BAZMAK-Diary of a Myford super 7b lathe restoration

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I assumed the bed casting was the same but a foot longer therefore being less rigid. Are you saying that the long bed castings
were beefed up to lessen the risk of twist.It does feel much heavier.Can you clarify your comment please Nick.

Apologies for the delay, yes, the casting is deeper, with a Long Bed with it's feet on a flat surface you can't get your fingers under it
Almost finished ,just the tailstock to clean up and maybe fit the guard.Ready to make chips first job
is an adaptor plate to fit my Chinese range of chucks.Then I want to try screwcutting.Will hopefully make
some BSF studding as I found myself short of bolts when reasembling
Made chips and got the lathe dirty.I machined up a backplate to fit my range of Chinese chucks
Bit deja vu and a little boring but basically a repeat of the 3 no ML7s.Works well just on the little trolley
so I now need to lift in position on the bench and bolt down before running a check and adjust a few things
Last job is to finish off the tailstock,then maybe do some screwcutting to try out the gearbox
Must admit I am pleased and surprised how quick and easy it all went. Like the blue
I like the 7" tee slotted faceplate especially. I keep promising myself that I will add 4 plates to one of my very ordinary standard Myford ones. It's not my idea but one of Martin Cleeve's.

Question, please? Have you the two Myford steadies?

Best wishes

Make up a lead screw shield, mine has the inclined flat plate style to stop chips and dirt in the cutting area falling on the lead screw.

- Nick
Hi Norm,of all the myfords I have had into double figures I have never had steadies.Never really had the need for one
I think I once rigged up something just as a one off.
Nick I intend to to make a lead screw cover.I saw an interesting one using a thk rubber matt to cover the ways and the leadscrew
which fitted to the saddle and slid under the chuck as you approached.I looked at some 6mm thk rubber I have but its too stiff
will play about when I get it set on the bench.Not looking forward to it,lifting on my lonesome,i managed the ml7 but this is way heavier
Might have to ask a neirbor for help. Once its on the bench in my little shed its difficult to access around the back ,I want to ensure
everything is finished before I move it
Obviously, the workings of one with another will be different.
In the distant past, I made bits for my wife , now deceased regarding her musical hobbies i.e, clarinets, saxophones. oboes, flutes etc and these, should a repair be required, will not go into the narrow bore of a Myford.
Again, Northumbrian small pipes( I mean bagpipes, need steadies whilst boring something like 1/8th bore and amost 19 inches in length. On this sort of thing, i had to make and inline boring bar to bore a 1inch dead and another hole 1.003" over about 20 inches- parallel bores on my Quorn-- and screwcut a truncated threaded micrometer end on one 1" PGMS bar.

So thinking 'steadies' is quite normal for me.
I agree with Goldstar. A Steady Rest is essential even though it isn't used often. If you find a fixed steady rest for the Myford S7 , I would grab it.
I only said that of all the Myfords I have bought I have never got the steadies with any of them
If I would have had the chance I would have been pleased to have them. With model engineering
I have never had the need and as you say they get very little use but are essential when you need them
Well I managed to manhandle the lathe into my small shed.Not positioned or bolted down yet
Have started a few minor mods/tweeks etc but nothing interesting.I have just made a way/leadscrew cover
fron 3mm rubber the idea which I saw somewhere.Will see how it goes when I start making chips
Just finishing the tailstock and when that's in posn I can bolt down the lathe with the bed hard to the wall
so I can have max room at the headstock end.Would have preferred a std bed but I cant see any need to remove the tailstock
as there is plenty of room to store it at end of the long bed
My Super 7 has the Myford style chucks without adapter plate so that it can run in the space before the ways begin. Your rubber folding sheet would interfere especially with the 4 jaw and a big work piece. The extended jaws would make a mess of your rubber. I have no additional protection for the lead screw and no issues so far however my machine does have a small cover plate attached to the cross slide that covers the lead screw in the area where the cutter is working and throwing chips. It seems to work well enough and I clean the screw threads with a paint brush after each use.

For a test open the jaws fully and see if the rubber survives.
Hi Barry, Guys,

I'm claiming the rights for the use of a flexible silicon rubber sheet for way and lead screw protection.
Don't forget to squirt some oil underneath.

I've been using this technique for several years now, and whist I agree that there are occasions when the chuck jaws rub against the rubber, upto the other day I haven't had any problems.

I use a couple of powerful magnets to secure the rubber under the chuck, and whilst cleaning with a paint brush managed to stick the paintbrush to the far side magnet pulling it and the rubber sheet off. Of course it tore right across the brass bar clamping it to the saddle. No real problem, its now an inch shorter :) At least till I can get another sheet. Normally I use a circular plastic brush for cleaning.
Thank you both for your comments. I acknowledge your rights to the idea Baron I knew I had seen it somewhere
and filed it away.I also see the future problems.I have used 3mm rubber floor matting and for most lathwork with say collets and 4" chucks
there should be no problem with it getting caught up in the chuck. Using it with care should enable me to establish an ideal length
and maybe overcome any problems. I can also make 2 or different lengths and make them quick change. Only time and use will tell
The rubber mat is sitting on the ways so I can smear with oil.Will keep posted
Hi Barry,

The material that I use is sold as a "Silicone baking sheet", note the spelling ! Mine comes in several colours and is only about a mm thick, roughly the same size as a foolscap sheet of paper. Its very soft and flexible too, the debris just brushes off and really hot stuff doesn't stick to it.

That smiley is supposed to have been after the full stop on the first line.

I found that if I didn't oil under the sheet it didn't slide forward with the saddle and rolled up in front of it, and then it did hit the chuck.

In any case that S7LB looks very nice ! Yes I do like the blue colour.
Given that we are discussing a long bed, it may not be practical to have full rubber (silicone) covering for the ways. I would consider a short piece of rubber that covers the area where swarf is generated which is where the tool post and cutter are working. A short piece of rubber may push any debris on the ways to the drop off under the chuck where it can be swept to the back and collected from the tray. My old SOUthend had wipers not he ways that were effective enough for the task.

I like the idea but folding over the rubber dam may not be necessary.

I'm not sure that you understand, my lathe is the same as Barry's just a later model.
A couple of pictures that might illustrate my bed cover:

The blue sheet under the chuck is my silicon sheet. Its held by the brass strip next to the saddle.

I agree not particularly easy to see in these pictures, but I can take some better ones tomorrow.
Mine is 3mm rubber sheet and robust enough to not be damaged by the chuck rubbing.It is hoped to cover the area around and under the chuck
where all the work/chips will be found.How much turning will be done 18" from the chuck (not much) Its trial and error.If need be I can
make the mat quick release and have say 3 at varying sizes.Only time will tell.
No need for more pictures. I watched Barry's video so I can see the rubber sheet in action. My only suggestion is that it doesn't need to be that long and fold over under the chuck. As long as it covers the area from the tool post to the spindle frame when working close to the chuck ( 6 inches) it will do most of the job. It then becomes independent of bed length and reduces any chance of interference with extended jaws.

Enough on this topic from me as you have a working prototype that I can copy. Thanks.

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