1/4 Scale Rider-Ericsson Pumping Engine

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Got a start on the pump body today. Took a piece of 1.25" brass, cit it and milled to finished length and drilled and reamed the .376 bore, counterbored and threaded the top end and then had to make a quick and dirty drill extension to drill the .218" opening below the area where the ball valve will seat. This is shown in the three photos below.

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Omce the lathe work was done, the mill was used to reduce the 1.25" round to the .75" square called for in the plans. I'll get more done tomorrow hopefully.


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Last night I got a little done on the pump body which was roughed out in the previous post. The various holes were drilled for intake, exit into the water jacket, and priming cup and then it was centered in the 4 jaw to turn the round section between the two square ends.There is still some work to do on it but I expect it to be finished up over the weekend along with some of the other smaller parts that complete the pump assembly.



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I'm just checking in to let you know that I am still enjoying this build. It is looking nice Bill :)
 
Yhanks for checking in Brian. Today I worked on attaching the firebox to the underside of the base with four 1/8" pieces of brass threaded 5=40 on both ends. Nothing unusual here except I had to disassemble everything to get the underside of the base located in the mil vise and it took an extension drill to get the length needed to reach the tabs on the firebox. This is shown in the first 3 pictures. The last picture shows a little adornment for the top of the stack I made from a scral piece of brass. Will return to the pump parts in the morning.



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It's all coming together now Bill!!! ;D

Not much longer and it will be merrily chugging away!!

Andrew
 
Its coming along nicely Bill; beautiful work.


Dave
 
Hi Bill, nice work its an engine I have wanted to build for many years . :bow: :bow:.Thought i had better check in insted of just lurking and drooling :big:
best wishes Frazer
 
Thanks Andrew, Dave, and Frazer. I did make some progress over the weekend. I had meant to work mainly on the pump and did get the mounting plate made and attached to the pump body along with making a gasket for it as well (photo 1). Then I got sidetracked in working on the brass part that connects the displacer yoke to the displacer rod. Its not quite finished but close. Photos 2 & 2 show the 1" dia. blank piece of brass beinf drilled and bored out to fit the yoke centerpiece. This hole is off center by .060". While i still had it lined up I scribed a line (photo 4) to drill and tap the hole for the displacer rod and the oil hole on what will be the top side of the bored hole' The scribed line ensured that all of these would be as much in line as possible, given the offset of the bored hole.



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After the holes were drilled (not shown), the piece was put in the 4 jaw chuck to turn the bottom "stem" as shown in the first two photos below. Yet to be done is a little rotary table work to equalize the wall thickness all around the bored hole and then some edge rounding so the whole part becomes more spheroidal as per the plans. The final picture ...somewhat out of place...shows the pump body attached to the engine. The pump still needs the side pieces of flat brass and the protruding studs for the inlet port and the priming cup atachments as well as the hex top nut and gland screw. Getting closer now but still some work to do.



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This weekend I was able to get the bottom eyelets attached to the displacer yoke, made the two fastener needed for attaching it to the actuator and to install the yoke assembly and displacer. Though no major problems were encountered it did take a while to get everything adjusted to where i was happy with the smoothness of the motion. These are shown in the two photos below.





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With that done, I can get back to the pump again, and the first part up was the threaded cap. The turning work was done on the top side in the lathe (photo 1). As I often do for making a hex, the lathe chuck is screwed onto a hex fixture so it can be indexed in the mill vise to cut the six sides in several steps. This fixture along with its 8 sided counterpart were bought from Sherline years back and I use both often to eliminate the need to take a part out of the chuck. Very handy for preserving concentricity.I did have to reverse it for cutting the 1/2"-13 threads on the bottom side and the finished part is shown in the second photo. Finally it is shown atop the pump body in the last photo'



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Almost time to fire her up Bill!!!!

Great updates and pics as usual!!

The nut with the hex is a piece of work! :bow:
Thanks for explaining how you do it! Makes sense now!

Andrew
 
Thanks Dave. Andrew, it shouldn't be too much longer just to try it out. Still have the hot cap to finish too though. Once I get it running, it will all have to be disassembled for cleaning and painting, which i don't normally do but in this case i think it will make the model look more finished. I just didn't have the heart to paint the little Briggs.

Bill
 
Just a belated sign in from another lookenpeeper who's been following the build with his mouth firmly shut.

Nothing I could add to such a great build - can't wait to see it finished.

Ken
 
Ken, thanks for checking in...have to admit I am getting antsy to see it run now too. Hopefully not too much longer.
Bill
 
A tad more progress on the pump parts. First the packing screw which I wasn't happy with until the 3rd try. I had to keep loosening the adjustable die screw because the thread were too tight and being made of brass (bronze on the 3rd try) the slot would get all buggered up just trying to screw it into the top pump nut. Finally with the adjusting screw totally loose the threads cut small enough to screw in more easily. This is shown in photo 1. Second the pump shaft, 5/32" stainless threaded on one end and turned to .090" on the other (photo 2). Not much to show but its been like a sauna out in the garage this week so hard to stay out there for long. More to follow soon though.



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Thanks Frazer, I'm hoping as others have said that it won't take that much heat to get her running, though it is a heavy engine and lots of mass and inertia to overcome even without any binds in the works.
 
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