1/4 Scale Rider-Ericsson Pumping Engine

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idahoan

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She's looking good Bill;

With regards to heat requirement; are you planning on making a steel hot end with a copper cap? I'm not sure what your prints call out but when my buddy built his Denney Improved engine the plans called out an all copper hot end (bad idea). It transferred so much heat into the cold end that it wouldn't run well. It was hard to keep the water cool and a huge flame was required just to keep it running.

When he built his Rider Ericsson last winter he made a steel hot end with a thin copper hot cap; man what a difference that made. He also turned a waist near the top (ala Jerry Howell) to help stop the heat migration from the hot end to the cold end.

After the Rider was finished he went back and made a new hot end for the Denney and now it runs just as well or maybe better than the Rider.

Some food for thought; one other item is that he has trouble with, is the pump check ball sticking when it dries out. Last weekend at the show we had to remove the nut and plunger to get it freed up with a long skinny screwdriver. Maybe it is our fine Boise Idaho water; not sure but I would bet a Teflon ball wouldn't stick.

Looking forward to the video of it running.

Dave
 

b.lindsey

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Hi Dave and thanks for the info. The plans call for a steel hot end (pipe supploed in the casting kit) with a stainless end plug (not supplied). It also calls for a S.S. check ball which I have, but if any troubles are encountered then your idea of a teflon ball is a good one. I got aome more work done on the pump this weekend and will try to post some pictures later today.

Bill
 

b.lindsey

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Work, seminars, etc. have thwarted much progress so far this week but have gotten a bit done on the business end of the pump rod assembly followed by assembly and a considerable amount of fiddling to get it as free acting as I want. Everything was fine until i screwed the small packing nut into the top cap which caused some binding. In the end I opened up the hold in the packing nut from .156" to .159" to give it some more wiggle room. Since the water inside the pump doesn't come up to that level normally, leakage shouldn't be a problem, and even so the packing should seal around the shaft to prevent it. It works easily by hand now and immersion in a small pail of water while actuating it by hand shows that it is pumping water quite nicely. Now on to the bolsters for the plumbing attachments, the side pieces which encase the round portion of the pump body, and the priming cup assembly. If only I could turn down the heat in the shop...supposed to be 101-102 degrees F over the weekend!!



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b.lindsey

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Despite the heat, i did get a good morning in the shop yesterday and got the mounting ring for the hot cap made (photos 1 & 2), then got it silver soldered onto the hot cap tubing and made the gasket for it. Its a bit smaller than called for in the print but done purposely so that it will fit within the upper perimeter of the firebox without having to modify it. Also made and installed the clevis for the pump (photo 3). Once I get the hot cap lower end made and solderd in, i may give it a try and see what problem areas there are. Just the sheer weight of this engine and the various up and down components create a lot of inertia, even though things seem to turn freely. Time will tell.



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idahoan

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Bill, it just keeps getting better with each update. Thm:

Dave
 

b.lindsey

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Thanks Dave, its getting close now I think...half expectred to look out in the shop this afternoon and see it running on the ambient heat :)

Bill
 

lazylathe

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Hi Bill,

Great set of updates that i seem to have missed!!!
Any news??? ;D

Andrew
 

b.lindsey

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Andrew, I have been at the beach all this week getting in some great time with, oarents, kids, and grandkids and just relaxing. After getting the hot cap done before leaving I did some temporary plumbing and gave it a try with results best described as "close but no cigar...yet!" I brought the thing to the beach with me just to fiddle with some and yesterday my dad and I got it to run at first with the pump detached, and then later with the pump as well. Mainly I think it just needs some running in to loosen things up a bit. After I get back home tomorrow, I will work on finalizing the plumbing over the weekend and some final adjustments. I do still have to make the two water hammer thingys but it will run for now without those. Stay tuned as there will be more updates over the weekend.

Bill
 

lazylathe

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woohoo1 th_wav woohoo1

Awesome stuff Bill!!
Hope you had agreat time with the family and kids!
I am also off this week but have been busy taking my car back and forth to the dealer and am not too happy...

Looking forward to the next update!

Andrew
 

b.lindsey

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Earlier this week I ordered the remaining parts i needed for the propane burner...the flow valve and ceramic for the top of the burner. The few pictures below show the whole assembly, the top of the burner with the ceramic and the burner while being lit. All in all i am peased with it and found the ceramic material far easier to cut and finish than I had expected.

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idahoan

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Hi Bill,

Nice looking burner! I would be interested in more details on its construction; what did use for a jet, and how did you calculate the air hole size, is there a venturi in there somewhere?
Also where did you purchase the parts? That is a nice looking valve; is it also a regulator, if so what pressure does it run at.

Sorry for all the questions but you got my curiosity up.

Dave
 

b.lindsey

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Hi Dave,
The burner itself was made from SandyC's plans which are/were in the downloads section, modified only to use US instead of BA threads. The orifice I ordered from McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#orifices/=iiore8. Part # 2943T888. Mine has a 10-32 outer thread and a .010" orifice which is what most seem to use with propane for this size burner...again as per Sandy's plans. The regulator I ordered from these people who I have used before...http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/114-473-01.html and the same for the ceramic board...http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/424-351.html. No idea what pressure it runs at but it is of the type used for disposable fuel cylinders as the link shows.
 
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vcutajar

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Bill

Just out of curiosity, how did you cut the ceramic?

Vince
 

b.lindsey

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Vince, I drew a circle on it slightly larger than the opening in the burner and it cut quite easily with a vertical band saw. Once it was roughed out I finish sanded the perimeter on a vertical belt sander until it just slipped in. The material is hard but not like you would think of ceramic tile being hard.

Bill
 
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idahoan

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Thanks Bill

Looks like I may need to place an order:).

Dave
 

Don1966

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Bill, sorry I just finished reading up on your thread. Wish I would have caught it when you started, but I really enjoyed the built. You have done some Fascinating work on the Ericsson engine. I will be following till it is complete even thought I am late. :bow:

Don
 

b.lindsey

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Thanks Don, Mechanically the engine itself runs well...still sorting out a few minor issues with the pump however as it is dragging downt he engine too much even though it pumps quite well. Nothing major, just some tweaking should do it and am working on that this week as time and this nasty heat permit. I hoep to have a preliminary video of it shortly, the the tear down, painting, and finish up work can commence :)

Bill
 

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