a rather unspectacular stirling engine...

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kutzdibutz

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Hi folks,

2nd project of mine is a stirling engine. One that I once built during an internship at university, where I was allowed for the simple parts. When it was coming to the crucial components the workshop master tapped me on the shoulder saying 'step aside lad, playtime is over, now its important'. And honestly- if he wouldnt have done so, I would have had no chance to finish this those days. (there was only a couple of days left for this)
So the piston, cylinder and fire tube the master did. And watching him do the stuff was very interesting. The flywheel, rods and the small stuff I did myself. But 100% self made is different... Anyways, I was proud like hell when I assembled it and it was running.

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That was the old days. Now having an own workshop I had to re-do this of course. I stayed with the basic design, however modified the plan slightly. The cooling ribs I choose to machine, the piston diameter I increased so it would fit the material I had and I would only need to cut the length (so I thought) and the flywheel design I changed also to the material available. The build proceeded and eventually I was done.

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BUT: that bloody thing didn't run! (of course)

During machining of the cylinder I carefully watched the progress. The tool was cutting the brass nicely but at the final diameter I checked with the piston. I was still a bit tight so I choose to just have another go without feeding but this was already too much! Too much play of piston and cylinder and naturally the sealing was more than poor... :wall:

So I didn't want to spend the effort of making a new piston and no new cylinder either. Instead I made some PTFE piston rings. So the sealing definitely improved, but now the friction was way to high. Next to that issue the mechanics had some blockage which I removed by taking off the 'intersecting' material. But still, a no runner... Even though I tried to loop it and thought it would run reasonably smooth the friction increased again when heating up, since PTFE as a higher expansion rate than the other material (brass and steel).

With this I had the stirling sitting for a while and did some long needed machine maintenance and modifications. Done that I came back to the stirling. (there was enough time in between to be motivated again do deal with it) After the unsuccessful attempt with the PTFE and several other fails trying to squeeze the piston to gain some diameter by deformation or trying to create some burr (silly me...) it became fairly obvious that its time for a new piston. So disassembly time...

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First try, settings of the newly installed DRO wrong by 1mm, and it ended up off dimension- and of course too thin... (Murphy, you bastard!! :rant: )

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2nd try, correct settings and there it is- left: the old bugger, right: the new guy.

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The looping in setup: ('misused' the mill a bit)

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and the final product

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So while having the Stirling disassembled it was time to think about an upgrade and performance improvement:

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Some fan cooling should do the job... But first it should run at all... (which it still didnt- neither with nor without the fan)
With the new piston it was smoothly turning, no blockages in the mechanics, reasonably good sealing, not too much friction, correct timing. In other words- no reasonable excuse not to run... And heating it up one could see it wanted to- but there was some sort of lack of energy...
Some head-scratching later I realised I increased the piston diameter and consequently also the displacement piston. BUT: Apparently I should also have payed attention to the V-O-L-U-M-E increase of the displacement piston. I didnt start the big mathematics but made the 'extension' fitting to the room available.

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Assemble, fire it up and bingo- we got ourselves a runner!

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However the self proclaimed performance upgrade consumes more than it delivers. So there is clearly room for improvement and plans are flying around in my head.
Another huge improvement potential is the overall design, which turned out way more bulky than acceptable at the end. Mental note: get rid of all the bent and soldered sheet metal and make something proper. But at the moment time is rare- so lets see when there will be an update on that one.

Cheers, Karsten
 
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Nice work Karsten! ;D

Now sound a lot of time reducing as much of the friction as you can
and try and get it to run on the least amount of heat possible.
That is always fun! :big:
With a bit of luck you may have it running of a tea light!

Andrew
 
Congratulations on a runner.

Is that displacer chamber made of brass? If so, it will be wicking a lot of the heat away quickly - not what you want. If you do another rebuild try making the chamber of steel, which doesn't conduct as well.
 
Nice write up, good pictures, very entertaining. Just what we like to see around here. ;)
 
I see nothing unspectacular about it.

Nice Build! Thm:

Rick
 
A great looking build. The machining looks excellent. I especially appreciate the flywheel.
 
Any running stirling is spectacular. Nice job Thm:
 
Well done and congratulations. They grow like Topsy when you try to improve them but you learn a lot on the way.
Thanks for sharing the journey and the photos.
Jim
 
Thanks guys for the nice words. Some more mental notes taken...
(Your comments clearly motivate moving forward)

Cheers, Karsten
 
That sure is one solid flywheel. No wobble that I can tell from the video; or is that just the angle? :big:
Looks like it's got some real power in it!

Ian
 
Hi folks,

just a very quick update- some pics of the recent design work. This is how I intend the crank drive to look like:


upgrade1.png


Currently I'm really short on workshop-time but I look forward to flying metal chips- eventually... (hopefully soon)

For the main body I also have sketches ready but no 3D nor proper drawings yet. Showing real metal will anyway be more neat...


Ian: the trick was to drill the center bore last, so the wobble is on the hub and not so well visible. ;)

So long-

Cheers, Karsten
 
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Hi folks,

still only virtual updates since the workshop is hardly operable at the moment and time is just absorbed by higher priority tasks... But some CAD is still possible every now and then. So this is what I have in mind for the stirling to look like:

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I intend to use ball bearings but I didnt bother to model them- so it will not include a levitating shaft. :D

Cheers, Karsten
 
Hi Karsten, it was your thread that got me interested in the Stirling engine and the problems you had in getting it to run. I had to resort to Wikipedia to understand the priciple of operation. It appears that reducing the friction of moving parts goes towards getting the model to run. Your first two models have smaller (lower mass) connecting rods and the journals are a similar size to the crankshaft. However, your CAD design appears to have a beefier connecting rod and both journals appear bigger than the crankshaft, which would increase the force required to turn the engine. Am I wrong in my analysis and that you purposely made these bigger than your original for engineering reasons that I haven't realised?

Thanks for posting, I am following with interest.

Brian
 
Hi Brian,
now you mention the mass of the connecting rods I start to wonder if my re-design is really such a good idea. But maybe I get away with it since I intend to use aluminum for the rods now, the bent sheet metal was steel. However there will be a slight increase of the mass. (which I try to compensate with the balancing weights on the crankshaft as good as it is possible- the initial design had none and the engine is shaking quite a bit when running, so I hope to improve that...)
Your observation of the increased size of journals is well spotted, and the conclusion you draw I can go along with. What is difficult to see in the CAD pictures is the ball bearings I will use for the connecting rods. So I had to increase the diameter to fit them. ;)
Thanks for your interest and following along.
Cheers, Karsten
 
Hi folks,

finally I can declare my new workshop as back in operation after the move. Got my tool-wall newly installed, so this will hopefully help me not messing the place up so quickly...
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And there is also some progress to report! woohoo1
It was quite an effort and took some chest-hair to cut the piece of aluminum out of the bigger plate I fished out of a scrap bin once. (dont have a band saw or anything machine for the more rough cuts- so hand-saw...) On top thats really soft aluminum, so not really pleasant to machine as well. But thats the stuff I have, so I will live with that. First off cleaning the edges to have a proper reference for line marking:
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Now I really see why some of you guys use this fancy looking paint... I need to get some... ;D

All marked up on the mill and finding '0', followed by the first holes:
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Then step by step carving out the geometry...
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That worked ok so far, the two parts of the main body are joined by an M4 bolt and using 4mm positioning pins.
Here's the rear side of the pilot hole for the main bearings. I started with 4mm, increased to 10mm- but that's how nice this material machines... (quite an excessive burr on the rear side) ;)
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I left it with the cut out for the flywheel started:
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Actually I'm quite happy with the progress- lets see when I get to it next time..

So long,
Karsten
 
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Hi folks,

made it to get some more machining done...
The cutout for the flywheel I did by perforation drill and then mill. I cleared the surface then with the end mill.

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Next up there was rounding the two edges. I couldnt think of an easy way of aligning the parts on the rotary table so I followed a hint of a friend and used some washers for guidance and a file. Job done in 5min vs. two days of headscratching... :cool:

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Next up was the bearing section and machining of the outer radii. Again I had no idea how to properly put this on the rotary table so I made myself a small jig. The pilot hole for the bearing fits right on the pin and is secured by the washer and screw on top. So it can be turned by hand- feeding like the hedgehogs (how does a hedgehog have sex? - VERY careful!! ;D ) and only cutting against the mill rotation worked quite ok.

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Last step wil be widening the bearing holes to a snug fit with the bearings before this part can be ticked off as done. Hopefully I dont mess that up...

Cheers, Karsten
 
So the first parts became reality! Last bit missing was the bearing holes. First I needed to 'find' the center of the hole after properly clamping the piece. I mounted both parts of the main body in order to drill the holes in one go. To find the center I used the dial indicator mounted in the mills spindle and adjusting x and y until there was no change in the reading rotating the spindle.

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Once I found the center I locked the x and y axis and started boring the bearing holes:
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Again feeding only tiny bits for two reasons- 1) not to over-shoot and 2) to get a nice surface. So the holes came out quite nice. One is acceptig the bearing willingly- maybe a tiny-whiny bit loose, but nothing loctite cant fix. The other hole turned out a bit tight, I should have gone through with the same feed once more... But gently pressing it in when I'm done with all the surface finish will do I guess...

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So I declare the first two parts as done. (the surface finish I will do for all parts in one go- I thought of sanding the parts to give them the 'as cast' look)
I'm sure there would be better ways of machining them- so feel free to leave some remarks. ;)

Cheers, Karsten
 
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