Another Jan Ridders Flame Eater

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Omnimill

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Another Flame Eater Build.

Not sure this is the best project for a first engine but I really like the look of the Jan Ridders Flame Eater and NickG's well documented build has tempted me to have a go. Not sure how much time I can give the project each week, so be patient, it could be a long build!

Materials. This has already changed as the Stainless steel disc in the picture has proved to be a real pain to turn so I've binned that in favour of something else, probably Brass or Mild Steel. More materials to order!

Materials.jpg


This is my 4" X 14" Lathe I'll be doing the turning on, it's an Axminster BV20.
I don't have a Mill yet as I had to sell my 00 when we moved house a few years back. I'm hoping to get a replacement machine soon so I hope it doesn't hold up the build too much!

Lathe.jpg


Vic.



 
Truing up the end of a lump of Cast Iron so I can get a good grip in the three jaw.

3.jpg


Cutting the fins with work supported by live centre in the tailstock. I wasn't confident I could cut the cooling fins without supporting the bar, even so, I still had some vibrations. My Parting tool blade was 3/32" (2.3mm) so I ground it down to 2mm at the end so that I could keep to the stated dimensions on Jan's plan. The angled bracket with the threaded rod just to the right of the work in the picture is a back stop I made (I also made a front stop) especially for the project. I set this to ensure all cuts were at 6mm deep. Not sure what type of Cast Iron this is but it turns very nicely!

4.jpg


Final drill (16mm dia) before boring.

5.jpg


Boring to size. The tool is too small really but it's the only one I had that fits in the work. I'll have to get rid of any toolmarks during the lapping process.

6.jpg


Parting off. I was concerned that my hard work would get ruined when the blade broke though, not least with the work possibly falling off the bench! Then I thought of supporting it with the tailstock. I planned to use a piece of wooden dowel but I couldn't find any, 15mm copper tube worked fine!

7.jpg


8.jpg


Cylinder turning complete. Milling/drilling etc on this part to follow. It looks very light and "Matt" in this picture as It's just come out of my Sand Blasting cabinet. I like this finish and use it a lot, also makes marking of next operations etc easier to see.

9.jpg



Vic
 
Well, you sure made a nice start of it, Vic. Thanks for the pics!
Will be watching your progress.

Dean
 
Turning out good Vic. I like the sandblasted finish. Almost casting like. Very cool

Where did you find such a nice wick? All I can find are the flat ones.

Kel
 
Kel,

I use glass fibre wick in my flame licker.

If you go to most DIY stores, they should sell the replacement glass fibre wicks for the spirit burners you use for effect lighting in your garden, you know the type, a glass jar stuck on the end of a bit of split bamboo. A hank of that will last you a couple of lifetimes.

Bogs
 
Thanks Guys. I will get some of that glass fiber wick. Sounds like a winner.

kel
 
Turning the Bronze bushes. It's not until you actually start making some of the parts that you realise how small some of them are!

10.jpg


Ok, lets try that again! The hole in the first bush was way off centre, not sure how that happened. It seemed ok as I entered the Centre drill, but with components this small it only needs to be out a little bit. This time I'm trying out a Spotting drill first and taking it nice and easy ...

11.jpg


Second time round the bushes look much better, trimmed to length and cleaned up. I was concerned that the three jaw may deform the bushes so I mounted the collet chuck on the Lathe for this operation.

12.jpg


Another shot of the clean up in the Collet chuck.

13.jpg


I'll be using my home made Tangential Tool holder for some cuts soon so here I'm setting the correct tool height with my recently made gauge.

14.jpg


Cutting the thread on the Pivot Stud. To increase the chance of the finished engine actually running, I decided early on to stick to the dimensioned plans wherever possible but some parts aren't too critical so I've decided not to put a M3 thread on this part but use M4 instead - I'm none too keen on threads below this size so don't often use them if I can get away with it! I've also put a wider flange on this part as it's been cut from 6mm Brass stock. Looking ahead, I've noticed some other parts that may well be "simplified" to cut down on turning!

15.jpg


Progress so far.

16.jpg


Vic.




 
Turning the crank from Stainless steel. No problems with this part so far except it took an age to turn as I couldn't take large cuts on my poor BV20! I suppose I could have made the crank in three parts rather than two but I think I prefer the two part approach. :-\

17.jpg


Parting off the crank. It took so long to make this part, I chickened out in the end and finished it off with a hacksaw!

18.jpg


Turning one of the two posts that support the cylinder. I decided on a more simple design for these parts.

19.jpg


I cut the chamfer with a HSS tool ground to 45º at first. This has worked well enough in the past, at least on alloy components. On this occasion though it left nasty chatter marks so I decided to rotate the top slide and use a standard tool.
The chamfering worked well but due to a miscalculation I don't have enough material to make another one at the moment! :-[

20.jpg


Vic.
 
Hi Vic,

Your build looks to be progressing very nicely. I like your sand blasted finish too, not something I have ever tried, when you get a free moment can you tell me a little about your set up to do it please.

Many thanks,
Nick
 
Vic, I like your homemade height guage for the lathe.

Also I love your shop, brick walls, open spaces, an anvil, not to mention plenty of light and a great view. Much better than my "Dungeon of Danger"

since you are currently "sans mill" are you going to do the milling on the lathe?

great pics.

Kel
 
Thanks for the comments Kel, the Garage is not quite as bright as it appears in the picture. This may be a better shot:

_IGP3309.jpg


I plan to improve the lighting with some new 5 or 6 foot twin fluorescents when I get time though. It's also not really "habitable" in winter - far too cold, or summer - too Hot!!! I'm not complaining though ... :-\ As far as the mill goes I've got the money saved, just can't make up my mind really what to get. I kinda like this one at the moment: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-RF31-Vertical-Mill-Drill-21299.htm

Vic.
 
Vic, I have a mil/drill similar to that one. I am very pleased with it. I am not sure about the UK, but in the states there is far more tooling for an R-8 spindle, and therefore less expensive for the same quality. I noticed that one has an M3 taper spindle. just a thought, everything els looks good though.

If I had to choose a new mill, I would go with the RF45 with a dovetail colum. also many features only found on larger mills.

here is a link to a couple available in the states. Ime sure there too.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-32-Gear-Head-Mill-Drill-with-Stand/G0484
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill-Tapping-Machine/G0519

Kel
 

Great looking parts and progress!

Thanks for the nice pics.

Nice shop too, love the bench's/machine stands.

 
Hi Vic,

Thanks for posting the sand blaster info. A nice tidy shop you have. I like the look of your benches, I might just have to make myself one of those too.

Nick
 
Glad to be of help Nick, if you need any more info let me know.

Vic.
 
Not had much time to take pictures, just this one of the start of piston/valve turning from another piece of cast iron.

21.jpg


Another slight change from the plans. This is the crank pin with bearing and thumbscrew fitted, turned from 6mm hex stainless rod. External thread (into crank) is M4 and internal thread for thumbscrew is M3. I prefer straight knurling so until the fine straight knurls I've ordered arrive I just used a single fine diamond knurl and must say I'm quite pleased with the result. I've also opted for a slightly different bearing size 7 X 4 X 2.5mm. I do have a couple of the specified 3 X 8 X 3 bearings but want to try the smaller one as it leaves more metal on the big end of the con rod.

22.jpg


Lack of machining pictures again so this is just another "progress so far" shot! I had several attempts at the Valve push rod, not sure which one I prefer. What do you think? The con rod has been rough shaped on my belt sander until I can finish it on a Mill.

23.jpg


Vic.
 

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