Acrylic?

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rodbuilder

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Has anyone worked with Acrylic before. My wife just gave me a 1" DIA x 2' Acrylic rod. I know you have to be carful beccause it will melt when turning as a wood worker but what about machining, different tools and speeds. What is the best way to polish it back to being clear?
 
rodbuilder said:
Has anyone worked with Acrylic before. My wife just gave me a 1" DIA x 2' Acrylic rod. I know you have to be carful beccause it will melt when turning as a wood worker but what about machining, different tools and speeds. What is the best way to polish it back to being clear?

A few weeks ago I made some acrylic parts. Turn it at a medium speed (800-1000 rpm maybe). Carbide works well. HSS is even better. Polish it in the lathe with sand paper down to 1000 or even 1200 grit with a very light touch. After sanding, just lightly rub it with the cleanest, softest cotton rag you have and it will be clear enough to see thru.

If you want it crystal clear you can wave a torch on it to clear it up but it will change shape and size. Do not point the torch directly at the part! Wave it back and fourth like you are spray painting it. Wouldn't recommend it for a piece that size is important unless there is a wide tolerance.

When i was parting off the parts the last 1/4 inch or so did go liquid on me. If you part off something, cut it off with enough material so you can turn it around and face the part after it cools. That was on a 1-3/8 inch rod.

I made this distributor cap and rotor. They are not crystal clear but i can see the rotor perfectly and the cap fits very well. If I heat it the bottom of the cap will most likely grow and not fit at all on the base. In this case, fit is more important.


DSCN1625s.JPG


DSCN1629s.JPG
 
Hah ACRYLIC, this is a wonderfull thing to play with in the lathe, SHARP toolsteel is the way to go to cut this stuff. You can play with it at ANY speed you want to try, the only thing you have to watch out for is, if you just so happen to allow the tooltip to dwell a bit longer than normal, it will heat up and then start to melt it, instead of cutting it.
The trick to learn, is to watch the swarf coming of the tool, so long as it's coming of cleanly and flying away from the tool-tip, no worries, keep cutting. The moment that the swarf slows down, in other words it's not flying out thru the air, then just get your tool out of the way, no melting it then.
A little bit of practice will soon show you what the swarf flying of the tip should look like. I've cut this stuff thousands of time on a Unimat 3 - FLAT OUT, that's 4000 RPM, no melting it at all, just a bloody great big mess of acrylic swarf all over the place, by the way, this stuff is full of static electricity and it seems to want to stick to anything and everything that it can. Shitty stuff to clean up, but that's about it's worst fault.
It does not like being cut at too slow a speed, as it is brittle, you gotta keep the revs up, along with the feed rate up as well.
This stuff can be turned into glass real easy, just turn to whatever shape you want, then get some wet and dry, start at about 600 grit and rub the bit watching for heat build-up in the wet & dry, the moment you can feel the heat in your finger tips, quit and allow to cool. You can use the wet & dry either wet or dry, the dry clogs up real quick and the heat build up fast as well, or use a drop or two of water on it, you'll soon notice when it's starting to get hot, think of finger tips in boiling water about now.
The revs here are dropped down to 1500 RPM for the polishing, as to many revs equals too much heat, follow me drift, go down to 1200 grit, then 1800 grit, about now it's looking a bit cloudy clear.

For the absolute best, go get some of this stuff.
http://www.winterbrookfarmantiques.com/product_info.php?products_id=1102?
You can buy it anywhere, use a soft cotton bit of cloth, apply a small bit to the rag and start to polish it, watch for the heat build-up again, keep moving it around, don't dwell on the one spot too long and pretty soon you got a bit of glass looking at you.
I've used this stuff for making bits for models for about 20 yrs, DO NOT BUY IT, it will break the bank instantly, go find a sign-maker or someplace that uses this stuff, now you all heard of DUMPSTER DIVING, good for the fitness fanatics as well as your back pocket, plenty of it and it's freely available.

regards greenie
 
Can you buy some kind of liquid acrylic that can be poured into a mold? The kind of stuff that some trophies are made from?
 
I agree with what's posted above. I use water-soluble coolant when I drill and ream, keep the chips cleared out, heat is the enemy! One fellow told me he used WD-40 as a cutting lube, I haven't tried that.
I also tried smoothing the parts on an electric disk sander, mistake! too much heat, I got the face polished afterwards, but then I could see the heat checks (cracks) about .100" deep in the material.
I got myself some Meguiar's Plast-X polish. That works really good, even after 1500 grit it's big difference.

DB
 
I caught this trick on How It's Made(the TV show).

I'm assuming that the plastic you are talking about is the same plastic that most screwdriver handles are made from as well.

A dip in "acetone" will start to dissolve the surface. The result, when it is dried quickly and not touched or allowed to gather dust, was a perfect mirror polished finish and not a single drop of elbow grease being used to achieve it.

Just a simple test with the plastic you are using and you'll know if this will work for you!


Kermit
 
SmoggyTurnip said:
Can you buy some kind of liquid acrylic that can be poured into a mold? The kind of stuff that some trophies are made from?

That is not acrylic. It's clear polyester resin, the same stuff as used in fibreglass but transparent.

Helder
 
Kermit,

You can use that little bit of information to your advantage, if you need to glue pieces of acrylic together, wet the surface with acetone and clamp parts together. You have to work quickly, and make sure the entire surface is wet; but it will make an invisible joint. I haven't tried this on polycarbonate (Lexan, Makrolon); but I think it works just as well. (Plexiglass is acrylic)

A shop I worked in used to make rather large plates from Plexiglass, and they needed to have a transparent edge. Milling made the machined edge cloudy so, to eliminate the polishing step, we used Dawn dishwashing liquid for cutting oil. It seemed to work very well if you took your time, and a quick rinse in the sink cleaned it up.

Kevin
 
Looks like plenty of good advice as usual.
I have machines acrylic in the home shop and pro model shop.
Here is what works for me.
Sharp tools do not let the tool heat up.
machines easily but stringy chips.
As far as polish I do silicon carbide paper on the lathe keep it wet
320,400, 600 then No 7 brand white polishing compound and finish with mothers plastic polish. Join with IPS weld-on
liquid dish soap for tapping liquid.
Keep the chip away from cats you love they seem to like to eat the stuff
Tin
 
Nice stuff to work with& I agree with most of the above re. keeping it cool, it'll weld itself to the tool if it gets more than warm. This is a lens for a bike routeholder. 1.125" 'Perspex' (Poly(methyl methacrylate)), offset in 4-jaw. Polish with wet & dry then chrome cleaner (not finished yet !)
magnify.jpg

When I was working we used to make small display cases with acrylics, flame polished the edges & glued together with chloroform (trichloromethane) but I guess the HSE nasties ::) have put a stop to that method.
Mark
 

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