Air compressor engine

[stevehuckss396]

Here I go again!

This thing started out life as a Champion V-twin air compressor. The compressor has a 2.625 bore and a 2.000 stroke. The math comes out to 21 and a half cubic inch or 354 cc's. I am hoping when done it will run on gasoline. I have never seen one but I hear they are out there.

I plan to build new heads to get down to about 6:1 compression. It will have a pushrod and rocker valve train. The valves will be just over an inch in diameter. The cam will have .210 lift and be driven with a 3/8 inch timing belt. Because I will be keeping the cast flywheel i will need to keep the RPM's way down. The intake and exhaust manifolds will be made out of 3/4 inch copper plumbing pipe with machined flanges for bolting to the engine and carb. The carb I plan to use will be for a small motor cycle. The ignition will be fired with a hall sensor with some circuitry to fire a duel coil for a snowmobile. The ignition will work like a waist fire. The timing will be Pop - 270 degrees - pop - 450 degrees - pop. Cooling will be the fins in the cylinders and in the new heads and the flywheel has a built in fan.

Because my CNC mill is so small I have a club member making 2 brackets for me. They are 13 inches tall and 6 inches wide. They will be the supports for the cam tunnel, fuel tank and ignition coil. This is by far the bigest build I have ever tried.

I worked on the camshaft tunnel today. It is made from a 5 inch piece of 2 X 2 aluminom. It will house the cam bearings as well as the lifter bushings and lifters.

 

[Gordo]

Steamer,
Looks like a interesting build, I have not seen any in the past so this will be the first one.
Keep us posted.
gordo

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Here I go again!

This thing started out life as a Champion V-twin air compressor. The compressor has a 2.625 bore and a 2.000 stroke. The math comes out to 21 and a half cubic inch or 354 cc's. I am hoping when done it will run on gasoline. I have never seen one but I hear they are out there.

I plan to build new heads to get down to about 6:1 compression. It will have a pushrod and rocker valve train. The valves will be just over an inch in diameter. The cam will have .210 lift and be driven with a 3/8 inch timing belt. Because I will be keeping the cast flywheel i will need to keep the RPM's way down. The intake and exhaust manifolds will be made out of 3/4 inch copper plumbing pipe with machined flanges for bolting to the engine and carb. The carb I plan to use will be for a small motor cycle. The ignition will be fired with a hall sensor with some circuitry to fire a duel coil for a snowmobile. The ignition will work like a waist fire. The timing will be Pop - 270 degrees - pop - 450 degrees - pop. Cooling will be the fins in the cylinders and in the new heads and the flywheel has a built in fan.

Because my CNC mill is so small I have a club member making 2 brackets for me. They are 13 inches tall and 6 inches wide. They will be the supports for the cam tunnel, fuel tank and ignition coil. This is by far the bigest build I have ever tried.

I worked on the camshaft tunnel today. It is made from a 5 inch piece of 2 X 2 aluminom. It will house the cam bearings as well as the lifter bushings and lifters.

Hi Steve.
nice work as usual he is a link you will love
http://www.cncengines.com/ic.html
http://www.cncengines.com/snowengine.html
Ive use their product before and they are 100% foul proof.
MY 2 CENTS, I think it's deadly dangerous to keep the cast flywheel, a pump this size usualy turn 300 t0 400 max way less then your idle speed. If the crank brakes at 2000 RPM that flywheel will end out in my backyard LOL

cheers

 

[stevehuckss396]

I have talked to Roy twice about this project and we decided his stuff was not for this project. I do agree with you on the ignitions from him. I have them on 2 of my engines and they work flawless.

 

[longeron]

I also wanted to make the motor of the compressor, but found only a small compressor of the refrigerator.
It is made without tools, but you can see that it works
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3OvB59bY8&feature=share&list=UUsk4uIzuwEg7kGK3q4kqAlg[/ame]
It's very interesting what the outcome Projects. Good luck to the author!
I apologize for my English, translated in Google.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

I have talked to Roy twice about this project and we decided his stuff was not for this project. I do agree with you on the ignitions from him. I have them on 2 of my engines and they work flawless.

Hi Steve you might prefer these guys
http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_cms=20&controller=cms
I had some of their product running on 2stroke Kart at 13krpm not a miss

cheers

 

[stevehuckss396]

Hi Steve you might prefer these guys
http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_cms=20&controller=cms
I had some of their product running on 2stroke Kart at 13krpm not a miss

cheers

I got the ignition all worked out. should come in under 40 bucks complete when done. I bought a surplus duel coil for 24 bucks and I have the rest in the garage. I also needed some blank circuit board to build the circuit.

Going cheap on this one. I think I can build this whole mess for under 300 bucks.

 

[stevehuckss396]

I had the block of aluminum sitting on the vise for a picture and the battery died in the camera before I could get the first picture. The heads are 4.750 square and 1.750 thick. They were cut from a couple of 5.500 square by 2.000 thick blocks. It seemed like I was hacking away all day. You can't tell from the pics but the combustion chamber is also machined into the bottom. Hopefully more tomorrow!

 

[stevehuckss396]

I got the top of the heads done today. milled down, holes are drilled, and the head bolts are counterbored.

The four holes are to hold the plate that the rocker tower will bolt to. I didn't want to drill the head directly in
the event the rocker ratio heeds to be changed. I can then make a new plate to adjust the rocker tower to
the new position.

 

[stevehuckss396]

One more step closer to having a set of heads. The valves have been cleared. Tomorrow we start on the fins.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Yesterday I cut the fins. They are no where near perfect but they come out pretty good. I also drilled and tapped the bolt pattern that will secure the intake and exhaust manifolds. The ports into the valve chamber wont be cut until the valve seats are installed. All I need to do is drill, tap, and counterbore the sparkplug hole and I will be as far on the heads as I can go for now.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Nice work did you do these on a rotary table???

 

[stevehuckss396]

Nice work did you do these on a rotary table???

Nope! I have a small CNC mill that I built. It's not much to look at but it works well. If I had No CNC I would have done it that way. The top and bottom were CNCed. The valve chambers and all the rest were done by hand.




Here is the thread.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f38/home-brew-cnc-mill-5834/

 

[gus]

You are my hero.From air compressor to engine.Will keep track of your progress.

 

[stevehuckss396]

You are my hero.From air compressor to engine.Will keep track of your progress.

Hero! Crack me up. I wouldn't go that far.


The sparkplugs are installed. The hole was drilled at 20 degrees. Then I counterbored with the boring head and ran the tap thru. I think I hit a good height. Not too deep!! What's next, I don't know.

 

[chrispare]

what your using store bought spark plugs!

Im sure you can make your own plugs cant you? on that note have you done a thread on how you made your plugs for the deamon?

Chris

 

[stevehuckss396]

what your using store bought spark plugs!

Im sure you can make your own plugs cant you? on that note have you done a thread on how you made your plugs for the deamon?

Chris

I thought it was covered in the Demon thread.

1 - Solder the electrode to the cap
2 - Super glue the electrode into the insulator.
3 - finish grind the electrode to length
4 - Bend the ground strap on the base
5 - use red loc-tite on the insulator and use the press in the plans to crimp the base over the insulator.

 

[t.l.a.r. eng]

Interesting engine. I would definately leave the sand cast iron flywheel as a door stop. I've managed to blow up several flywheels in my time and they were alot sturdier than an air compressor flywheel.

That compressor probably started life just 20 miles north of where I live if it is a Champion.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Interesting engine. I would definately leave the sand cast iron flywheel as a door stop. I've managed to blow up several flywheels in my time and they were alot sturdier than an air compressor flywheel.

That compressor probably started life just 20 miles north of where I live if it is a Champion.

Yes it is a champion. It is about 30 years old and if not for a hole in the tank, it would still be in service.

You must have been spinning the heck out of the wheel to get it to go boom.

 

[gus]

I thought it was covered in the Demon thread.

1 - Solder the electrode to the cap
2 - Super glue the electrode into the insulator.
3 - finish grind the electrode to length
4 - Bend the ground strap on the base
5 - use red loc-tite on the insulator and use the press in the plans to crimp the base over the insulator.

Hi Guru Steve,
You are my hero.Making your own spark plugs. Will mark this post for future use.
During WW-ll ,petrol was not available to the public, but cars were still running but with methane gas generated by a wood fired methane generator heating up waste wood.
My neighbour made his own welding rods using some hocus-pocus flux coating. My school principal recycled old files into new files. Our very first prime minister made Cow-hide glue for a living during the war.All these folks plus Steve are my heros.