A small boiler

[ksouers]

correct me if i'm wronge but i think if you were to get oil in the boiler it would cause the water to foam ???

chuck

Chuck,
The oil will coat the inside of the boiler preventing the water from conducting the heat away causing a hot spot that could fail. The water in a boiler is actually cooling the shell by absorbing the heat. It only takes a thin film of oil.

We used several methods of removing oil from the water on the tanker I sailed on. Lube oil from the turbines would seep into the steam and had to be removed before heading back to the boilers.

 

[SandyC]

Hi Guys,

As has already been stated, oil in a boiler is not good news.

I have uploaded 2 documents to the GENERAL area, they were to big for the normal post buffer.

1 is a drawing of typical test rig set-up.

the other is a description of the test rig and the test method required.

Hope these help clear up any confusion.

Best regards.

Sandy. ;D ;D

 

[Bogstandard]

Sandy,

Great reference article. Up to your normal and very informative standards.

John

 

[firebird]

Hi

Julian rang me at work today (he's on shifts so was off this morning) and said don't bother bringing the hydrolastic kit home until youv'e read your posts. Well Iv'e just read all the posts. Thankyou all for the input. I said earlier what a great forum this is. Ask and you get the answers. I'm going over now to find Sandy's post, see you later.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

Just downloaded the boiler test rig from Sandy and printed out a couple of copies. Many thanks Sandy, first class as usual. I'll have a go at building one. Has anybody got drawings for a one way valve and a drain valve. That would be a big help.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Bogstandard]

Rich, if no-one else kicks in, I will go thru some of my workshop papers tomorrow, I am sure I have exactly what you need.

John

 

[firebird]

Hi

Managed to sneak a couple of hours out in the shop tonight where I could study the test rig plan from sandy in more detail. It all makes good sense so I'll have a go at building one. It will almost certainly be used again in the future so a good bit of kit to have. Iv'e been through the scrap box and the that'll come in handy one day box and have found most of what I'll need. A bit of research on the pumps shows a clack valve in the pump body. I can see how that works so I'm ok there but if you have any info on one way valves and drain valves John that would be great. Ralph, I hadn't put any seals on the bungs yet just screwed them in to test the fit. I was going to use copper washers, will rubber O rings work ok? To all those that have commented on the quality of Rover cars I was just being polite in case any of you have bought one, Nuf said.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Divided He ad]

I'm as green as a green thing about this boiler stuff Rich.... The 'O' ring thing was just a guess! I figured you need to seal it... Copper washers should work, they do on many other applications. Might have to anneal them if loosened though?

I think I'll shut up soon.... once I get the heel in my mouth too! ;D



I haven't read the downloads yet, but will have to to keep up!

Keep us posted,



Ralph.

 

[firebird]

Hi

Looking into clack valves Iv'e had reference to Use O ring clacks rather than ball clacks. Anyone got drawings or a rough sketch.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Bogstandard]

Sorry Rich,

I have searched high and low for my articles on boiler fittings, but can't find them, but I do have a few pics that might get you on your way.

Here is one for an o-ring clack.

John

 

[BobWarfield]

Try this eBay auction: 110270362139

Looks like a very simple mechanism similar in principle to Bog's drawing.

I like this term "clack valve" as opposed to "check valve". Is it a Brit term?

Best,

BW

 

[Bogstandard]

Bob,

It is I think an English engineering word, and refers to the sound they make when in operation.

John

 

[Bogstandard]

Rich,

These three should see you with almost everything you require.


John

 

[Bogstandard]

And here is the one that wouldn't fit on the last post.

The stop valve can be used for a drain valve as well.

If you need plans for an inline displacement lubricator, let me know, but I think I have done one on here before, but as usual can't remember where.


John

 

[firebird]

Hi John

Excellent, I'm printing that lot out now.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Bogstandard]

Rich,

If you can't get the o-rings, graphited packing string will work just as well. In fact I prefer to use it, it tends to give a better seal, as it works over a larger area of the shaft.

John

 

[firebird]

Hi

Just to go back a bit to a question I asked on page 1 about distilled water I have tried all over the place to buy some but every where just sells the de- ionised stuff. Heres what s
Sandy had to say.

As for boiler water...NO DO NOT use de-ionised water, especially that sold for batteries (some of these can contain small amounts of sulphuric acid).
Even if it does not contain acid, being de-ionised (by ion exchange resin methods) it will attempt to recover lost ions by extracting the required ones form any bronze and or copper in the boiler (which is most of it) and also from the silver solder.(Which can damage/degrade the solder)

The same can apply to water from a domestic filter/softener, since these often contain ion exchange resins either before or after a carbon element. (BRITA etc).

The best water to use is pure distilled water (obtainable from your local chemist, but can be pricey), failing this you can use REVERSE OSMOSIS water (try your local tropical fish store, they often use for partial water changes in the show tanks (they generally produce it themselves)), next best is well filtered rain water or water recovered from a de-humidifier(domestic) and lastly....cooled, well boiled tap water.

Can I boil up some water then let it cool as suggested then store it in a container ready for future use?

Would making some kind of still be useful. ( for making water of course )

Cheers

Rich

 

[rangerssteamtoys]

Are you in the states? If so distilled water can be bought at a pharmacy (walgreens). Thats where I get all my distilled water. I also collect rain water, Wilesco steam engine instructions say to do this. It works.

 

[Bogstandard]

Rich,

A lot of people swear by using distilled water.

I personally, because I come from a moderately soft water area, just used normal tap water, done this for over 30 years and never had a boiler 'fur' up. Guess I am lucky. I have a kettle at home, over ten years old and not one bit of scale in it.

If you want to go down the distilled route, I have occasionally seen distilled water in supermarkets, for use in steam irons.

If I was you, get yourself a very clean gallon plastic bottle, and boil some water up, when cool pour it in the bottle. You will most probably find a gallon will last a couple of months.
If you start to see scale appearing in your sight glass, clean out the boiler with citric acid (same mix as for silver soldering pickle bath), and look for distilled water.

Always try the easy and cheapest route first.

John

 

[Cedge]

John
Would you be so kind as to share the pickle recipe in a dedicated thread? I've missed it along the way, assuming you've posted it before.

Steve