far, a range of sizes from about 40mm to 110mm and there are bigger available. Nearly all are in the round tuit box at present. One escaped and and was turned into base for a height gauge.

The wheels need a bit of truing up. Larger wheels, not yet purchased, often have ball race bearings; to use these you would have to make a hub and press the wheel over it.

Then whem your life partner or best mate says you are off your trolley you can agree.

Regards
Ian
One good turn deserves another.
 
This hi-tech coloured crap-o-cad smacks of elitism to me!!! I think that the rest of us who have to work with one colour 2H pencils should be very disturbed about this---
 
That's funny Brian! :big:

Hell I don't even know where my 2H pencils these days! ;D

Thought I did find the whirlygig lead sharpener for the old lead holders.....It's sitting on my bookshelf next to the slide rule....

Dave :)
 
steamer said:
the slide rule....

There's something you don't see every day :eek: ............. I assume you have log tables and a few old text books to keep it company ;D



dammit, I've probably got a couple of the bloomin things somewhere in the loft ::) ::)

CC
 
In 1972 I was 12 years of age sitting at a desk in Jr High School Metal Shop.

A desk?
I didn't think metal shop involved desks!

As that month progressed I also leaned it involved some other goofey tools that
had NOTHING to do with metal working.
Things like slide rules, T-squares, protractors and perfect block letter and number
writing.

I had forgotten about all of that until this thread brought it back to memory.

The methods may have changed, but the prints and 3D renderings are more important
today then they were then.

Great story line here.

Rick
 
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